Just wondering for thoughs putting out hp in the 300-350whp range, do you think the stock axles will be able to hold this? As i am starting an engine build and if i do not need to spend $1550 on performance axles i would rather not.. Chances are i would never run slicks on this just sticky street tires..
Also i thought i would get more response in the boost forum than in the performance forum.. so sorry if you think it should be in the other forum..
Here is my build list for now.. any other suggestions let me know
- Wisco pistons (I am planning on 8.5:1, matched with the gap-less rings)
- Eagle rods
- Port & Polished head
- Custom grins on the cams (for boost)
- oil passages machined for better flow
and then just the ARP studs all around
and if i dont respond right away its because i am on holidays in saskatoon
and dont check the computer much here..
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
just for the record......... i don't know if they're exactly the same, but I'm running stock axles on my n-body and I destroyed a SPEC stage 3, and am STILL running stock axles, WELL over 300hp.
-Trailblazer SS - not so custom 6.0L - custom intake - custom tune
- (1) 2.4L on an engine stand (1) blown trans (2) good quad trans (1) eco trans = party
I have run the same stock axles for 4 years now and haven't had any problems. I put down well over 300wtq at only 1500rpm for years and haven't had one problem yet. Now that I just said that I guess I will snap one on my first test drive for this year.
Quoth the Raven 'Nevermore
raven@accesswave.ca
Raven Autosports
55 McQuade Lake Cres,
Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
(902) 850-3330
10.82@132
My stock axles are still holding as well.
- 93 mph in the 1/8 mile
Member of J-Body Of Michigan.
i make maybe 160whp if i'm lucky and I snapped one of my axles so its anybody's guess i bet
for the most part they hold up
alright then.. well with spyhunter, Raven and skilz all still on the stocks ill take my chances with the stockers
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
Josh F wrote:Just wondering for thoughs putting out hp in the 300-350whp range, do you think the stock axles will be able to hold this? As i am starting an engine build and if i do not need to spend $1550 on performance axles i would rather not.. Chances are i would never run slicks on this just sticky street tires..
Also i thought i would get more response in the boost forum than in the performance forum.. so sorry if you think it should be in the other forum..
Here is my build list for now.. any other suggestions let me know
- Wisco pistons (I am planning on 8.5:1, matched with the gap-less rings)
- Eagle rods
- Port & Polished head
- Custom grins on the cams (for boost)
- oil passages machined for better flow
and then just the ARP studs all around
and if i dont respond right away its because i am on holidays in saskatoon and dont check the computer much here..
im on my 3rd axle. i was fine for a few years. then i went to the track for the 1st time. made 7 passes and my axle started popping pretty bad after we got home. replaced it. (60 something bucks and a 3 year warrenty) the boot was defective and tore after about a month. this one has been holding up fine. stockers ftw
heres the problem though. the weakest link WILL fail.. it may take time but it will fail. the problem with getting aftermarket axles is now if your clutch wont slip, tires wont spin, axles wont break what does that leave left to take the abuse? the diff. and at 1400 for a quaife. 60 bucks an axle and some time out of your day sounds alot better then a grand plus a tranny drop.
http://www.myspace.com/15102113
12.5@116 2.0 60ft
Quote:
heres the problem though. the weakest link WILL fail.. it may take time but it will fail. the problem with getting aftermarket axles is now if your clutch wont slip, tires wont spin, axles wont break what does that leave left to take the abuse? the diff. and at 1400 for a quaife. 60 bucks an axle and some time out of your day sounds alot better then a grand plus a tranny drop.
I'm on my second set of axles. Seem to be holding up just fine. The first set saw a lot of track time though. I've yet to track it with the turbo. But have been turbod almost a year now and on 10+psi for more than 6 months. I've been running 15psi for the last month, other than a lot of tire spin, which is probably saving my axles, she's running great.
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4 Cams...32 Valves...5 Liters...This Could Get Fun!
John H [CavalierKid wrote:]
heres the problem though. the weakest link WILL fail.. it may take time but it will fail. the problem with getting aftermarket axles is now if your clutch wont slip, tires wont spin, axles wont break what does that leave left to take the abuse? the diff. and at 1400 for a quaife. 60 bucks an axle and some time out of your day sounds alot better then a grand plus a tranny drop.
Do we know if any one has blown a quaife diff yet? Ive heard they're stong as hell but "i've heards vs truth " comes to mind right now.
