damn i'm so unlucky!! I've some probleme with my ecotec engine!! First of all my engine only has 20 000 miles on it!! I take a lot of oil!! it puff a lot of oil! I don't know why... maybe it could be my turbo oil pressure!! how much oil pressure shoul i send to the turbo??? It could be my piston rings... compresion is 180 on all 4 cylinder
the other problem has start only today! I feel like if it has a bad timing at hihg rpm rev!! I made a video( YOU MAKE LISTEN CAREFULLY TO EAR IT) I checked the compression, 180 on all 4 cylinder! I also checked my check engine code (always light on) the code is P0113........
I wish my engine wont die.... I only has 20 000 miles...
http://cavalierdomination.monchar.com
with out watching the vid
1) turbo seals leaking
2) oil drain back not high enough in the oil pan
3) kink or bad angle on the drain back
4) oil pressure to high going in the turbo(going by what alot of people say)
me i think it would be 1 of the top 3
sounds like a misfire.. check coil packs/sparkplugs
if its not that pop off your valve cover and make sure all your roller rockers are on right.. I know my friend popped on off of mine one time... sounded very similiar
LE61T PTE6262 Powered 
p0113 is a iat sensor short. bad wiring or bad sensor.
atp sells oil restrictors, solved my problem.
180 on all 4? are you on stock internals, if so thats not good
1989 Turbo Trans Am #82, 2007 Cobalt SS G85
mmm.. interesting. Sure one of ur injectors isnt' fcked up?
Nate
Evolution of Cavyboy-->C22t--> C24na--->c24s/c
1995 Cavalier W/2k1 Engine
GM S/C 13.940@99.78pmh w/2.068 60ft
180 compression and oil, thats a piston ring, buddy sorry
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Kick azz is my boost hero!!! 
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180 psi is still good compression.
Jeff F wrote:p0113 is a iat sensor short. bad wiring or bad sensor.
atp sells oil restrictors, solved my problem.
There's your two problems right there.
According the GM service manual I have...and this is a quote based of recollection and not reading it now..."The actual PSI is not of too mcuh concern as long as it is at a reasonable level. The concern is the % difference between cylinder. The lowest cylinder should be no more than 15% under the highest cylinder."
In other words you having 180PSI on all 4 indicates nothing until you get that oil problem solved. Once you clear that up you'll be able to see if the oil is causing a better seal or not. If so....it's time to tear that biatch apart.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
Engine Compression Test
Perform the following steps to conduct a compression test.
Conduct the following steps to check cylinder compression.
Engine should be at room temperature.
Disconnect wiring from the ignition module.
Remove the spark plugs.
Throttle body valve should be wide open.
Battery should be at or near full charge.
For each cylinder, crank engine through 4 compression strokes.
The lowest reading cylinder should not be less than 70 percent of the highest.
No cylinder reading should be less than 689 kPa (100 psi).
Important: The results of a compression test will fall into the following categories:
Normal -- Compression builds up quickly and evenly to specified compression on each cylinder.
Piston rings -- Compression is low on the first stroke, tends to build up on following strokes, but does not reach normal. Compression improves considerably with the addition of oil.
Valves -- Compression is low on the first stroke, does not tend to build up on the following strokes, and does not improve much with the addition of oil. Use approximately 3 squirts from a plunger-type oiler
Sunfires... eh (Tom) wrote:Engine Compression Test
Perform the following steps to conduct a compression test.
Conduct the following steps to check cylinder compression.
Engine should be at room temperature.
Disconnect wiring from the ignition module.
Remove the spark plugs.
Throttle body valve should be wide open.
Battery should be at or near full charge.
For each cylinder, crank engine through 4 compression strokes.
The lowest reading cylinder should not be less than 70 percent of the highest.
No cylinder reading should be less than 689 kPa (100 psi).
Important: The results of a compression test will fall into the following categories:
Normal -- Compression builds up quickly and evenly to specified compression on each cylinder.
Piston rings -- Compression is low on the first stroke, tends to build up on following strokes, but does not reach normal. Compression improves considerably with the addition of oil.
Valves -- Compression is low on the first stroke, does not tend to build up on the following strokes, and does not improve much with the addition of oil. Use approximately 3 squirts from a plunger-type oiler
yes i tryed with oil in all 4 cylinder after getting 180PSI and after putting oil it sill getting to 180 PSI! I really think my oil problem is with my oil pressure on my turbo!! how much psi should it normaly be for turbo oil pressure?
http://cavalierdomination.monchar.com
man this site is obsessed with compression tests, compression test is proven useless in this situation yet again. Do the cylinder leak down test, theat will get you a 100% for sure answer on the condition of the rings, form them start looking into turbo oiling feed and return
well first rule u should go by is let your car fully warm up before spooling the turbo..... try using a restrictor on ur turbo to see if it helps.
blown turbo seal
Is it smoking at idle? or just when you romp on it?
I had the same problem, and it ended up being my seals.
get an oil restrictor from ATP or something. It fixed my problem. (after a rebuild)
not sure if it was said but do you have a Oil restricter at all? if not go to ATP turbo and order one with the adapter plate ..
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
ok i will buy a oil restricter!! I dont have any I juste have a sort of valve on my oil line! for my problem of power it seem to be resolve by itself! I havent touch anything and my full power is back WTF!!
http://cavalierdomination.monchar.com
were did you buy the turbo from. i know ssautochrome and ebay turbos have bad weak seals and need a restrictor on the feed line. also make sure your return line has no kinks in it and flow as straight as possible downward as to not build up pressure in the turbo.
Darkstars wrote:man this site is obsessed with compression tests, compression test is proven useless in this situation yet again. Do the cylinder leak down test, theat will get you a 100% for sure answer on the condition of the rings, form them start looking into turbo oiling feed and return
True.
But not everyone knows how to use a leak down tester or has access to a air compressor. The compression test is preliminary. I have an interesting compression test story. lol. 9-3 with an ecotec engine came in not starting. Everything checked out except for compression. So I do a wet compression test and the pressure goes up to 200+ psi. So I was like @!#$, it needs an engine (we don't mess around,lol). I put it back together, and try and start it. Car starts right up, and continues running. Wtf! I let all the oil burn out. And recheck the compression and all cylinders are 200+. It still needed a clutch put in, but the car is still running to this day.
Sorry for the off topic post. Just thought I'd share.
Turbo Oil Pressures: unless otherwise recommended by manufacturer.
Anything over 65 psi is considered excessive
0.5 L /min flow rate at idle
2 L/min at high rpm - journal bearing turbo
1.5L/min at high rpm - bb turbos
