Hey people i'm about to join the BOOST club. I recieved my S/C kit yesterday and I'm super excited to get it installed. I have a couple questions before starting the install.
1.) There is a sticker in one of the packages that says "Premium Fuel Only" does the S/C kit require premium for optimal performance?
2.) Can I drive the car before getting the reflash? I cant get my car into the dealer until monday July 31st for the reflash. I heard from other JBO members that if you keep it under 2G RPM that everything will be good. I'm sure I can baby it for a day or so. What will happen if I go over 2G RPM into boost? Will the car quit? Run like crap? Stall out?
3.)Can someone provide me information on where the Fuel Relay is? or in which fuse box it's in b/c that is the first step to do. Sorry to ask this question but I havent really checked my fuse box yet or under the hood. But I will.
4.) I want to document the whole thing in a HOW-TO Sticky with tons of pictures but some of the pictures in instructions are to black b/c they are a photo copy. I would like some bigger more clear pictures for my own install to help me out. Especially the pictures of the routing of the PVC hoses and vacuum lines before installing the main S/C. The pictures are to black to see which will make the install hard. Can someone post up some of these pictures it would be most helpful. Or if someone else has documented the install that would be most helpful.
5.)Will I be able to modify my AEM intake to work with the S/C kit? I would assume so since in the instructions are for the stock air box.
6.)What do you do with that big black rubber plug? I looked in the instructions and I think it goes in the airbox part or something. Why would you have to plug something? I dont think that I will need to use this since I have my AEM intake but I thought I would ask.
7.)For my boost guage should I tap off the FPR line? Or off the S/C. Both seem to work for people. But Tapping off the FPR line would be alot easier to get at IMO.
8.)After the install, how much boost can I expect. From what I have read on JBO it's between 5-6PSI.
That is all I can think of right now but I may have more questions later on as I think of them.
Regards,
1. Yes, you should ONLY run premium in ANY boosted engine. Its not a performance thing, but a safety thing.
2. Yes, just leave the 1 bar MAP sensor on there until you get it flashed.
3. Its in the fuse box under the hood, by the battery. Its clearly labeled "FUEL PUMP".
4. Sorry, can't help with that one.
5. You should be able to, have fun with the hack saw, measure twice.
6. Not sure, haven't installed one personally.
7. Whichever works for you.
8. About 4.5 PSI, depending on weather and other conditions.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Wednesday, July 25, 2007 8:21 AM
4cyltuner.com - Information Source For 4 Cylinder Tuners
Buy stuff from CarCustoms Ebay! Won't be disappointed!
To bad you can't make it to the bash. Beer and some time there I'm sure you could leave boosted in just under a few hours. Before install you might want to think about sending it out to get ported and polished. Cause it works so much better, and looks so much sweeter for sure.
Im a very mechanically inclined person. I have been working on cars/trucks for ever. Just some of the pictures in the instructions arent that clear. There to dark to see.
Anyone have any install pictures or during install pictures?
2. LOL, you should've seen me try driving up onto the tow dolly before the reflash. (My kit was fully installed for the reflash, so I had the new MAP sensor in, guess that makes all the difference in driveability, because this thing drove like @!#$, took me 4 starts/stalls to get it on the dolly)
8. I see 3 as soon as I floor it, 4 tops, if I'm lucky. I'm gettin a smaller pulley soon so I at least get what it should be at (5-6)
2001 Olds Alero (LD9)
650 whp / 543 ft-lb
@turboalero
The only thing I have to add is that nothing odd will happen if you go over 2000rpm. You can part throttle it to about 3000rpm before shifts so you dont hold up traffic, just definatly do not floor it though.
You asked about the plug. It goes in your stock rubber S-tube where the IAT sensor was. You will notice that the instructions tell you to put the IAT sensor on the sc. You may need it to plug your AEM intake. I am not exactly sure where you hack the intake at to make it fit as I never routed mine that way.
The only other thing I can think of is that for the bottom nuts that hold on the sc to the head you wight want to grind down the edge of the 10mm wrench you use to give you more clearence. You will know what I am talking about when you go to do this.
FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!
Wade Jarvis:
Thanks for the tips. What I might do is with the IAT i know it goes onto the SC so I might just re-locate my battery back a bit further and just put my K&N right on the TB.
[ion] C2:
You really had that much trouble driving it? It really runs that crappy? Does the car idle fine when running? I have to drive it down to the dealer on monday for the reflash. Which is a little bit of a drive(distance wise).
Regards,
No, it's got a terribly rough idle, it dies within 5-10 seconds of attempting to drive it. Basically... runs like @!#$. Don't drive it there, have it towed. (Unless you really have to, use the old MAP sensor, like they all say, because apparently that makes it run alright. I used the new MAP sensor like I said and had everything completed when I took it to the dealer)
But yeah, I had some people help push it up on/off the dolly because it had like no power at all, runs like crap and stalls like none other.
