I've looked at many posts and tried to see why my engine temps are so high since I've installed the Eco SC but so far, nothing!
I've went from no heat exchanger to running one and got about 5 degress or so out of that....added a CAI (from my previous WAI) and picked a few degress there too but still I hit upwards of 210 degress sometime!
I know that's not good but what else can I do to lower the engine temps or is that just something you get with the Eco SC or boost for that matter?
Would a colder plug help? If so, what one?
Also, I'm looking to swap out my exhaust (reference another post) so that may help as well but is there something I'm missing here??
Thanks!
Eh...old man with a Corvette now...it was bound to happen sooner rather than later right?
try flushing the cooling system and a new t-stat
i havent noticed any changes in the temp in the g/fs cav
My temp only moves past 195 when I sit for awhile without moving, but I have one step colder plugs, cai, heat exchanger, and exhaust, I dont remember the part number on my plugs right now, but when I get home I will post the part numbers
get water injection... from temps that high, water injection would help you millions....
coolingmist
devilsown
and others...
i have coolingmist 150psi pump, works great...
|Forged 8.9:1 Wiseco Pistons|Forged Eagle Rods|HPTuners|60trim|Tial Wastegate|
|Precision Intercooler|2.5" Exhaust|2.5" Charge Pipes|630CC Mototron Injectors|
|Stock: Fuel Pump, Transmission, Manifold, TB, Head, Head Gasket, Ignition, Suspension...|
don't add mods to cure a problem that shouldn't be there... my engine temps aren't any different than before the s/c...
14.425 @ 97.833 mph stock + GMPP s/c on drag radials.
my engine temps aren't any different than before
oh crap, i thought he said IAT's not engine temps...
|Forged 8.9:1 Wiseco Pistons|Forged Eagle Rods|HPTuners|60trim|Tial Wastegate|
|Precision Intercooler|2.5" Exhaust|2.5" Charge Pipes|630CC Mototron Injectors|
|Stock: Fuel Pump, Transmission, Manifold, TB, Head, Head Gasket, Ignition, Suspension...|
Mine runs a little warmer when I sit in traffic, but I still have a couple of things to finish the intercooler. I am doing a study on how to do the dual fans on the eco with the SC. More to follow on this.
I was told today that it might be due to running a little lean in the middle rpms? During daily driving kind of stuff you know?
It gets warm when I'm just driving around so it could be but I've not heard of that? Seems once I get on the car or it sits and idles...it won't get hot, only when I'm driving?
I may just flush the system and see what that does this weekend and then go from there.
Eh...old man with a Corvette now...it was bound to happen sooner rather than later right?
sounds like a cooling system problem.. do like 97trd said, flush and new t-stat probaby solve your problem right there
you should actually be running rich from the people i know using widebands
and from the way the plugs looked when i pulled them from the g/fs cav
Flush it this weekend then and get a new t-stat (provided I can find one around here!) and see where I am..thanks!
Eh...old man with a Corvette now...it was bound to happen sooner rather than later right?
Hope it works out for you.
I don't have any problems running hot unless I'm sitting in traffic.
I run really rich even while coasting. Like 10.8 in neutral coasting down a hill...
....stupid GM....
add more boost ^^^
1989 Turbo Trans Am #82, 2007 Cobalt SS G85
Admiral Jedi wrote:
I run really rich even while coasting. Like 10.8 in neutral coasting down a hill...
....stupid GM....
atleast the eco's are rich
my 2.4 was low 13's for afr
BlueDeuce (dnt02cavls) wrote:I was told today that it might be due to running a little lean in the middle rpms? During daily driving kind of stuff you know?
It gets warm when I'm just driving around so it could be but I've not heard of that? Seems once I get on the car or it sits and idles...it won't get hot, only when I'm driving?
I may just flush the system and see what that does this weekend and then go from there.
Well first off if your driving a boosted car i will assume you have a wideband and in all honest you should be looking at that gauge every couple of seconds while driving so you will know if your running lean during normal driving. Personally from what ive seen from the symptoms you describe it sounds like a clogged radiatior. Car is five years 4 years old wouldnt surprise me. But thats just a guess flushing the radiator will definately let you know if the system is nasty or not just watch what comes out. Good luck.
*2012 mazdaspeed3*
Dingus McGee Boost addict wrote:BlueDeuce (dnt02cavls) wrote:I was told today that it might be due to running a little lean in the middle rpms? During daily driving kind of stuff you know?
It gets warm when I'm just driving around so it could be but I've not heard of that? Seems once I get on the car or it sits and idles...it won't get hot, only when I'm driving?
I may just flush the system and see what that does this weekend and then go from there.
Well first off if your driving a boosted car i will assume you have a wideband and in all honest you should be looking at that gauge every couple of seconds while driving so you will know if your running lean during normal driving. Personally from what ive seen from the symptoms you describe it sounds like a clogged radiatior. Car is five years 4 years old wouldnt surprise me. But thats just a guess flushing the radiator will definately let you know if the system is nasty or not just watch what comes out. Good luck.
no need for a wideband when you get a kit from GM... A/F is guaranteed to be safe... when you start modding the kit is when you should get a wideband...
14.425 @ 97.833 mph stock + GMPP s/c on drag radials.
