After doing some searching on here on what plug works and whats the best I found that in recent years alot are using the NGK's.

NGK LTR5IX-11------is stock
NGK LTR6IX-11------one stage colder
NGK LTR7IX-11------two stage colder

Now im having a hard time finding what plugs people with the supercharger is actually using and what gaps are recommended.

Im assuming the one stage colder for me and maybe a .40 gap would work from my reading.

I am running the gm flash, stock pulley, no H/E. If it matters I am at sea level and Canada so its cooler.

Plans for the spring include H/E setup, 3.1 pulley and a header on the reflash if it factors into plug choice.

Car currently has stock plugs at stock gap and has 105xxx km

im running the NGK LTR7IX-11 full mods can be found in my profile. DO NOT gap the plugs. the tips are too fine and you could end up breaking them off. right on the NGK website the tell you not to gap them.

alex priggen wrote:im running the NGK LTR7IX-11 full mods can be found in my profile. DO NOT gap the plugs. the tips are too fine and you could end up breaking them off. right on the NGK website the tell you not to gap them.

i ran the same plugs when i had my m62 setup, 3.1 pulley, reflash, cxracing h/e. i left them at the gap they were when they came out of the box.

alex priggen wrote:im running the NGK LTR7IX-11 full mods can be found in my profile. DO NOT gap the plugs. the tips are too fine and you could end up breaking them off. right on the NGK website the tell you not to gap them.

This came off the faq on NGK

FAQs - Spark Plugs

Q: Do I need to set the "gap" when installing a new set of plugs?

A: Maybe. A spark plug part number might fit hundreds of different engines from many different manufacturers. Although the NGK factory will set the gap to a pre-selected setting, this may not be the right gap for your particular engine. The incorrect plug gap for your engine can contribute to a high rate of misfires, loss of power, plug fouling, poor fuel economy, and accelerated plug wear. It is always best to check the gap against the manufacturer's specifications. If adjusting the gap on fine wire or precious metal plugs such as platinum or iridium be very careful not to apply any pressure or prying force to the fine wire center electrode or insulator as they can be damaged. The gap should be adjusted by only moving the ground electrode.

Another consideration that should be taken into account is the extent of any modifications that you may have made to the engine. As an example, when you raise compression or add forced induction (a turbo system, nitrous or supercharger kit) you must reduce the gap (about .004" for every 50 hp you add). However, when you add a high power ignition system (such as those offered by MSD, Crane, Nology) you can open the gap from .002-.005".

Ill grab a set and try them at the stock gap and go from there.

I always like to check the gap on plugs though with a feeler gauge so I don't hurt the electrode because they usually don't come all the same. Or atleast for me they haven't lol.

I have the 6's. I have gapped and re-gapped them without issues (to .032). If you have proper tools and skills gapping shouldn't be a problem.

alex priggen wrote:im running the NGK LTR7IX-11 full mods can be found in my profile. DO NOT gap the plugs. the tips are too fine and you could end up breaking them off. right on the NGK website the tell you not to gap them.

I disagree with this. I have ALWAYS gapped mine, never broke a single tip. They all came at the .038-.040... I run mine at .028-.030.

Wouldnt that be a little to small for me vince since im just supercharged?

I will be gapping them I just dont know the desired range for the supercharger.

Looks like ill be getting the 2 step colder plugs and closing the gap.....but to what..lol

for you id run .035-.037 to start and see how that runs. I imagine that will be pretty good.

I would look in to even seeing if you NEED 2 steps colder. I know quite a few SC guys that only run one...

^^...Hence the thread...

And why I listed my current setup and future plans for the spring.

BuiltNBoosted wrote:

alex priggen wrote:im running the NGK LTR7IX-11 full mods can be found in my profile. DO NOT gap the plugs. the tips are too fine and you could end up breaking them off. right on the NGK website the tell you not to gap them.

I disagree with this. I have ALWAYS gapped mine, never broke a single tip. They all came at the .038-.040... I run mine at .028-.030.

that is what i read on there website the other day and for the life of me i cant find it now. Also i was watching the power block on spike last weekend and they featured the iridium ix plugs and they too said not to gap them. just stating what i heard.