My bets are onceyou upgrade the axles eather the stock Diff. will blow or the tranny will pop.
I've seen the diff. explode on a completely stock cav. Granted, he launched at 4000 and had a TON of wheel hop. But the spider gear inside still blew up.
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4 Cams...32 Valves...5 Liters...This Could Get Fun!
There was an excellent write up by Adam Hahn on this board about this very subject, and basically he was saying that wheel hop is the number one cause of broken axles and to avoid it at all costs. He also said that drag radials are harder on the drivetrain than full slicks because the sidewall of a slick gives and acts as a shock absorber where a drag radial won't give as much and will cause damage faster than a slick will.
2000 Z24 5spd header & catback for now.
Have you given any thought to going with 1mm oversized valves?
FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!
Actually the write up was by Bill Hahn Jr., Adam's dad, and it is stickied in the wheels and tires forum.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
John H [CavalierKid wrote:
im on my 3rd axle. i was fine for a few years. then i went to the track for the 1st time. made 7 passes and my axle started popping pretty bad after we got home. replaced it. (60 something bucks and a 3 year warrenty) the boot was defective and tore after about a month. this one has been holding up fine. stockers ftw
heres the problem though. the weakest link WILL fail.. it may take time but it will fail. the problem with getting aftermarket axles is now if your clutch wont slip, tires wont spin, axles wont break what does that leave left to take the abuse? the diff. and at 1400 for a quaife. 60 bucks an axle and some time out of your day sounds alot better then a grand plus a tranny drop.
I don't necessarily agree with that. We had stage 5 DSS axles in 2 different transmissions and the axles failed first. That was with 400 WHP and no diffs have blown. The axles were actually the first thing to fail on us. So like many have said, some peoples parts last longer others break in stock applications.
Street-Legal 2003 Sunfire 10.58 @ 139 MPH
Adam Hahn wrote:John H [CavalierKid wrote:
im on my 3rd axle. i was fine for a few years. then i went to the track for the 1st time. made 7 passes and my axle started popping pretty bad after we got home. replaced it. (60 something bucks and a 3 year warrenty) the boot was defective and tore after about a month. this one has been holding up fine. stockers ftw
heres the problem though. the weakest link WILL fail.. it may take time but it will fail. the problem with getting aftermarket axles is now if your clutch wont slip, tires wont spin, axles wont break what does that leave left to take the abuse? the diff. and at 1400 for a quaife. 60 bucks an axle and some time out of your day sounds alot better then a grand plus a tranny drop.
I don't necessarily agree with that. We had stage 5 DSS axles in 2 different transmissions and the axles failed first. That was with 400 WHP and no diffs have blown. The axles were actually the first thing to fail on us. So like many have said, some peoples parts last longer others break in stock applications.
was that on a jbody? i know the older izuzu (spelling) trans in pre 00 had diff problems in higher hp levels. i think as far as knowledge goes, your the one thats pushed the getreg as far as a street car.. i thought i recall you or your dad posting the diff having cracks? it didnt fail but the abuse was taking its toll
i was mearlin stating that for 300whp, the stockers are sufficient.
Quote:
I've seen the diff. explode on a completely stock cav. Granted, he launched at 4000 and had a TON of wheel hop. But the spider gear inside still blew up.
yeah there were 2 times when i was doing a heat cycle, idk what happened... it was a nice spin, but as soon as the car creeped out of the water box (ebrake still up) it started hopping BAD so i let off.
http://www.myspace.com/15102113
12.5@116 2.0 60ft
well as far as the diff goes i have the Quaife LSD diff installed so my weak point would be the gears... and although i have a spare trany laying in my basement i would rather not pay to have the differential switched to it... i think ill let the weak point be the tires spinning which my new ones do not really do even with a high rpm launch (235/45/17 Goodyear Eagle F1) and the axles at $60.. even though they are a bitch to pull out with the Quaife LSD as they bind up on a lip in side..
Wade Jarvis wrote:Have you given any thought to going with 1mm oversized valves?
i did, but i dont really want to go to drastic on the head work... porting is about it.. mainly want to build it to hold the boost levels and just flow a bit better like $3000 for a fully built head it to much for me... ill do about $1300 max for the head..