^^^ I have to laugh at that one, safe yes maybe, right or perfect, far from it
Id be willing to bet you could pick up at least 10hp fine tuning thier reflash (if they wernt such NAZIs with the program) , every engine is different and a general reflash isnt going to be perfect for everyone, its set up very very conservatively obviously for the life of the motor, not necessarily the hp or gas mileage end of things. Reguardless of who tuned the car or what you have, if your not running a wideband you shouldnt be running boost.
Say for instance your having a fuel pump issue, theres nothing on your dash thats going to tell you that, with a wideband you can spot a problem before it goes boom
1989 Turbo Trans Am #82, 2007 Cobalt SS G85
I have a narrow band right now but do have a wide band I'm ordering...just waiting for it to come out. It's a new one from AutoMeter Cobalt series.
I want everything to stay the same with my interior lighting (yeah I know...stupid!). All my gauges are the Cobalt series and it is suppose to be out this month.
I'm going to see about flushing the system this weekend and then go from there I think...thanks for all the help too!!
Eh...old man with a Corvette now...it was bound to happen sooner rather than later right?
Rodimus Prime wrote:^^^ I have to laugh at that one, safe yes maybe, right or perfect, far from it
Id be willing to bet you could pick up at least 10hp fine tuning thier reflash (if they wernt such NAZIs with the program) , every engine is different and a general reflash isnt going to be perfect for everyone, its set up very very conservatively obviously for the life of the motor, not necessarily the hp or gas mileage end of things. Reguardless of who tuned the car or what you have, if your not running a wideband you shouldnt be running boost.
Say for instance your having a fuel pump issue, theres nothing on your dash thats going to tell you that, with a wideband you can spot a problem before it goes boom
so in the same sentence you laugh but you also agree with me that the reflash is safe... good job lol...
I never pretended that the reflash was perfect, I simply said "not needed until you mod the kit"... talking strictly reliability here...
What you're saying is like saying when you buy a stock WRX you should get a wideband because "every engine is different and you're running boost".
You're not going to have a fuel pump issue with their reflash until you mod the kit that was engineered by GM (ie changing pulley size)...
I understand with that RSM tune why YOU would want to get a wideband...
If when you buy a kit you need to get other stuff too to make it reliable, then it was not a well engineered kit, which is obviously not the case with a GM s/c...
When you start wanting more power is when you should get diagnostics tools...
14.425 @ 97.833 mph stock + GMPP s/c on drag radials.
if your running boost you should have one, reguardless of the car
if it was a well engineered kit , it would have included a heat exchanger and a reflash that ppl could actually work with, also from what i hear AFRs arent all that efficient on the GM reflash
1989 Turbo Trans Am #82, 2007 Cobalt SS G85
Rodimus Prime wrote:if your running boost you should have one, reguardless of the car
if it was a well engineered kit , it would have included a heat exchanger and a reflash that ppl could actually work with, also from what i hear AFRs arent all that efficient on the GM reflash
the lockdown on HPTuners with the reflash is a business decision, has nothing to do with how well the reflash does the job...
and you saying the kit NEEDS an intercooler and that the AFRs aren't "efficient" is merely your opinion against GM's engineers' opinion... I wonder which takes precedence over the other...
when stock + gm s/ced cars start blowing engines, then you can start saying the kit needs intercooling to run.
14.425 @ 97.833 mph stock + GMPP s/c on drag radials.
Rodimus Prime wrote:if your running boost you should have one, reguardless of the car
oh yeah that argument is pretty stupid... there is NO VALID reason why grampa Smith needs a wideband unit in his brand new Volvo which just happens to be turboed.
14.425 @ 97.833 mph stock + GMPP s/c on drag radials.
DanteMustDie wrote:Rodimus Prime wrote:if your running boost you should have one, reguardless of the car
if it was a well engineered kit , it would have included a heat exchanger and a reflash that ppl could actually work with, also from what i hear AFRs arent all that efficient on the GM reflash
the lockdown on HPTuners with the reflash is a business decision, has nothing to do with how well the reflash does the job...
and you saying the kit NEEDS an intercooler and that the AFRs aren't "efficient" is merely your opinion against GM's engineers' opinion... I wonder which takes precedence over the other...
when stock + gm s/ced cars start blowing engines, then you can start saying the kit needs intercooling to run.
all boosted cars need an Intercooler and wideband period... no arguing that,,,,
LE61T PTE6262 Powered 
QBE (The Boosted One) wrote:
all boosted cars need an Intercooler and wideband period... no arguing that,,,,
again, your word against GMs... until you actually show me multiple ld9 or l61 s/ced cars that failed with the stock kit, I can argue about it all I want... because you have nothing to back up your claims...
BTW just to clear up something, I will NEVER actually recommend to anyone to have a non-factory turboed car without an intercooler on a custom kit or one that wasn't built from a company with a great reputation and who engineers design their kits, and if the tuning is custom, I will always say that you NEED a wideband to tune it properly yourself...
But in the case off mass-produced kits like the GM s/c, they wouldn't keep your warranty if they weren't sure 99.999 % that the kits can't fail with their reflash and no intercooling.
No matter what knowledge you might think you have in boosting cars, this is GM engineers we're talking about, and you can be sure they put enough r&d and torture-testing to that kit to ensure that they wouldn't have hundreds of engines to replace under warranty because of a poorly made kit...
14.425 @ 97.833 mph stock + GMPP s/c on drag radials.
