How much power to you plan to make on this 15-20 psi?
- 93 mph in the 1/8 mile
Member of J-Body Of Michigan.
Skilz10179 wrote:How much power to you plan to make on this 15-20 psi?
bump........you size turbo's by hp
Durr......I posted before I went to work today I forgot....I'm looking at making 300 WHP or more. I already have the bases covered for the engine build and I know it will easily handle the power, I'm just stuck on what turbo to go with.
JerseyKid ( EPIDEMIK ) wrote:300 WHP on a OHV?
If he has a built head and pumping 15-20 psi through it, I think 300 whp is plenty realistic
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"Youth in Asia"...I don't see anything wrong with that.
from what I have read 240-250 has been done on completely stock OHV, so 300whp built shouldn't be an issue.
OHV notec or stevefire would have to answer more realistic or "experienced" answers on this one.
HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED
JerseyKid ( EPIDEMIK ) wrote:300 WHP on a OHV?
lol yup thats the plan.....
honestly though I'm shootin for 12's in the quarter.
but back on topic
Which would you recomend based off of the choices posted?
125 (HP)x 2.4(PR) = 300(HP) exactly.
assuming like a 94% VE(don't know actual, it doesn't hurt)
the gt3271 for 2.4PR will give you full spool @ 3300RPM @ 74% eff. And engine redline @ 6000rpm @ 73% eff. -good
the gt3571 for 2.4PR will give you full spool @ 3200RPM @ 73% eff. and engine redline @ 6000RPM @ 75% eff This one is the one! Super nice efficientcy across the powerband!
at a glance of the map... the T3 Super 60 is not good for that boost!
at a glance of the map... the T04b will boost fully at 4800RPM (I kinda laughed a little)
the Turbonetics T04B S trim for 2.4 PR will give you full spool @ 3800RPM @ 65% eff. And engine redline @6000RPM @ 60%eff. MAX eff 70%
I did the work for you out of the ones you posted... it was fun!
Good luck with your build!
____________________________
Dracula called, and he's coming tonight!
The vertical axis (pressure ratio) is the pressure out of the compressor housing relative to the ambient air pressure. The way you're looking at it will produce errors.
T04E-50 trim is the compressor you want, hands down, but you'll want to run more than 20 psi (it's efficient to much more). I've done more plots for the LN2 than most would consider practical
Also,
Turbines, To Speed! wrote:assuming like a 94% VE(don't know actual, it doesn't hurt)
Actually, it does hurt, incorrect VE guesses will grossly mis-size the turbo. I use the dyno2000 software (crude, but with head flow #s pretty accurate) to determine VE. 94% VE is not very practical on a street-built LN2 from what I've seen. The most I've ever managed to 'build' is something like 97% on a motor that would not be the least bit streetable.
And yes, 300whp is very reasonable.
fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
Quote:
The vertical axis (pressure ratio) is the pressure out of the compressor housing relative to the ambient air pressure. The way you're looking at it will produce errors.
2.4PR = 20psi of boost.... I was just looking at it just for the boost he wants to have.
Quote:
Actually, it does hurt, incorrect VE guesses will grossly mis-size the turbo. I use the dyno2000 software (crude, but with head flow #s pretty accurate) to determine VE. 94% VE is not very practical on a street-built LN2 from what I've seen. The most I've ever managed to 'build' is something like 97% on a motor that would not be the least bit streetable.
And yes, 300whp is very reasonable.
If I was off VE by %5 or so, it wouldn't hurt ploting it on the maps. if it was off by too much... yeah it would.(I'm thinking I over estimated on this one.)
I dont know the actual engine size either... I assumed engine size 2165cc... but it could be 2189cc I couldn't look into it because, new york j-bodies is gone.
____________________________
Dracula called, and he's coming tonight!
Turbines, To Speed! wrote:Quote:
The vertical axis (pressure ratio) is the pressure out of the compressor housing relative to the ambient air pressure. The way you're looking at it will produce errors.
2.4PR = 20psi of boost.... I was just looking at it just for the boost he wants to have.
That comment was actually to the original poster, who believed the scaling was a measure of gage pressure.
fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
http://www.grapeaperacing.com/tech/turbochargers.pdf
I don't know how i came across this... it has good information on how to size turbo's to compressor maps like how to plot it, adiabatic efficiency, what Performance Rating means(PR) and so on. It's really easy.
just to note:
compressor maps display LB/min when you calculate intake flow (cfm) i usually convert like this
(cfm) / 14.47178 = LB/min
10LB/min = 144.7178CFM
____________________________
Dracula called, and he's coming tonight!
Thanks for all the input. I do have one more question though. Lets say I wanted to make 300hp at only 15 psi, what would you recomend then? I was curious because I know you have to fake a 2 bar tune with hp tuners but wouldnt the tune be sloppier if I went to a fake 3 bar? Given that senario what would you recomend to stay with the 2bar and hit my 300hp goal?
Im on the same page as u. I got my info from here
http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=40&i=70730&t=70730#70730 i followed it, changed the equations a lil. i assumed 90%ve because of the head work i have. and used 2300cc for the 20 over. and 140cubic inches. with those changed, and me looking at compressor maps. It looks like the best one would be the t3/t4 t04e 57 trim. i plan to run 15-20psi. ill run 15 but till i build my head more i will push 20. But try the link, it should be verry helpfull
DRIVE HARD OR DONT DRIVE AT ALL!!!
You will need a VERY high flowing head and high compression to make 300whp on 15psi, and a very big turbo (too big).I would suggest a 3bar, or alternative tuning.
CAVI.DEMON wrote:i assumed 90%ve because of the head work i have. and used 2300cc for the 20 over...ill run 15 but till i build my head more i will push 20
Your VE varies by RPM, you can not use the same values throughout the powerband. Your peak VE is at peak torque.
Where did you get 2300cc for .020" over? you might want to redo your calculations there.
How much boost you can run really doesn't have much to do with building your head (other than valve springs). Increasing the flow through your head will actually allow you to make the same power on lower boost. Increasing the flow of your head will not help your engine hold the added 'power' better though.
fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
^^ what he said. If your head flows really well, you can use less "psi" to net the same or more power, because the air will flow in better. And if you have the best flowing head... then up some pressure to "force" induction.
HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED
well im goin to post some more Q's in my thread. so im not thread jacking
DRIVE HARD OR DONT DRIVE AT ALL!!!
ge_forcez22 wrote:^^ what he said. If your head flows really well, you can use less "psi" to net the same or more power, because the air will flow in better. And if you have the best flowing head... then up some pressure to "force" induction.
Exactly. It's all about VE and CFM's. Boost is not relative. Compression plays a VERY large role as well, obviously.
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