how do you reroute your a/c to cool off your intercooler?
Displacement= 2.2L
Valve Train= OHV
Bore & Stroke= 3.50 x 3.46
Compression Ratio= 9 to 1
Net HP @ RPM= 125 @ 5200
Maximum Torque Ft Lbs @ RPM= 135 @ 4000
Fuel System= MFI
Normal Oil Pressure: psi @ 3000 RPM= 56
Put it in your passenger seat.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Thursday, February 01, 2007 6:26 PM
And you wonder why people are rude to you. geez.
That goes toward Jbody305.
Gilles
2.3 Ho
its really not that uncommon.. car manufactuers have been working on doing it for a couple years atleast now, the benefits from the cooling out weigh the loss from the a/c..
jbody305 isn't crazy or asking a stupid question.
but to answer your question no one does it on jbodies. i really have information about a/c in general..but i'd assume you need a closed intercooler of some sort (like a water to air) and route the lines to it some way
but in order for it to work i would think you need a/c on at all times
so pretty much just take the easier more common route and run a FMIC and call it a day
didnt ford try with the lightning , then decied not to do it
I knew some guys that did something similar. They did not use the AC system. They sort of made there own. They had a small cooler that they would put ice in and it had a fan on it. They had hose and piping ran to the fro of the car. This car was a DSM, and if I remember correctly they had it connected to the BOV and when it routed back in the intake system (as the DSM's do in stock form) this air went in as well. They claimed big gains, but I was never sure if it was worth all the trouble of building that system.
FU Tuning
thats an air/water intercooler.
i know of someone that ran their a/c through the coolant passege on his throtle body on an n/a v6. it made a little bit of difference. im sure an a/c intercooler would work quite well like an air/water intercooler. the issue with air/water intercoolers is you need to keep draining water and adding ice for concistent performance.
custom fab 1 or 2 stainless steel hoses (brake line) that are mated to both sides of your intercooler and run a line off to a CO2 or Nitrogen bottle (Nitrogen is heavy liquid and needs to be in a double walled cylinder if liquid [I know this cause I freeze alot of big pipes] but is much much colder) and hook up a check valve to a switch. Make sure the tubing has a vent. basically the N-tercooler thingy but much cheaper and you can make it much more effective. Just flip switch and drive (btw this is also a ricer purge line mod haha)
I thought about doing this for years, but the biggest problem being that on many cars A/C is automatically turned off at about 75% of full throttle. I'm not actually 100% sure if that is true on j-bodies or not. But needless to say, that is exactly when you're gonna need the inter-cooling the most. If that is true for J-bodies then this is a no-go
unless you go this route. But if the A/C is on @ WOT, then this is a pretty good solution since the A/C coolant can remove much more heat than can water. Although you could even do a hybrid water after-cooler system where the water can be A/C cooled.
As for doing a direct A/C cooling, I once found a company that made a great solution for a tube-shaped cooling passage that is ideal for use inside of custom intake manifolds(or I suppose some modified factory ones might be do-able), but unfortunately I lost the link to their page courtesy of hard drive death. Maybe I'll be able to find it but I can't even remember the company's name.
All in all though, the hardest(but not that hard) part is just rerouting A/C pipes - sending then to your intake rather than towards your heater core. Although... it might be possible to let it do both(switch between the two) by using valves. That would also be a good time to change to the most efficient refrigerant you can find.
I've never heard of this "part throttle" before. Does it just bolt on?
jhkj
Displacement= 2.2L
Valve Train= OHV
Bore & Stroke= 3.50 x 3.46
Compression Ratio= 9 to 1
Net HP @ RPM= 125 @ 5200
Maximum Torque Ft Lbs @ RPM= 135 @ 4000
Fuel System= MFI
Normal Oil Pressure: psi @ 3000 RPM= 56
Ford did do it, not sure if it was in production, it would cool the intake charge for about 30 seconds IIRC, it was good for a power boost, but I would say highly over rated, just spray the IC, ice the intake, or freeze the Water/Meth charge, and you would easily see some sub-zero temps.. you could put ice cubes in you water/meth, lol... that would be funny to see.
HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED
when ever i ran my Z24 at the track i always would put a bag of ice on it...LOL
Chris
'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08
BUt that PN is listed for GM RPO code LSJ, so id say its a 2 bar.
Chris
'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08
