hey guys,
i went to the track this past weekend and only ran a 15.3 with the GMPP S/C, header full exhaust, poly CA bushings, and both motor mounts and slicks. last year when i raced (almost exactly a year ago) with nothing but the S/C and my street tires i ran a 15.2.
I dont know whats going on but it doesnt seem to have the pull it did a year ago. and ideas?
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I think i found the culprit!.....You're using an Eco....
in all honesty, i have no clue, i just wanted to get an Eco stab in there, have a nice day
What the crap? Ecos run that all motor. What the hell did you do??!! LOL.
i dont know man. it just doesnt have the gitty up and go anymore i didnt touch a thing just added them onto it
M62 KIT for sale PM ME
I got the same ride went 15.3 stock.. lol the ecos get it son... You got a mess of problems if your running that bad after all the mods.. Are you tuned man? and hows the wideband read if you have one... i turboed mine and had similar problems all due to my tune....
im jsut running the gm flash. at wot im anywheres from 10.0-10.3
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You have no business with slicks if you run in the 15's. Seeing stupid @!#$ like this makes me embarassed to own a jbody.
FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!
WOW! That is very rich... you are losing tons of power with that AFR... how much boost are you running? i would recommend getting a smaller pulley like the rest of the s/c guys... the additional air will allow your AFR to increase to a point where you actually make power... or if you have an adjustable FPR turn your fuel pressure down slightly... run it at WOT to see what it runs... adjust the fuel as many times as you need to get your AFR to at least 11.5 but try getting it to 11.8-12.0 that will yield optimum power...
...I am the BEST at what I do...
"I guess your right[BlueBoost]. Me and my slow car are failers."
Wade Jarvis wrote:You have no business with slicks if you run in the 15's. Seeing stupid @!#$ like this makes me embarassed to own a jbody.
not to be a dink but i have all the business to run slicks if it want to.
the point of this thread was to see if anyone could help me with what my problem may be, not any smart assed unreliviant comments like yours. of course i wasnt planning on running 15's hence why i brought them. and if your embarassed GTFO of the j-body world and get a different car.
im at about 11 psi at wot. no i dont have a adjustable fpr. thats on my winter mod list. among many other things
M62 KIT for sale PM ME
Ya dude that guys got a prob with everyone hahaha. Sad part is and mistake me if im wrong, but that cavi is supercharged and running worst times than you.... like i said correct me if im wrong could be another cavi... Anyway ya your running wayyyy to rich... like i said i got the same ride as you man, just turbo.. im running at 8psi but im using hptuners. if i were you i would get one of those cables and buy some credits from hp.... honestly im kinda stumped if that doesn't work..
I have a strong feeling its in your tune. My car didn't start running right until I got it lean out past 10.5:1 and even then I was loosing a good amount of power.
As for the slicks, I think they can be usful depending on your 60ft. Last year on my street tires (225/50/16) I was only pulling 2.4 60fts and I couldn't get the thing off the line at all. I ran a 15.0 last year with a 2.4 60ft and if I had some decent tires I would have definately been the 14's.
Anyways...Aaron, I think you should definately try and see Danny sometime, he fixed up my tune and my car is finally running good. He knows his stuff and has good prices too. Whenever I get my new car I will definately be going to him to tune it, I'd trust him with anything even though he specializes in hondas.
if your running 10 a/f on the gm tune, and cant retune, drop the pulley size to a 3.1" and gto from there
A compression test wouldnt hurt.
Tinkles
2003 Cavalier 1SV
Bagged and Blown
Tinkles wrote:A compression test wouldnt hurt.
I agree. Even at 10.00 afr, you still shouldnt be running that slow. My heavy ass GrandAm with the M45 kit ran 10.00afr a 15.6 in the quarter.
But yes, Id start with downsizing the pulley. Do you have the intercooler setup?
The slicks might even be hurting your times.
What plugs do you have and how many miles on them?
Air filter?
Aftermarket cat? Possibly clogged?
im gonna do a compression test on it and a leak down test to see.
i have the intercooler set up im just waiting for my pump to come in.
i pulled a 15.4 with my street tires.
i have ngk 7ix-11
im using a aem air filter that came with my CAI
i think the cat may be clogged been smelling rotten egg for a bit. might have to change it.
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Did you just change the plugs this year. I think the 7's might be a heat range too cold, esp. with the gm tune.
Also, my 13.8 run was done on 215/55/16's sumitumo htr's. Just some cheap tire. No problems with traction.
total blackout wrote:im gonna do a compression test on it and a leak down test to see.
i have the intercooler set up im just waiting for my pump to come in.
i pulled a 15.4 with my street tires.
i have ngk 7ix-11
im using a aem air filter that came with my CAI
i think the cat may be clogged been smelling rotten egg for a bit. might have to change it.
OK I will be nice this time.
This thread is pointless because your track times really don't mean much. There are soooo many variables that play into your 1/4 mile time.
