I am going to post a DIY on making your own turbo manifold. I am going to use my Pacesetter engine flange, and a Garrett T3/04 Hybrid turbocharger. This should be a fairly simple DIY, you'll need a welder and some exhaust piping and both flanges, Depending on the turbo's, indernal wastegate or not. I will try to have this finished by Saturday. <br>
- JTR
Ive heard u kinda have to be specific with metals used, some crack under the high pressure and heat. Im not sure its quite as easy as u put.
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Well, if you know how to weld, you should know your metal properties. In the DIY it will explain some of that. gimme some more input
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- JTR
You want to use cast steel WELD ELLS They are made for welding underground gas and oil pipe lines. About an 1/8" thick. come in various sizes and radi. I have one constructed for my Eco in the garage
Gregory Spencer wrote:You want to use cast steel WELD ELLS They are made for welding underground gas and oil pipe lines. About an 1/8" thick. come in various sizes and radi. I have one constructed for my Eco in the garage
Sweet can you send me some pics? <br>
- JTR
when building your manifold make sure you bevel and/or gap the pieces properly. Using thick weld ells (which you should) is pointless if your not going to get good penetration on your welds.
id also suggest gtaw because there are so many tights places to weld
its alot of welds in a small area so make sure you cool it slowely by oven/sand/blanket
and get the flanged machined down when your done, itll probably be really crooked. <br>
Good ideas, but already plans I have. I made a "sandbox" for my other projects already. <br>
- JTR
Dan: How many AMPS shuold i use to weld with gtaw (TIG) to get agood penetratiob?
GoZ what are your metal types and thickness'? <br>
- JTR
Gregory Spencer wrote:You want to use cast steel WELD ELLS They are made for welding underground gas and oil pipe lines. About an 1/8" thick. come in various sizes and radi. I have one constructed for my Eco in the garage
Ive been using them for about 2 years for my manifolds.
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They are Weld els with 1/8" thick, and the flanges are 1/2" thick of mild steel.
JTR wrote:I am going to post a DIY on making your own turbo manifold. I am going to use my Pacesetter engine flange, and a Garrett T3/04 Hybrid turbocharger. This should be a fairly simple DIY, you'll need a welder and some exhaust piping and both flanges, Depending on the turbo's, indernal wastegate or not. I will try to have this finished by Saturday.
after buying all of that parts and paying the welder, you could have bought one from a company for better.
GoZ wrote: mild steel.
There is the first problem. Starting off with cheap garbage and you will end up with cheap garbage that wont last for any length of time.
Mild steel is garbage.
exploited's manifolds rock!
The kits would be made assuming you had a welder. Some people would still rather make it themselfs. Me being one of them, i could pay other people to do it. I bought exploiteds manifold. But I did all of the rest myself. <br>
- JTR
I've used schedule 40 pipe to make exhaust manifolds. It's also mild steel, and fairly thick. You can purchase elbows and preformed radii at industrial steel supply houses which sell shedule 40 stair rail parts.
One glaring difference between weld-el and schedule 40 pipe is in the seams. You can purchase shcedule40 pipe with welded seams, but the stair rail sections don't come that way, so they need to be welded. As mentioned above, bevel the edges of butted sections to make a nice Vee for welding.
It might be nice to mention other forms of welding. I have never used, or had access to, a TIG welder. Most of my work is done with a MIG, and occassionally the old SMAW "stick welder."
In my experience, flanges will warp. The thicker they are, the more metal you can machine off to bring them back to flat. Since I've never actually been taught welding, I'd love to hear any suggestions on welding flanges to pipes that will minimize warping. After building a manifold/ header, I'll use a large belt sander, surface grinder, or bridgeport to bring flanges back to flat.
Also, maybe this is a good place to mention a test for steel vs cast iron. I'm thinking that "making your own turbo manifold" might involve portions of a factory manifold or two. One of the great tests involves grinding a portion of the material in question with a 5" electric or air grinder. If you get a shower of yellow-orange sparks that bounce off of anything they touch, you probably have steel. If you get a small spray of red-orange sparks that burn out very quickly after leaving the grinding wheel, you probably have cast iron.
That probably enough for now.
-->Slow
Mild will rust and is not as durable or strong as stainless. Mild wont hold up under heat like stainless either. SCH 40 is usually too thick and very heavy. SCH 10 is better and much lighter. SCH 40 would crack even sooner from the weight in mild steel. If it were stainless you wouldnt need anything more than SCH 10.
Congrats JTR on your manifold and doing the kit yourself.
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Dan: How many AMPS shuold i use to weld with gtaw (TIG) to get agood penetratiob?
not sure man. my gtaw-pipe class isnt for a few more weeks. JTR? <br>
If i remember correct pacesetter uses thiner flanges. When you start welding to the flanges bolt it to the head or a bench. It will help dissipate a lot of the heat and minimize warpage. What kind of header will you be making? Log style or tubular? <br>
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Since I've never actually been taught welding, I'd love to hear any suggestions on welding flanges to pipes that will minimize warping.
Thats exactly what I was going to say, having suffered this myself on my current downpipe flange. Since it didn't fit right to begin with, I had to reweld the entire thing myself and in my welding inexperience, I managed to warp it. I think constructive information about this is crucial to a DIY welding project. <br>
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Try www.jgstools.com they sell weld ells on line and turbo flanges. I clamp my flange to a thick large steel plate and let cool slow but they still warp some.
Also i have TIG but usualy use MIG for manifolds-they deposit larger bead which i never grind off. The weld ells are beveled some on the ends as they come. They are designed for welding. THis is probably not a place to learn to weld, as stated your better off buying a manifold. But if you like to do it yourself -THEN I SAY DO IT. All machines (welding) are a little diff so asking for amperage settings will only get you close.
