Well after years of yerning for a GMPP S/C kit, I obtained one. I installed it and ran into some small problems that were eventually overcome. But after I got it to start I saw SPARKS flying out from the passenger side. I look and see that I know have another problem, a big one at that.
These are the current big issues:
1.) The supercharger pulley is rubbing against the upper hydraulic tensioner bolt (better said the washher), and
2.) The groves on the supercharger pulley and hydraulic tensioner pulley are not matching up!
So I ask if anyone else has had a similar problem. Is there any adjustment to move the charger over? I already pulled the intake manifold, manifold support bracket, hydraulic tensioner, generator and bracket to see if there is any play, but it is so small it made no difference. Any ideas or tips as to how to resolve this issue?
Why is that engine hoist bracket still in there? you have to remove that to install the kit, its in the damn instructions. Also did you file that little bit off your head that's in the instructions too?
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
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WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
Leafy wrote:Why is that engine hoist bracket still in there? you have to remove that to install the kit, its in the damn instructions. Also did you file that little bit off your head that's in the instructions too?
Im guessing that it isnt an actually pic of his engine.....
A phenolic S/C spacer and a smaller S/C pulley will help. Is there are washer/spacer behind the tensioner?
its an old concept. time for something new to take the reigns. - Z yaaaa
I'm guess it is since those two things I mentioned are the only things I can think of that could possibly be causing this issue.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
It sounds like he forgot to grind down the tab by the factory enging hoist bracket..That would space out the tensioner.
That is correct Tinkles, it is not a pic of my engine. It is night time in AZ so a pic wouldn't show up good right now.
Now if you are all talking about the little head boss on the passenger side of the head that, if left ungrounded will hit the hydraulic tensioner, yes I did grind sufficiently and there is no interaction what so ever.
The problem (better explained) is that the back of the supercharger pulley is hitting the washer part of the hydraulic tensioner upper bolt (as hopefully shown in the image link to my Facebook). On top of that the grooves in both pulleys do not match up at all. Where one has a valley the other has a ridge and the belt sits crooked.
Now I slightly solved the the rubbing problem by grinding dpwn the spacer on the tensioner, but the pulley grooves still don't match up.
Tinkles: I was considering taking the charger off, removing the pulley and putting a washer, but I figured that it shouldn't of been necessary, plus I hear that I need the special puller. Originally I wanted to put a smaller 3.1 pulley, but had decided to wait. As for "a phenolic S/C wahser", not sure what you meant (phenolic = big word, lol).
Ok so, something about your tensioner bracket makes it not line up. I'm going to guess that it is further away from the engine than you want it.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
Well it actually appeara that the tensioner is lined up with the idler and alternator, but the s/c is what is too far in. I'll double check which way it is right now.
Okay, I checked and it is definately the s/c. Everything else lines up, but if you look at the pulley on the s/c you can tell right awat that it is way too close in.
Jesus Jacobo wrote:Well it actually appeara that the tensioner is lined up with the idler and alternator, but the s/c is what is too far in. I'll double check which way it is right now.
If thats the case then the s/c pulley must have been pushed further in on the snout than it should have been and pulling it out a tad with the puller would be the fix.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
Leafy wrote:Jesus Jacobo wrote:Well it actually appeara that the tensioner is lined up with the idler and alternator, but the s/c is what is too far in. I'll double check which way it is right now.
If thats the case then the s/c pulley must have been pushed further in on the snout than it should have been and pulling it out a tad with the puller would be the fix.
If that is the case, then I need to get that expensive special pulley puller from ZZP. I thought the bolt held the s/c pulley down and tightening it would push it in anyways.
Leafy wrote:If thats the case then the s/c pulley must have been pushed further in on the snout than it should have been and pulling it out a tad with the puller would be the fix.
You were right Leafy. I took the s/c to the shop and the tech and I saw that it had been griding away at the snout plus it wobbles. A little hard to turn also.
If its wobbly you might need a rebuild. IF so make sure you buy the ZZP sc coupler and not the eaton one.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
Leafy wrote:If its wobbly you might need a rebuild. IF so make sure you buy the ZZP sc coupler and not the eaton one.
It was wobbling because it was crooked. I find it hard to believe that it needs to be rebuilt if the supercharger is brand new out of the box. But yes, I would definately replace it with the ZZP coupler if I had to. The tech and I managed to pull it out a little and straighten it out so now it turns smoothly and easily, but it is still slightly crooked. I am going to see if anybody in AZ near the Phoenix Metro area might have the s/c pulley puller I can borrow/rent.
Didnt know it was bnib, Hopefully you dont need a new pulley (well always can go smaller).
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
just order the zzp MPS and rent the puller lol you will want to go smaller than stock anyway
Well note to self: Do Not Grind the Tensioner Upper Bolt Washer. It will most likely grind through and alllow the washer to break off leaving the tensioner free to wobble back and fro.
Had it running all nice and neat on Thursday and when I looked under to check for leaks I saw a washer. I thought, "I wonder where the hell this washer goes?" Picked it up, turned it over and saw the grinded part! Immediately looked up and saw Mr. Tensioner moving in and out of the upper bolt location. Yay! >:o
So know i need the hydraulic tensioner ummm...black thing where you push down on it.
Other than that she is up and running and just needs a flash.
So you mean the pulley or what, thats the only black thing on there that I cant think of besides the boot for the piston. Good luck getting a pulley, I guess you got get the oversized one from ottp but then you'd need to go buy a stock ss belt and not stage 2.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
Jesus Jacobo wrote:
So know i need the hydraulic tensioner ummm...black thing where you push down on it.
If the piston is fine then i recommend picking up ZZP's adjustable tensioner. You can only get the full assembly(tensioner, pulley, and piston) from the dealer for ~$200.
its an old concept. time for something new to take the reigns. - Z yaaaa
Tinkles wrote:Jesus Jacobo wrote:
So know i need the hydraulic tensioner ummm...black thing where you push down on it.
If the piston is fine then i recommend picking up ZZP's adjustable tensioner. You can only get the full assembly(tensioner, pulley, and piston) from the dealer for ~$200.
Yeah, that's what i'm planning on doing.
Btw Leafy, it's that adjustable tensioner that ZZP sells that I need replaced.
