You guys have been a big help so I hope you can help me with this. The Map sensor on my new intake, (LSJ) is different than my factory one. The supercharger kit calls for you to take your factory Ecotec map sensor connector, and your factory IAT connector, and connect them to the harness for the New map sensor. So I am ASSUMING that the new map sensor is probably a 2 bar or better and reads IAT temps and measures MAP from the same sensor. With that in mind, the Kit calls for me to leave that new connector unplugged until the dealer does the reflash. However, I dont want to take it to the dealer and use there base tune. I want to have it professionally tuned at my local speed shop. They use HP Tuners there. Plus, I have 42lb injectors and a smaller pulley so the base tune would be useless to me anyways. What I am concerned about it whether or not the speed shop using HP tuners is going to be able to tie in my factory map sensor connector and my factor IAT connector to this one single New map sensor? And from what I hear, if I took it to the dealer and they did their flashed, that it is a locked program so I cant even take it to the dealer have them do their base tune and take it to the speed shop and have them modify it. Does anyone know if that seems like something that the shop could do or am I in for a world of hurt??
I think what you are calling your "new map sensor" is referred to as a TMAP.
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you shouldn't have a problem. anytime people have the supercharger and lower the pulley size they start with a stock ecu to do there own reflash.
Wade,
Youre right about it being called a TMAP. What I am wondering is if HP Tuners is going to be able to change the parameters and patch my IAT and MAP together to just use the TMAP. I know the base Strategy that the dealer uses does this for me, and the speed shop I am going to take it to uses HP Tuners so this is a big concern.
Ecoclean,
I have heard that before about people upgrading injectors and pulley's and then going to get another tune, and Im hoping that when I get it done, that they will be able to patch the IAT and MAP together too that way I dont have to take it to the dealer, and then take it to the speed shop.
Douglass I wish I could answer your ? but I have very litle experience with hp tuners and no experience with anything related to the ecotec and the TMAP. Just be pateint I know there are many people who can answer this for. I just am not one of them.
FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!
Douglas Collins wrote:Wade,
Youre right about it being called a TMAP. What I am wondering is if HP Tuners is going to be able to change the parameters and patch my IAT and MAP together to just use the TMAP. I know the base Strategy that the dealer uses does this for me, and the speed shop I am going to take it to uses HP Tuners so this is a big concern.
The IAT and MAP signals come in on different wires, so there is no "patching" the signals together. You'll notice in the S/C kit, that there is a new wiring harness that combines the wires for the IAT and the MAP into one pigtail This brings both the IAT and MAP signals back on separate lines, just the way it used to be. The only difference is that the IAT element is inside the MAP sensor rather than being a separate sensor.
Your biggest issue will be making the ECU understand a 2.5 BAR map sensor.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Tuesday, December 18, 2007 7:25 PM
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Shifted,
That is actually what my main concern is. I know the reflash that the dealer performs does make it possible for my processor to read both signals coming from the TMAP. I dont want to take it to the dealer and pay them like $100 for 10 minutes of work if I can avoid that because the file they upload to my processor isnt going to work with the injectors and pulley I have installed. I had a guy at HP Tuners tell me that if I had my factory MAP sensor hooked up without having it flashed, that my car would go into limp mode. That is all true but then what he told me didnt make any sense to me at all. He told me that when they go through and reflash the computer, they have it set to when my map sees 0 vacuum, my computer would richen the fuel for boost. In the sense that, 0 vacuum and my car would be dumping fuel for max boost. It didnt make any sense to me because then i have no fuel control for different amounts of boost. If im @ 50% throttle, i would be dumping the same amount of fuel as if I was @ WOT. And that seems like a contradiction because i thought that was the reasoning for going to the TMAP setup on the LSJ. I really hope that guy didnt know what he was talking about because that has got me a little concerned.
I don't think you are understanding what I'm saying....
The TMAP has 2 signal wires coming out of it, one for the MAP, and one for the IAT.
THESE HOOK INDIVIDUALLY BACK INTO THE ECU IN THE SAME SPOTS AS THE STOCK MAP AND IAT, so there is no "teaching" the ECU to "decode" the TMAP. There is no programming that needs to be done to do this, there is no difference AT ALL as far as the ECU is concerned between a TMAP and a MAP/IAT connection wise. The ONLY difference is that the TMAP is 2.5 BAR and the stock is 1 BAR, thats it.
As far as the reflash goes, the person tuning your car knows that you can't fake a 2.5 BAR setup on your ECU, so the TMAP won't work. You would have to keep the stock MAP sensor/IAT and do it how they are saying it. The reason for this is that the MAP table has a very limited resolution, and you can't change it with HPT. If you fake it and multiply all the MAP readings in the table by 2.5, then you lose so much of the lower part of your table that the ECU is almost impossible to tune. If your tuner was smart, he would do that, then use the IPW modifier to modify your pulsewidth in boost, giving you some limited fuel tuning throughout the boost range.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Wednesday, December 19, 2007 4:50 AM
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Shifted,
Ok, I see what you are saying about the reference wires. The s/c kit instructions tell you to leave it unplugged until the processor has been reflashed so I figured there had to be some type of patching done but I understand now what you are saying. So then when it comes down to it, im not going to have any real good fuel tuning when in boost then am I? Because the ECU isnt going to know how much boost im in, just that im in boost because I am showing 0 Vac?
