I finally have my motor running on the correct timing. Ive had it for a while, but it was leaking threw the pan and I only had a down pipe. I had an exhaust put on a couple of weeks ago, and I just finished the pan yesterday (Properly). so as now Im trying to tidy a few things up and start hitting boost.
However Im having some concearns.
for starters im blowing white smoke at start up, now normally I would just say that this is acceptable blow by due to the forged pistons getting up to temp, but because of what my oil pressure guage showed me im not sure. Im afraid I might of F'd some @!#$ up due to a low oil pressure concearn, that was caused by a chunk of my pan blocking my pickup. the guage slowly sank down little by little until it stuck at like 1-5 It was right beofre I shut it off, and I only let it go for a minute or two to try and let the car cool down and bring the viscosity of the oil back up. Im going to have to pull my pan valve cover and take alook at my cams. the car does not make any abnorml noise and the only real sign would be the white smoke at idel. does any one eles have any suggestions pertaining?
other then that things seem to be running right, Im going to get a video of it this weekend. and let you guys tell me what you think.
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Kick azz is my boost hero!!! "
I know my oil psi after i've been driving for a while is right between 10-15psi at the port on the head. Under normal driving it's about 30psi or so, I don't pay too much attention to it now though. I know I glance at it every now and then. As for the white smoke, not sure on that one, mine didn't puff at all on startup, a very very slight amount of white but nothing to get all worried about, she's clean as a whistle now.
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4 Cams...32 Valves...5 Liters...This Could Get Fun!
How white is the smoke? White smoke is coolant burning, oil would be blueish and overly rich would be black, but if its pure white its coolant not oil
208whp 239wtq
13.7 @ 102mph 2.19 60'
I cant seem to understand why I forget that white is coolant.
its going away as of today I havent seen it. even at start up, so will see. as for the oil pressure things seem to be ok. the needle is staying level, at around 10 to 15 idle 20 crusie. but it keeps sinking the longer I drive? Im still not sure. My freind says its most likely the guage, and he backed it up with a good point. if I were any where near as low as the guage had showed, I would of had an oil pressure light come on. Ive yet to see it.
other then that I need to fix a small leak and hook up my MS and Im good. ill keep you guys informed
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Kick azz is my boost hero!!! "
a brand new motor will burn some oil during the ring seat in... mine did, my buddy kyle's did, drapers did... it's just the rings seating in
LE61T PTE6262 Powered
Check out your oil pump, mine just grenaded on me on the side of the road on my way to Indy. My oil press now never goes below 18 or so, back to where it was before the engine build.
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4 Cams...32 Valves...5 Liters...This Could Get Fun!
your oil pressures should be higher then that, most stock ecotecs run much higher oil pressures then what your seeings, granted yours is built but you still shouldnt be seeing pressures that low,
Oil lights are deffinently not something to rely on, they tipically come on when its already to late.
At the least I would check your pump out like Skunk said to.
208whp 239wtq
13.7 @ 102mph 2.19 60'
The problem is, that theres really nothing to check out. the whole pump assembly is two gearotor assembly. driven by the flap spot on the crank pulley. its as basic as a pump can get.
heres what Im thinking and I need some input on this.
1. my gauge is absolute trash. its a sunpro pepboys special, with a cheap plastic line running threw bends.
2. its being veiwed know where near the stock pressure sensor sending unit.
3. its sharing a home with my sending unit for my turbo
4. there was nothing but air in the damn line running to the guage
5. the pressures dont make any sense at all. 0 oil pressure at the head???
Im going to try and confirm the crap guage by pulling the vavle cover and checking cam where if there not torn to shreds then theres know way the guage is correct.
as of now Ive removed the guage. Im sick of having crap parts on my car. if it cant carry its own wait its gone. the only problem is know I dont know my oil pressure. but If I havent poped yet, I should be ok for a little while.
I am however not going to leave it at that, im going to see if I can tap my stock sending unit, and get a signal for MY megasquirt, and if to the squirt then at least for a good eltrical guage. I refuse to run blind of my cars blood pressure.
what do you guys think?
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Kick azz is my boost hero!!! "
Oil psi is certainly one of THE most important things to have correct as it can cause the most damage very rapidly. The ONLY time I see oil PSI as low as 18 psi is when its 110 degrees ambient air temps and I have been driving for some time and @ idle. Even the sunpro gauge should be able to give you an idea of where you are but worse come to worse the sunpro is easy enough to obtain that I would probably grab another one from autozone or something and give it a shot IF you think the gauge is at fault. Typically the air in the gauge line will disappear after a minute once started. Otherwise air in the oil tube to the gauge is normal.
