For those of you that don't want to weld a bung /can't/don't have the pipe taps to do so. This is the probably the quickest easiest way to tap your oil pan for a drain back from your turbo...
Jegs part number 555-110562 -10AN Bulkhead fitting. $19.99
Step drills/knockout drills about $20
Measure down 1/2"-5/8" from the bottom side of the pan flange and drill pilot hole.
Drill hole to 7/8" dia.
Test fit bulkhead fitting.
Put a little silicone sealer on the threads and insert into pan. Tighten.
AFTER CHECKING AND DOUBLE CHECKING AND THEN CHECKING AGAIN FOR ANY METAL CHIPS , FOREIGN DEBRIS (AND MAKING SURE YOU DID TIGHTEN THE FITTING)...
Go put the pan back on
Total time after pan removal and clean up (and taking pics) about 7mins.
"The FACTS are always subject to CHANGE once the TRUTH is applied"
"In the entire history of man the only stupid questions are the ones that don't get asked"
IT IS VERY IMPORTANT...
That you MEASURE for yourself, before drilling. The oil drain locations for auto and manual can be VASTLY different. Also, MAKE SURE that the oil is NOT dumping out on your balance shafts or directly at the shaft housing.
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You are correct
. I should have put some kind of a disclaimer in there.
"The FACTS are always subject to CHANGE once the TRUTH is applied"
"In the entire history of man the only stupid questions are the ones that don't get asked"
Yeah you're not gonna love that straight fitting so much - a 45 degree or 90 degree would be a lot better for a shorter gravity fed line.
Either way good writeup as always Gary.
-Chris-
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Slowly but surely may some day win this race...
Yeah I forgot to mention the 45* fitting so you miss the water pump tube (or if you have room move the fitting back about 1-1/2")... Sorry guys,in to much of a hurry to get this car back on the road
.
"The FACTS are always subject to CHANGE once the TRUTH is applied"
"In the entire history of man the only stupid questions are the ones that don't get asked"
Nice job, Yeah I have a 45 degree fitting on mine, much easier
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Well I DICKED that up
... I needed to move back another 1/4" to get the 45* fitting to thread on the bulkhead fitting and miss the water return. Nothing a hammer and a little gentle bending on the water tube won't cure though
.
"The FACTS are always subject to CHANGE once the TRUTH is applied"
"In the entire history of man the only stupid questions are the ones that don't get asked"
Cheeze Wiz... I decided to fix things right instead of messing something else up.
Cut a plug for the first hole and hammered it in so I can tig weld it in. Then moved back and drilled the hole again.
All's well now.
Ever have one of those weeks???
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Friday, August 17, 2007 12:59 PM
"The FACTS are always subject to CHANGE once the TRUTH is applied"
"In the entire history of man the only stupid questions are the ones that don't get asked"
i had mine farther foward , and i ended up having to grind the block a little
but i also put the 45 right into the pan and welded it in
atleast you got access to a welder to fix her up like new again
I thought about doing something like that, but I'm SUPER nervous about having a metal nut inside of the oil pan.
why wouldnt u put ur return to your dipstick? just curious cuz my turbo kit came with a new angled dipstick with extra spout for return. granted im sure mines older but was wondering if there any big difference other then the fact that i didnt have to do that? mine a 99 non eco and i got the t28 stage 2 kit
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Big B wrote:why wouldnt u put ur return to your dipstick? just curious cuz my turbo kit came with a new angled dipstick with extra spout for return. granted im sure mines older but was wondering if there any big difference other then the fact that i didnt have to do that? mine a 99 non eco and i got the t28 stage 2 kit
The 2.2 is a lot different, and has a MUCH bigger dipstick than the 2.4. The 2.4 dipstick is about 1/4" in diameter and definately doesn't lend itself to installing a bung for an oil drain. Its also a lot nicer to be able to tap into the pan and have a larger oil return to eliminate any backups.
4cyltuner.com - Information Source For 4 Cylinder Tuners
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I would much rather have mine welded..
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Very nice setup Gary....... and yea, I've had 'one of those weeks' many times over the years
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Any one have a problem with the oil drain nit draining because of the oil level?
srt4gt35r wrote:Any one have a problem with the oil drain nit draining because of the oil level?
huh?
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Ya that didn't make sense, sorry.. Tapping on the oil pan.... has anyone had a problem with slow drain back into the pan and getting back up causing oil to get past the seals?
No i have one on my turbo eco and it works great -10 an
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put the drain in the highest spot you can in the pan , and you shouldnt have any problems
gary are you planning on using a steel braided line or a rubber hose for your return?
I'd suggest strongly a braided line, I used hi temp rubbed hose once and it burned through, not to mention, to keep it from kinking was a beyotch
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I'm using fuel resistant silicon hose on mine, I've never had a problem with kinking or burning through, either. Of course, I change my hose every other oil change or so as a matter of habit.
I just consider the $5.00 cost as a necessary oil change expense.
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
If I do choose the bulkhead plan, can i use jb weld in the inside to make sure nothing will leak?
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^^You have an ecotec.
Ecotecs have a perfect spot to drill and tap the girdle.
The hole looks too small to fit a -8an hose end. Does anyone know what drill bit or thread size for an -8 an fitting?
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