I bought an LSJ with supercharger and transmission for an incredible price last fall. I've decided to swap engines after checking the timing, compression, end play on crank etc, so I figure, with the money I had saved up I might as well upgrade the supercharger.

I want at least 250 hp at the wheels.

I was thinking on buying the following parts from ZZPerformance, OEM and classified.
A dual pass end plate,
S3 heat exchanger,
Phenolic spacer,
2.8in pulley.

Here is what I need help with
What size and style of injectors do I need?
Which fuel rail would be better?
I need a new belt tensioner, what would be better with a 2.8in pulley (stock, ZZP adjustable or oversized idler pulley)
What fuel pump should I run, is an F-body or W-body 255gph overkill?
and are my power goals realistic?

If anyone else thinks of anything else I should address, please let me know

Why not just toss the M62 on your L61 or another L61? It'll be easier, less hassle, and you'll make the same power if not more. The L61 has a larger displacement, higher compression, and will take anything a M62 can toss at it.

^ Im behind Tinkles...and Im hoping he's right

Im currently running everything you mentioned with the stock M62, ZZP S3, Dual pass, Option b, 2.8" smoothflow pulley, racetronix 255lph Wbody fuel pump (99.9% same as the fbody), stage 2 SS/SC Cobalt injectors (42.5lb/hr), stage 2 belt, and the SS/SC pulleys (tensioner, idler, alternator, etc).
Im running on a really crappy tune and pulling on a lot of well modded turbo 4 and 6 cylinders and fully bolted/tuned V8's. I have yet to get my hp/tq numbers down, but im not far off that number with a good tune Im sure.

Im about to toss in the parts sitting in my garage; stage 2 cams, dobule valve springs, meth, LS1 tb, ported M62 and im sure im going to be maxed out for this poor little 200k mile L61 block. Im guessing ill be close to 280-300fwhp fully tuned.

Im with Tinkles...keep the L61 and just build on it smartly. Your goal is easy and safer than my build cause im playing with fire on stock rods. 250 is a very respectable whp number and power:weight you'll pull on a lot more than you'd expect.


04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.

If you do go the route of swapping in the whole LSJ, just remember you'll need to run an external CKP/trigger wheel setup, and some minor things like blocking off the exhaust cam sensor boss, and either bypassing the oil cooler or modifying the LSJ thermo housing to fit (it will shift cable bracket), and a few odds and ends. I'm all for the swap, though I may be partial since that's what I'm currently running. The LSJ has a much more favorable rod/stroke ratio for the blower, and after running the blower on my L61 and LSJ, and I can definitely say there is a noticeable difference in the LSJ's quickness to rev,

On the other hand, if you're just worried about making 250 hp and done...then strap the m62 onto your stock L61, pulley down with the 2.8 and call it a day. You may also want to seriously consider meth injection if you're going to pulley down so small.

Injector size depends on a few things, such as if you do go with a Racetronix pump, and if you want room to grow in the future. Most of run the F or W body racetronix pump, and no, it's not overkill..it's great to have with the boosted setup. If you go racetronix, then you should only need 42-47# injectors. Just keep in mind you want to size your injectors so you don't use more than 80% of their duty cycle. RC Injectors has a handy calculator on their site. I'm running 60's with a racetronix and it's severely overkill...I only have them due to starting out on a stock pump...had I started out with the racetronix pump, I would've went with 47s. I use the 03+ fuel rail. Injector style depends on the rail...if you run a, 02 rail I beleive you need the stubby injectors...if you run 03+ you need the longer injectors. Ford color tops work, or most Seimens, RC, etc, I run the Seimens pencil style.

With the small pulley, I'd go with ZZP adjustable tensioner...for the price it's pretty much a no brainer.

What's your plan for tuning? HPT?

My plan was to run the blower on the L61, but at around 244xxx km I F-up my head and I can`t find a low mileage 2.2, so I want to attempt the swap. I have the trigger wheel on order. My power goals are just a number really, the more I can get out the better. I don't remember the screen name or the post but there was a guy with a blue cavalier that was running a similar setup as what I want to do and IIRC he was putting down 275 at the wheels. The above upgrades are just to have a fun running car. Meth injection, LS1 T/B and cams, etc are upgrades I'm reading about and I might do them later on. As for the tuning I'm going to go a dyno.

the dyno isnt a tuning option, its just a tool they'll use to help dial in your setup to get the most efficient power out of it. street tuning is important too. but you can tune without even touching a dyno..its just nice to know where you're at and just make sure you keep the dyno you use consistent.

I went with trifecta, but the cams and parts i mentioned above are very iffy on Vinces tune. not because he CANT do it, but because of the availability and easy of access to getting live tunes to dial it all in perfectly. Even this it'll be guess work on some of it. My cav is my dd despite having other vehicles. I dont want it down for 5 months. Say you drop in the cams and meth and other parts that need carefully calculated fuel/air timing and he cant get it dialed in right..you gotta take all that crap out or go find another tuning option. which is where im at now. do i risk it and be patient and take another year to get it dialed in? or do i just suck it up, sell the parts, never know my potential, and just drive my dd blown cav until it breaks?


04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.

I meant I was going to go to a tuning shop.

Would a long tube header be worth it? or should I just slap a pacesetter on it? Either i'm putting new exhaust pipes all the way.

I dont think you'd see much difference in the two. Im happy with my lsj pacesetter into a custom bent 2.5" stainless system.

SilvrSunfir wrote:I meant I was going to go to a tuning shop.

Becareful, not alot of tuning shops can properly tune our cars.

EVILution (KGMs FrankenCav) wrote:I dont think you'd see much difference in the two. Im happy with my lsj pacesetter into a custom bent 2.5" stainless system.

same here. i got the larger pace setter armor coated one thats for the LSJs, has the larger primaries on it. good quality and it sounds great with my custom 2.5" set up, prob a lot like evils


04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.

What would be my limiting factor for the rev limiter, with a 2.8 pulley, balance shaft delete and stock LSJ valve train. If it matters I have both phenolic spacers, dual pass end plate and S3 H/E, 50 lbs seimeins injectors and an adjustable tensioner.

With stock valvetrain id keep it at or below 7000.

Would upgrading to 78 lbs be a smart move? Im hoping to have the redline somwhere between 7000-7500 rpms

yup...if you want to rev it..its always a good idea to atleast upgrade your springs.

you'll want to make sure you upgrade the fuel pump running the 2.8 on those injectors. although the injectors are big enough for the power level you're hoping to attain, the stock fuel pump can't supply the fuel enough to take true advantage of the bigger injectors.

are you planning on running the l61 or lsj bottom end to rev that high? if you're using the complete lsj, I believe 7200 rpm should be fine on the stock components. (stage 2 cars I believe rev that high) I wouldn't take a stock bottom end l61 much over 7k though... even with upgraded valve springs.

I could`ve sworn I had replied earlier. I new I was going to forget to list something haha, I do have a racetronix 255 gph f-body pump and harness, I received the supertech 78lbs springs today and I have JE forged pistons on the way.

I want to keep it it 3rd gear for at least a quarter mile, so I`ll built it right while the engine's out instead of doing it twice.

I'm just unsure how to break it all in at once (brand new clutch, low mile valve train and pistons but new ring, new rod and new crank bearing) and at the same time tune it.