ASE Master Certified Automotive Technician
NotsoOceansideEco wrote:your oil pressures should be higher then that, most stock ecotecs run much higher oil pressures then what your seeings, granted yours is built but you still shouldnt be seeing pressures that low,
The built vs stock factor really has anything to do with oil pressure differences in this case as most stock ecotecs dont come equipped with turbo's before I put the turbo'd the old motor I'd make 40-50 psi always, no less. but then once the turbo took over it dropped to 20ish at cruise and 10 at idle. (5W30)
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cavmania wrote:NotsoOceansideEco wrote:your oil pressures should be higher then that, most stock ecotecs run much higher oil pressures then what your seeings, granted yours is built but you still shouldnt be seeing pressures that low,
The built vs stock factor really has anything to do with oil pressure differences in this case as most stock ecotecs dont come equipped with turbo's before I put the turbo'd the old motor I'd make 40-50 psi always, no less. but then once the turbo took over it dropped to 20ish at cruise and 10 at idle. (5W30)
yeah mine did too.... I even changed the sensor location 2 or 3 times and it never changed
LE61T PTE6262 Powered
well my oil leak is compleatly gone (so's the gauge )Im not leaking oil and the cars running great...........
except for a small mech knock. yeah theres always a catch. I don't have any idea where its coming from. its deffintly upper motor. so the valve cover is first. I need to pull gap and retorque the plugs. so it works out any way. im going to take some picks of my cam wear, if theres no vieable damage then the side cover is gonna have to come off. (im almost hoping to find riped up cams or even a poped rocker, I really dont want to take off the side cover.) other then that what could it be?
the only other thing I could think is a mech tap of metal on metal and not actual enternal noise, like a motor mount or a line tapping or something. but Im pretty sure its coming from the inside, Ill get some vids when I can. any suggestions?
BTW... Im still blowing smoke at startup, and it might be blue. it goes away after it warms up.
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Kick azz is my boost hero!!! "
so I just took it out. I just cant get consistency out of this thing. I keyed the ignition and it fired up great, almost no sign of my phantom knock. ran for about 2 min's then the smoke started to bellow out, I went and got in it and took it for a drive. in cabin I heard no noise, no missing, no pining, no nothing. just sweet chugging music, it purs guys.
but alas after about five minutes of driving my mech side turned on. the one thing we cant work with is inconsistoncy. intermitent problems. If I cant get it to make noise drive funny or do whatever it is that its doing on a regular basis I cant fix it, so the best I can hope for is that it just keeps running all sexy like. and hope it doesnt mind 8 lbs.
also isnt it at all possiable for a forged piston motor to blow some smoke at startup? I mean Im almost positve its blow by, what eles could it be smoke at startup then goes away after a heat cycle?
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Kick azz is my boost hero!!! "
Your smoke issue could it be too much oil pressure to the turbo?
FU Tuning
That could be but I doubt it, Im using the same feed line and fittings I used the first time and it never blew smoke, not to mention that if it were the seals it wouldnt go away.
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Kick azz is my boost hero!!! "
actually seal smoke can stop after running for a bit, my car has 100% for sure a known leaking seal on the exhaust side and occasionally when its cold it will smoke a small amount then stop and wont smoke again till its cold again, like 40's-50's cold
208whp 239wtq
13.7 @ 102mph 2.19 60'
wow I didnt know that was possiable. regardless, I dont think is the turbo its got new seals, Im hoping its the rings seating, but im almost at three hundred miles, and they should have already seated. by now.
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Kick azz is my boost hero!!! "
im at 300 miles on my built eco as well and I do not have any smoking issues but the rings are still not completely set as I have been watching the misfires and slowly but surely they are diminishing as the miles are stacked on however they still do it from time to time. Now these are not noticeable misfires or audible but rather the ECUs determination of misfire counts that I have been monitoring. A lot has to do with ring gap as well for oil burn on a new built motor. So that brings me to the next question how big did you go with your gaps?
by the way 12PSI with a 20G is...............
Few weeks and we get to go 20 psi = YUMMY!!!!!!
ASE Master Certified Automotive Technician
Minion built the bottom end and went with a wesico recomendation of I want to say .040 I dont know if thats even feesabile but it sounds right
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Kick azz is my boost hero!!! "