Yet from what you have posted you think something is wrong with your car because of the times it ran. Unless you have noticed other problems for example CEL, missfire, hesitation, etc then there may be nothing even wrong with your car. You jumped the gun on asking as what is wrong with your car. Don't come in here asking what is wrong with such a broad description of the situation especially when you have not even done some of the most basic things to determine IF there even is a problem. IE compression test.
Next up the whole bad cat thing. A bad cat is the most commonly blamed problem by people who don't know shtt. The rotten egg smell is caused by sulfer in the gas not by the cat going bad. It is perfectly normal to smell it from time to time and it does not really mean that there is anything wrong with the gas either. Besides how exactly is your cat going tobe clogged if you have done "full exhaust".
FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!
Run champion copper plugs that are made for the SRT-4.... They are cheap and do the job... I am telling you that taking out fuel is what you need to do... so buy an Aeromotive adjustable FPR from SMG dial your AFR's in... also invest in a catless system or a cut-out for the track... and call it a day... I personally guarantee that you will run at least a 14 second pass....
...I am the BEST at what I do...
"I guess your right[BlueBoost]. Me and my slow car are failers."
Do not try, as suggested, to correct your AFR with an AFPR or smaller pulley. Your computer does not moniter fuel pressure; if you get a leaner AFR from an AFPR or a smaller pulley it would only be because your IDC is pegged. Also, do not run SRT-4 plugs; they are too long and will cause the chances of detonation to increase.
The plugs you are running are fine, but at your power level the 6's may work a smidge better.
As suggested the tune has a lot to do with it, whether it be rich AFR's or a lot of timing being pulled due to high IAT's due to no cooling. A comp test will tell you a lot.
Quote:
do not run SRT-4 plugs; they are too long and will cause the chances of detonation to increase.
yeah... srt-4 and L61's use the same length plugs (reach) 1" or .984"... good try though... how about instead of stating your "i thinks"... you state a fact... FACT: SRT-4 plugs work perfectly fine for an L61engine... also detonation has to due with the heat range of the plug not the reach... and actually you will experience pre-ignition before you see detonation... but it can lead to this...
Quote:
Do not try, as suggested, to correct your AFR with an AFPR or smaller pulley. Your computer does not moniter fuel pressure; if you get a leaner AFR from an AFPR or a smaller pulley it would only be because your IDC is pegged.
Uh wow... based on your statement... a rising rate FMU does nothing and is pointless... you also state that an adjustable FPR cannot change the AFR... you are on crack... Increasing the fuel pressure will increase the amount of fuel that is sent into the combustion chamber by the injector... also... decreasing the pressure decreases the amount of fuel... its really not rocket science... thats like saying turning up the boost pressure on a boosted engine will not increase the amount of air entering the comb chamber... you can fine tune the AFR with an AFPR i do it all the time... if you dont believe me.... just try it out...
...I am the BEST at what I do...
"I guess your right[BlueBoost]. Me and my slow car are failers."
^When I was referencing the plugs it was the NGK's like he is using. Look it up; the reach is 1mm longer if I recall correctly. Copper plugs suck; they are cheap for a reason.
FMU is different than AFPR of course. The stock FPR is rising rate; 1:1, and so is an AFPR. Yes, if you up the base pressure you will get more fuel at the highest range of your IDC. The rest of the time (cruising, non PE, etc) the amount of fuel will not change if you are in closed loop, and using a factory narrowband as the OP is. An FMU can give more fuel at WOT, but it makes no difference if your injectors/pump can't properly handle it. Lowering the pressure is an act in futility.
Yes, he needs to "take fuel out", but in his situation the only non-bandaid way to do it is with a tune.
Jesus... This is like speaking to a child that doesn't understand english... the pcm can adjust closed loop fuel ratios... that i am well aware of.... but at WOT its a different story...
Quote:
im jsut running the gm flash. at wot im anywheres from 10.0-10.3
So he is saying at WOT he is rich and already has a tune... the GM reflash and last time i checked... you cannot get into the LOCKED pcm once its flashed... so based on your statement
Quote:
An FMU can give more fuel at WOT
Congrats you proved my statement correct... lower the initial pressure with an adjustable FPR and call it a day... a lot of people have had similar problems with the gm tune running too rich due to the stock FPR keeping the fuel pressure too high... The initial fuel pressure needs to be turned down and everything will be fine... I seriously wish i could just go over there and do it myself to prove to you that you still have no clue what you are talking about... Keep in mind I HAVE the Gm Reflash and an adjustable FPR on my cavalier... I am not posting on this anymore... i have given the way to solve the "lack of power" issue... I have proved my point and from here out it will just be intelligence vs ignorance...
...I am the BEST at what I do...
"I guess your right[BlueBoost]. Me and my slow car are failers."
BlueBoost, would you recommend an AFPR or FMU that would work best overall for both turbocharged and supercharged applications regardless if using the GM reflash or not?
My ecotec cavy is superchraged as of now but i might go turbo later on down the road, but im unsure of what to use so i can fine tune the fuel going into my car, i know bigger injectors and a higher flow fuel pump are a must but thats all i know lol.
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