Any tips on this stupid belt tensioner. I have everything else done except I cant get the belt tensioner to budge. Do I need to loosen the botls or something?
Did you grind the nub off the head? My guess would be that the tensioners hitting that
For an SC eco setup?
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2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
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How does yours move so easy? I wonder if I installed the wrong bolt it the middle...
Jason Sneed wrote:How does yours move so easy? I wonder if I installed the wrong bolt it the middle...
did u grind the head how you were supposed to?
Yeah I ground off the place where the old engine hook was. it's got clearance there. It takes so much pressure its going to strip that notch on top you use a 15 mm wrench on. I saw a picture on crate engines and the tensioner looked like it had a hex bolt in the middle that keeps the 2 pieces together can anyone confirm this, because I def have a normal 13 mm bolt in there.
Not a hex bolt in the middle but a torx. Is what I saw on crate depot. I know the upper one is a allen type
well I'm convinced someone sold me a ghetto rigged tensioner. I'm stuck at home watching my daughter right now. Anyone know the size of that bolt that holds the 2 pieces of the tensioner together?
I've always used a pry bar to move my tensioner, they do have alot of tensioner and I almost rounded the nub with a 15mm to
Yeah I look like I do it easy but the initial force is quite high. There's a good bit of body weight going into pushing that down.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
I do not think it matters if you have a allen, or a torx or just a 13mm bolt in that hole.
regardless it is a known fact the LJS tensioner is a pain in the ass to do. Go on cobaltss.net and you can read plenty of pleople having issues with it.
We used some vise grips. Others use a prybar.
It is really a crappy design.
FU Tuning
Its not a crappy design. With a pry bar its super easy to do, WAY easier than the stock l61 setup.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
I'm positive its was due to the wrong bolt being used in the middle of the tensioner. It was going through the tensioner and it came out the other side and was stuck. I need to figure out what size bolt to get to replace it... I guess thats what I get for buying used parts.
Leafy (Club Jeffie FEA man) wrote:Its not a crappy design. With a pry bar its super easy to do, WAY easier than the stock l61 setup.
Thing is it was not designed to use a prybar on it, but a wrench. When you use a wrench you end up rounding it off. So yes crappy design.
I like the idea behind it but crappy.
I will take a stock L61 anyday over this one.
FU Tuning
So I bought a new tensioner off of crateengines.com It was $150 shipped and will be here tomorrow just in case I can't find the right bolt. I'm going to think 2x about buying used crap again!
I'm thinking whoever had it had the zzp adjustable tensioner on it and lost the original bolt.
Bought a 1/2 drive breaker made it 1000000000x easier you rock leafy!
