Okay, I'm sure someone will tell me I'm an idiot but I could use some help figuring out how to read and compare compressor maps. I've gotten pretty used to just knowing what works and what doesn't, since I mostly work on Mitsubishi engines, but this Cavalier project is obviously going to require a different approach. It's kind of hard to compare maps if I don't know what I'm reading. Maybe someone can give me some insight, tell me what I need and where. It's easy to say "Everyone says the T3 Super60 is the best" and go with that, but what works for one car might not work for me. Hahn uses Mitsubishi turbos, they have 16G turbos for instance, but I'm sure their maps are different than that of the 16G I have in the garage. I just want to be able to compare and make an educated decision. No more trial and error.
Ryan's a funny guy... LOL.. You'd be surprised, there's quite a few arses on here that'd give a guy ish about that. But out of all the guys I hang with in the VR4 club, NONE of us truely understand compressor maps. A few of us have a vague idea, but like I said, we jsut know what works. It's easy when you can use factory components to upgrade. Can't really do that with the ole Cavy lol...
But thanks for the links, bro.
Compressor maps are your friend
Also, I have a spreadsheet if you'd like it (basic or ultra-complicated...your choice, I have both)
Another good link:
this is where the complicated spreadsheet came from
PJ's thread:
The good part starts where I posted my plots...
When calculating VE, it's helpful to have a program like dyno2000 which can run a simulation and give you a very close figure, especially if you've input your flowbench numbers.
fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
Thanks, Notec. Tell you what, if you want, send me both the spreadsheets. I'm going to sit down tonight and read up on this stuff. I'm pretty sure the turbo I want to use will work, but it'd help to look at the map and know for sure. I unfortunately don't have a dyno program, hell I don't even have a computer since the hard drive on my laptop fried. I'm going to be running a reman'd engine, unless I can have my current engine rebuilt for less. After losing the oil pump and a lifter this weekend, I have a feeling I'll be buying a motor. It's running, I replaced the pump and all the lifters, but it's a total bandaid fix and I don't expect it to last long. Anyway.
I'm only going to be running 8psi, 10 tops. IT's a street car, I really don't need anything massive. Does it matter that I want to rear mount it? I might need a slightly smaller turbine, or whattaya think?
I'd possibly go with a smaller turbine since you'll lose some energy by the time the exhaust gets there. However, I would never remote mount it on a LN2 since it's so incredibly easy (and cheaper) to mount it off he head. I'll send you the spreadsheets right now.
fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
Also, for anyone looking to turbo a stock cam 2.2L or 2200, your VE estimates should be about:
3k - 80%
4k - 75%
5k - 65%
6k - 55%
head work would bump these up a little of course
fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
Thanks, Josh. Those VE numbers will come in handy, too. As far as the remote mount, I know it's not the most efficient way, and I know there's room under the hood. I've got my own reasons for doing the remote mount, though. Besides, we all know I tend to go against the grain on things - Shelby Daytona wheels instead of aftermarket, make a header instead of buying one off the shelf...
Trust me, I'm definately not "with" the grain...who else would dump $5k into an LN2? I also have Celica rims on one car, and hopefully Grand Prix rims soon. My turbo manifold is just a T3 flange welded to an old 2.0L NA manifold...
fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
