i havent installed it yet but i have a cav conn t3 turbo kit ,2.5 full exhaust no cat,p/p head,vortech 12;1 fmu,msd inline pump,rear o2 sen is deleted,upper and lower rk eng mounts,rc 195 cc inj,. the car is a 99 2200 witha 3spd auto.let me know what ya think.
13's or blowning it. one way or the other!
No.... 10psi on a stock bottom end is not very safe unless you have very accurate fuel curves in place and/or ignition timing retard in relation to boost. Either fork out the cash for the bottom end build or fork out the cash for the elctronics. If you want to do both, even better. There are always special cases where someone got lucky but no casting is exactly the same and athe different flaws you have compared to someone else is what is going to kill it.
Cardomain|
Myspace
deff not gunna work with that fuel setup. get bigget injectors, a better intake pump (not necessary, but if you wanna do it right, get an intank, not an inline), and better means of controling the fuel rather than an fmu. when you finally do go into all this, start your boost at maybe 3 psi, then work your way up to 10. if you shot just for 10 right away, i have a feeling you're gunna break something fast if it even runs right. just my opinion.
12.6 @ 114.6 MPH
I agree with what ever one says.... and may i suggest you get a knock gauge.. with that you will be able to see when your engine is getting knock as you turn up your boost (knock is what will destroy your engine nicely
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^^^^ A knock gauge is kind of like an idiot light. Once you see it reading a knock, it is already too late. You should spend the money on achieving the correct A/F instead of spending your money on something that will tell you that you don't have the correct A/F, ect....
Cardomain|
Myspace
thanks for the info not what i was hopeing for but i appreciate it the same what do you guys think the max would be with this set up im tapped for cash at the moment.6,7,8 maybe?
13's or blowning it. one way or the other!
what size injector should i use i have afriend who has 2 sets of rc inj one is 310 ,and 440. what size are the brown top inj i hear some people talk about and what car are they out of ?
13's or blowning it. one way or the other!
LGO my eggo (Josh Roberts) wrote:^^^^ A knock gauge is kind of like an idiot light. Once you see it reading a knock, it is already too late. You should spend the money on achieving the correct A/F instead of spending your money on something that will tell you that you don't have the correct A/F, ect....
humm not really.... it goes from a single green (which is just always on) then goes up 3 more green lights, then 4 yellow lights and then the red which is basically when your engine goes boom... so yes you do have time to let off the throttle or turn the car off.
here take a gander for your self, its not like the lights shoot up to the red in 3 seconds (if it does there was no hope for your engine if you got that bad of knock that fast)
The knock sensor on your car is measuring a frequency. That is why it is tripping now and again at idle for the ecotecs with. It is a phezioelectric (sp?) sensor. The actual read-out the sensor is giving you is just as useful to read as a narrow-band o2 sensor would be. It is either a steady A/C voltagewith very short swings or it will be a sudden large swing. There is no in between. You can tell when it is knocking just by hearing it and feeling it. The sensor is only there so the computer knows so that it can throw back timing and try to save the engine. There is no acceptable amount of knock. This really isn;'t something I'm going to argue about. I just got done taking a class on advanced car electronics and we covered knock sensors for about a week more than we should have. I am sick of them
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Cardomain|
Myspace
Oh yah, and the only way you can get away with running that large of an FMU is if you put and adjustable fuel pressure regulator on it and turned base fuel pressure down with some larger injectors. It still isn't near as accurate as an electronically controlled system on a constant fuel pressure would be. I have to agree with shifted. Stick with no more than 5psi. If you really want to hit 13s that bad, throw a nice shot of nitrous on there too and see if you can make a few 13 second passes before you blow the motor up. At least then you have the oportunity to either rebuild the motor or swap in a motor more likely to hit 13s without blowing up.
Cardomain|
Myspace