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
Quote:
even though they are a bitch to pull out with the Quaife LSD as they bind up on a lip in side..
interesting that you say that. i read alot of that about the obx lsd for the getreg. its a knock off but someone posted pics of that and a quaife side by side then taken appart and they were exactly the same. only difference could be the metals its made out of..
i didnt konw the quaife had that same lip problem on the inside
http://www.myspace.com/15102113
12.5@116 2.0 60ft
The head is where the most attention should be given. Port match everything, larger valves, good cam design, port/polish. Most attention should be given to the exhaust side on the LD9.
John H [CavalierKid wrote:]Quote:
even though they are a bitch to pull out with the Quaife LSD as they bind up on a lip in side..
interesting that you say that. i read a lot of that about the obx lsd for the getreg. its a knock off but someone posted pics of that and a quaife side by side then taken appart and they were exactly the same. only difference could be the metals its made out of..
i didnt konw the quaife had that same lip problem on the inside
well im not sure... The one side was easy to pull out, but the side that was hard to pull out was the side i was hit by the civic... so that might have something to do with it.. haven't tried to pull them out since then... I do know the company that sells the Quaife LSD units in the states is a VERY! good company to work with. i told them about the crash i was in with the unit and about how i was worried it might be damaged and they said have it checked (which i did, and i was fine) and if it is they would replace it all free under warranty... and thats with them knowing i was hit and possible damage from the crash... defiantly well worth it..
Fst Cavy wrote:The head is where the most attention should be given. Port match everything, larger valves, good cam design, port/polish. Most attention should be given to the exhaust side on the LD9.
yea i understand that, and from reading i hear the exhaust side needs the most attention, but i just dont want to spend $3300 on the head alone...
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
Just because a few ppl have run higher power with them doesnt make them invincible for everyone
1989 Turbo Trans Am #82, 2007 Cobalt SS G85
Rodimus Prime wrote:Just because a few ppl have run higher power with them doesnt make them invincible for everyone
this is true.. but at $60 for OEM ones VS $1550 for performance ones ill take my chances of breaking the OEM ones 25 times
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
1550? huh where did you see that they shouldnt be a penny over 800 for the set
1989 Turbo Trans Am #82, 2007 Cobalt SS G85
my only advice for your motor build is looking into something for your oiling system, you already stated the enlarged oil ports but maybe look at the 2.3 oil pump swap or other people have had good success with the clevite oil pump
Fst Cavy wrote:The head is where the most attention should be given. Port match everything, larger valves, good cam design, port/polish. Most attention should be given to the exhaust side on the LD9.
no way.. should be last on the list when yoru trying to get that extra power.. all that money ur gonna spend on machine work and labor on the head can be compinsated by running another pound or 2 of boost. when ur boost is as high as u want it. then u move on
2-3k in headwork or another turn on the boost controller
http://www.myspace.com/15102113
12.5@116 2.0 60ft
Rodimus Prime wrote:1550? huh where did you see that they shouldnt be a penny over 800 for the set
show me where they are $800 Cdn for the set??? best i found was $700 something for one...
LAFNGAS wrote:my only advice for your motor build is looking into something for your oiling system, you already stated the enlarged oil ports but maybe look at the 2.3 oil pump swap or other people have had good success with the clevite oil pump
well so far spyhunter is only using the clevite one i believe which is just a stock replacement and i do not even think he did any porting on the oil passages and he is running well over the power i plan on going so i think i will stick to the same pump he has... and stay away from the 2.3L stuff... unless Jbody Performance will do it since they are the ones i am getting to build the engine for me
John H [CavalierKid wrote:]Fst Cavy wrote:The head is where the most attention should be given. Port match everything, larger valves, good cam design, port/polish. Most attention should be given to the exhaust side on the LD9.
no way.. should be last on the list when your trying to get that extra power.. all that money ur gonna spend on machine work and labor on the head can be compensated by running another pound or 2 of boost. when ur boost is as high as u want it. then u move on
2-3k in head work or another turn on the boost controller
yea thats what i was thinking too... the most i might do (after taking more with spyhunter) is SS valves.. but there is no way I am putting $3000+ In to my head.. like John H said, i will just turn the boost up slightly more to hit my power goal...
and i don't really feel like changing my boost gauge out (just to lazy to lol) so i will see what 15psi (which is max on my SW gauge) on the built engine will give me and if its close enough then im leaving it there
...
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
