Ok, if some of you have noticed I am swapping an ION 2.2ecotec into my 96 Z24 cavalier. The catch is I'm not doing it with a donor car, nor with everything that EVERYONE says you must have to do it.
Heres a picture of the project and daily driver both 96 z's. The red one is getting the ecotec
heres the motor, although now completing taken apart
The basic of this build is stock body z24, IRS swap, The junkyard big brake set-up(using w-g-f body parts), built engine including roughly 9.2:1 static CR, forged internals, 8k-8.5kredline, Patriot stage 2 head, 60-1 turbo (.63/.70 a/r housings) complete custom turbo set up. TG LSD and Megasquirt or EMS haven't decided yet
Now onto the goody pictures
Thanks to LSE performance in MN for the piston/rods package
8.9:1 cr .020" overbore Wiseco Pistons
and Eagle H Beam Rods
Tial 38mm Wastegate
Also thanks to Level Zero Motorsports for getting me a Jbody oil pan and BSD kit Although both are still on there way. so no pictures yet
I'll try to keep this updated as much as possible. I'm still working on getting alot more parts to finish this up. Including a cage, and the rest of the turbo kit
And just because I got an amazing deal on these I picked them up...($250 total both brand new
)
Everything looks good.
On a side not i might be worried about the stamped numbers in your piston dishes creating hotspots in the combustion chamber. With boost it could amplify the problem. Just something to think about.
Nice stuff man..
Make sure you clean that motor though hehe.
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD
AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
Wrench Monkey wrote:Everything looks good.
On a side not i might be worried about the stamped numbers in your piston dishes creating hotspots in the combustion chamber. With boost it could amplify the problem. Just something to think about.
yeha that was borught to my attention yesterday, but why would Wiseco stamp them if it could cause a problem? and how would i remove it with out effecting the CR of the pistons?
good stuff and good luck!
if you can do the swap without using a donor, I know it would help out a TON of people on the org who wants ecos
RyZ96 wrote:Wrench Monkey wrote:Everything looks good.
On a side not i might be worried about the stamped numbers in your piston dishes creating hotspots in the combustion chamber. With boost it could amplify the problem. Just something to think about.
yeha that was borught to my attention yesterday, but why would Wiseco stamp them if it could cause a problem? and how would i remove it with out effecting the CR of the pistons?
I would call the company you had bought them from and make them aware of the situation... or call wiseco directly and ask.
DaFlyinSkwirl (PJ) - BPU++ wrote:good stuff and good luck!
if you can do the swap without using a donor, I know it would help out a TON of people on the org who wants ecos
the key factor of doing it without a donor car, is to run a standalone right away.. so i don't think it'll help alot of people as alot of people don't have the downtime/money for a standalone..
Thats weird, my wiseco pistons weren't stamped.. Hmmm
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
RyZ96 wrote:yeha that was borught to my attention yesterday, but why would Wiseco stamp them if it could cause a problem? and how would i remove it with out effecting the CR of the pistons?
You don't have to completely level them, just take a flap wheel over them to make sure the edges are very dull. You wouldn't make enough of a difference to put a ding in the CR.
fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
DaFlyinSkwirl (PJ) - BPU++ wrote:if you can do the swap without using a donor, I know it would help out a TON of people on the org who wants ecos
X2!
how much did the motor cost you?
http://www.gadomestics.com/
You don't need a full stand alone.. you can run an Eco on your wiring and your ecu. People are hung up on ecu's being tied to a motor. Now that we can adjust the tune for an engine that has the exact same inputs and sensors, why do we need to swap anything? At worst, cut and splice. Just takes some research time. Personally I'd rather read then run wire
Sven you totally quarterloafed your computer..
actually i can't run the motor on my ecm, HPT won't help me. since the car is a 96. Plus HPT will not work for what I want. yes it is a nice system, but just work for me. so standalone it is
repin to 97
Sven you totally quarterloafed your computer..
sry bro, I just didn't want you to think you HAD to run a standalone. If you want more info you can pm me, otherwise g/l and grats on the progress.
Sven you totally quarterloafed your computer..
o well good luck anyway =D
good luck Ryan
Blew it up, build numbers coming soon
blah..... I didnt need another red car sitting in my driveway anyway......
good luck with the swap.
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
^^ thanks to everyone especially from you Brian..
next week it should start getting nice out again, so i'm going to work on a few things on the body.. fix a little bit of rust and clean the engine bay.