ok, so my turbocharger smokes at idle and I called the place I bought the turbo from and they said that if my return was to low on my oil pan that I would get oil build up in my center section. So I pulled off my oil return and the oil level is above the level of the oil return. Don't get me wrong the oil return still is 6" at least above the oil level, but the oil return bung is as high as I can get it, but I still get oil pouring out of the bung when I remove it. I have the 2.3 swap done and my oil pump is way lower... can I get away with running a much lower oil level, or where should I move my bung to, so I can stop burning oil?? thanks this is what I am using.


HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED

yea, your pickup is lower with the 2.3 pump swap, so if you run the normal 4.5 qrts, you should be fine..... also remember, when the engine is off the oil level will be higher in the pan.... meaning that when its running, the return should be well above the oil level.




SPD RCR Z - '02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT - '04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI - '78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap

good call, I was kinda thinking about that too. I run almost 6 liters of oil in my car to have it at the full mark. I was just curious what everyone else has been doing to prevent this from happening? When I get home from work I will pull that line off and drain all the oil out (till the level of the bung or slightly higher) and run it then and see if it still smoked. If the smoking stops then I guess I gotta make sure that I run low enough on oil to prevent that from backing up in the future. For track use I could still fill it up higher just to decrease oil duty cycle and ensure the pickup is always under oil... but being almost a full inch lower than the factory pump in that pan you would think that should be good enough.


HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED

let me ask you a question, i noticed your bung is right above your drain bolt. Mine is the same place but i forgot about tha steel radiator hose that leads to the bottom radiotr hose. I rigged up spomething to get aropund that, what did you do?

^^^ same deal man, I had to do some extensive modding to get that to fit around. When I brought my extra pan in, I completely forgot about that hose. I was so pissed when I was bolting everything together. But it seems to work good aside from the oil that my turbo is burning... only at idle.


HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED

Do you have a restrictor on your feed line to the turbo? If not, get one in there asap. Too much oil into the turbo will make it smoke out the back like mad.

try running it with 5 instead of 6 and see how that helps

I think I run 5.5 right now....... with the Miller-Performance pan........




SPD RCR Z - '02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT - '04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI - '78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap

I am going to pull that return off, and let the oil run below that level and hopefully that will stop the smoking, then I will pull the dipstick and mark it about 1/4" about that level, and I will still have the return freed up, and then measure the oil when I do an oil change, I will keep you posted. thanks guys


HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED

If you don't mind me asking... What specifically did you guys use to get past that hard coolant line?

I have my return closer to the trans- but its a pain w/ the auto transmission to install it... I have to install the fitting & return line on the pan itself then install the oil pan in the car to squeeze past the trans.. PAIN IN MY ASS !!!

I only have to deal with it for another season due to a 5 speed swap, but if I can make it easier now- I will..

Thanks!

i cut the round section of the pipe with the flange off then cut the other round section of the pipe at the other end. I bought a big long radiator hose and cut to fit..Sthe pipe with the flange bolts right up and i used a hose clamp to hold it on.On the other end the existing radiator hose and the new radiator hose are connected with the piece of round pipe i cut and 2 hose clamps

RedDevil wrote:If you don't mind me asking... What specifically did you guys use to get past that hard coolant line?

I have my return closer to the trans- but its a pain w/ the auto transmission to install it... I have to install the fitting & return line on the pan itself then install the oil pan in the car to squeeze past the trans.. PAIN IN MY ASS !!!

I only have to deal with it for another season due to a 5 speed swap, but if I can make it easier now- I will..

Thanks!

go to page 4 - http://www.cardomain.com/id/97cavie24ls

you can see the pics of mine i had no drain back issues , and didnt have any problems with the coolant pipe

i used a 45 degree an fitting , and it cleared the auto just fine , i did have to grind a relief in the block so i could tighten the hose up