We installed NGK stock number#3787 on the supercharged Eco I helped build recent. They come pre gapped at .032.

They are also known as ILTR6A-8G's. They cost slightly more, but work really well.

I had some emails with NGK about gapping. They said you shjould not re-gap any of there plugs more than .006 + or - from the stock gap they come.

So if it comes at a .044 you would not want to go any lower than .038, or any higher than .050.

They said doing so will cause the grounding strap to break.

This is why we went with the 3787's.



FU Tuning

I've been running the LTR6IX-11...3.1 pulley, 60# injectors, h/e, and HP Tuners. Using them with the gap they come in, no issues.

I believe thats what im going to go with...now to see if our local place has a set for me.

This is why you use copper plugs- gap them however you want and they aren't going to break. All that Iridium/platinum/2 prong/4 prong stuff is just a marketing gimmick and half the time nets poorer performance. How much gap you need depends on boost/horsepower level. On my car running 15 psi I was getting what felt like an ignition cut/rev limiter under WOT, found the plugs were gapped at damn near .055". Gapped them down to .028" like I used to run my 1.8T at and it's been smooth running ever since.



Arrival Blue 04 LS Sport
Eco
Turbo
Megasquirt
'Nuff said

I get spark blow out at .040 gap, but I do have a very small ring on the blower. I gapped mine down, but I did it right and knew what I was doing. It is very easy to @!#$ up the electrode if you dont.


1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by: Kronos Performance

WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer

I think people are just getting to be too much of pansy's when it comes to plugs.... just gap them, if you break one...buy another. Its a spark plug.

Yeah but its an 8 dollar spark plug.


1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by: Kronos Performance

WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer

Ya thats why we tell people that you can gap them, however you should use a wire style or feeler guage. The firing electrode of the Iridiums are a 0.6mm style, so if you were to use a ramp style gapper it would pry against the 0.6mm firing eletrode.

Answering Leafy's question . I hear this everyday when people call up and say that the plug that we reccommend is 8 bucks a peice, sparkplugs are what everyone wants to cheap out on, regardless of the financial investment that they have in the engine. We get someone that has.... say a 14 to 1 static and a 200 shot of nitrous. We give them a spark plug that has a low angle ground electrode and a 0.4mm projection. So this style plug runs about 90.00 per plug, so they do not listen to the reccommendation and go buy a regular style plug and burn the end off and it winds up as a damage claim on my desk. For this reason there are things that we reccommend doing things a certain way, such as gapping, for a while the myth was " you cannot gap a Iridium plug".

If you are breaking tips on a plug while gaping, you really don't know what you're doing.
Running 0.050'' with S/Cer. Runs perfect, on copper, platinum, iridium.



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-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----

Right, its aout knowing what style gapping tool to use on the finewires.

Although I do talk to about 15 people a day that do not know this.

Speaking of those ramp style. I felt like a complete dick in autozone the other day. I was getting 2 new front calipers (@!#$ 16 bucks a piece, at that price I'll replace them every brake job) and my 2 friends who drove me there were looking at the ramp style trying to figure out how they made it and if it could actually hold the tolerance needed to be somewhat close to what the markings on the gauge say. We think they're stamped by the way and that they're ok. I'll stick with my precision ground feeler gauges though.


1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by: Kronos Performance

WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer

Ya the interesting part is that the only thing you can use that for on a fine wire style is where it looks like it goes on a keyring, that is actually for opening the gap. It prys against the outter shell instead of the center firing electrode.

Leafy (Club Jeffie FEA man) wrote:Yeah but its an 8 dollar spark plug.

and a $7,000 engine... Ill piss away $8 on a spark plug to save that engine. You bet your ass I will. Ill not go out to eat for a week to make up for the amount I waste on spark plugs.

Thats good boosted, we need more poeple like you on the phone during the day that understand this. It would make my day a lot easier!!