2001 Olds Alero (LD9)
650 whp / 543 ft-lb
@turboalero
like a few others have said it will run fine with the old map sensor, so just install the new one once you've gotten the car reflashed.
homieJ wrote:like a few others have said it will run fine with the old map sensor, so just install the new one once you've gotten the car reflashed.
He is exactly right. It will run just like normal if you leave the stock map sensor in. I drove my car for 3 weeks before I had my pcm tuned with a modified version of the gm reflash. Instead of getting the GM of the reflash I would highly reccomend you talk to Ron Beyer (Shifted) about getting a modified version of the gm reflash. He can use HP tuners to modify the gm reflash for more performance. There are also many other things that he can change such as raising your rev limeter and speed limeter. If this was not done to my car I do not think I would see the performance gans I have from so few mods.
I do not see anything wrong with your idea for your intake. Here is what I did with mine.
FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!
NeoJuice wrote:Hey people i'm about to join the BOOST club. I recieved my S/C kit yesterday and I'm super excited to get it installed. I have a couple questions before starting the install.
1.) There is a sticker in one of the packages that says "Premium Fuel Only" does the S/C kit require premium for optimal performance?
Honestly, if you actually have to ask this question, I don't think you're ready for boost yet.
14.330 @ 96.37mph
BlownBlackZ wrote:NeoJuice wrote:Hey people i'm about to join the BOOST club. I recieved my S/C kit yesterday and I'm super excited to get it installed. I have a couple questions before starting the install.
1.) There is a sticker in one of the packages that says "Premium Fuel Only" does the S/C kit require premium for optimal performance?
Honestly, if you actually have to ask this question, I don't think you're ready for boost yet.
I thought the same thing when I read that. It looks like he is going to do it anyway so I figured I would try and help him out.
To answer your ? the reason you need premium fuel is because non premium fuels have a lower octane usually somewhere between 87-89. You need the premium feul which has a octane rating of 91-93. The reason is that the 91 or better octane fuel will burn slower which is needed to prevent detonation damage. Detonation damage occurs when the fuel is ignited before the piston has fully started downward. Detonation damage will melt a whole or cause a peice of you piston to break, which basically destroys the inside of your engine.
FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!
Wade Jarvis wrote:BlownBlackZ wrote:NeoJuice wrote:Hey people i'm about to join the BOOST club. I recieved my S/C kit yesterday and I'm super excited to get it installed. I have a couple questions before starting the install.
1.) There is a sticker in one of the packages that says "Premium Fuel Only" does the S/C kit require premium for optimal performance?
Honestly, if you actually have to ask this question, I don't think you're ready for boost yet.
I thought the same thing when I read that. It looks like he is going to do it anyway so I figured I would try and help him out.
To answer your ? the reason you need premium fuel is because non premium fuels have a lower octane usually somewhere between 87-89. You need the premium feul which has a octane rating of 91-93. The reason is that the 91 or better octane fuel will burn slower which is needed to prevent detonation damage. Detonation damage occurs when the fuel is ignited before the piston has fully started downward. Detonation damage will melt a whole or cause a peice of you piston to break, which basically destroys the inside of your engine.
Wade:
Thanks for the information. I knew in turbo setups and so forth you had to run premium. I just didnt know for the GM S/C kit b/c it's a pretty simple bolt on for the average end consumer b/c it doesnt put out a high boost numbers. It's not that I didnt know why you should run premium.
When you talk about the modified GM reflash. How much performance gain did you figure you got from it? Has it increased your boost? Or Motor HP/performance.
What i'll do it just run the old map sensor b/c I have to drive it to the dealer. I'm going to do the install on saturday. I have access to my parents car to drive on sunday and on monday morning to work. Then I take it into the dealer monday afternoon to be reflashed. Ill leave the old MAP sensor on there to drive it to the dealer. Then just pop on the new one after the reflash before the tech starts it up. Then all should be good.
Can you provide me pictures of the vacuum/PVC lines around the S/C and pulleys. The damm pictures in the manual are to dark and I dont want to hook something up wrong. Or is it pretty self explanitory once you get it all apart?
Regards,
As for the HPtuners modified GM reflash. I can not tell you for sure how much gain I would have had over the regular gm reflash. I never ran the regular gm reflash. I have had the modified one the entire time. As an educated guess I would say somewhere between 10-20whp. It is very hard to say because one dyno might say 214whp another might say 195whp. The reflash has nothing to do with the amount of boost. The amount of boost you see is all due to mehcanical factors mainly supercharger pully size. Smaller pulley=more boost.
I would get you some pictures but my car has no engine in it at the moment. I already looked I have no pics of it installed that would help you.
FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!
jarid,
as it stands wade makes as much power as me with all my bolt ons, guaranteed he makes that power due to the modified reflash. ron (shifted) probably adding some timing and just smoothed things out and would make a huge difference, i would send it to ron for sure.
10 hours later finally got everything installed. Tomorrow only thing left to do is put the belt on and start her up. Monday afternoon she goes into the dealer for reflash. I should have my boost gauge hooked up next week sometime when my tripple pod shows up.
