Hi, ok as you guys know a am still pretty new to the turbo world after installing my hahn stage 2. however, i am not satisfied so far with there product. first off, no one told me i would have to lose my windshield washer tank, no one told me i owuld have to lose my foglight, besides that. after i installed my turbo i was fairly happy with it since it was giving me some serious power. roughly now 1 1/2 weeks after it seems like the power isnt nearly as much as it used to be. Its not the fact that I am getting used to the power, its the fact that there actually is being power lost somehow, i used to be able to melt the damn tires in second gear when the boost kicked in, now for some reason i will be lucky to chirp them. So i was wondering do any of you have suggestions on what might be the problem? i have retightened all the bolts like the manual recommends, and have rechecked all the couplers and fasteners and they check out ok. so like whats going on?
Quote:
first off, no one told me i would have to lose my windshield washer tank
well not to be a smartass but... where else did u think u would run the charge piping??
Quote:
roughly now 1 1/2 weeks after it seems like the power isnt nearly as much as it used to be. Its not the fact that I am getting used to the power, its the fact that there actually is being power lost somehow, i used to be able to melt the damn tires in second gear when the boost kicked in, now for some reason i will be lucky to chirp them. So i was wondering do any of you have suggestions on what might be the problem? i have retightened all the bolts like the manual recommends, and have rechecked all the couplers and fasteners and they check out ok. so like whats going on?
you have a boost gauge? is your boost dropping? whats your air fuel under boost?
the whole melt the tires thing.. maybe your stock clutch is slowly loosing life? after almost a year on 12-14psi and a stock clutch. i could barly chirp 2nd gear. but it still pulled hard. and if i rolled into it in 2nd or 3rd. it was fine.
the 16g on a stock eco is almost a perfect match. u dont really "feel" the power. its just a smooth pull all the way to redline. compaired to say a larger turbo on a honda. it just "kicks" in at say 4-5k rpms. hence giving that feeling of mass power.
http://www.myspace.com/15102113
do you have a boost gauge and a wideband? if not get em especially the wideband i had a bad fpr from hahn and i was running 15:1afr under boost and had no power at all... but when i got new regulator i running 11.9:1 afr and i spin my tires in 3rd gear and they are racing tires.. so need some more info on afr and if you even boosting at all
Ok, well my autometer boost/vac and air/fuel gauges are on there way. they should be here middle of the week. However, i already know i am running super rich because the engine light came on and i work at GM and the code reader gave out the Rich Fuel code. plus i can see the black residue left on my exhaust pipes..
that black residue is caused by not having a cat... cant really tell until you get your gauges.... and make sure it is a wideband like innovate or the aem uego
well i asked the guy i bought it from and he said it is a wideband gauge.
Autometer doesn't sell wideband gauges.
Shoot me an IM. I'll get you a price quote on the AEM and Innovate WB systems.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
great so the guy lied to me.. just what i needed. my msn isnt working so can u quote me a price on here? thanks
Team Vision Racing (aka hypsy) wrote:Autometer doesn't sell wideband gauges.
Shoot me an IM. I'll get you a price quote on the AEM and Innovate WB systems.
Actually they do Ryne, its a new product line.
And to the OP, I'm betting you have a boost leak.
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well where should i look for it... any ideas?
Autometer is finally making a WB gauge? Something they should have done YEARS ago! Well maybe they finally learned that some of us don't care about making our gauges flash a million colors and that we want gauges that are effective. Maybe next they'll make a boost gauge with a 1 tick zero point.....NAH. That would be impossible for them.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
so our ecotecs have the 4 wire sensors?
Yes they do. Your going to need to invest in a WB O2 sensor too...not just the gauge. Hence why I suggest the Innovate LM1 system.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
I can't give you a price other than the minimum retail price on this site. Send me an email or IM and I'll give you your price.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
could you email me a price, wmskateteam@aol.com, on that wideband setup. i didn't know i needed a wideband for HP tuners...
Is it possible you've been running so rich and the cat is clogged?
hahn stage 2 doesnt have a cat. maybe fowling plugs? i dont see how someone could run that rich with the stage 2 kit unless the injectors are alot larger.
http://www.myspace.com/15102113
Emails sent.
With the standard 32# injectors and the stock PCM tune the car idles in the 12:1 AFR range, normally in the upper 12s though. That's why the code sets and why you smell fuel with the setup. Get the HPT working for you and you can tune it down though. Will help get rid of that code and get you some MPG back.
With my 40# injectors and the HPT tune I have it idling and running around 14.7:1 anytime I'm not racing. I have picked up IMMENSE MPG gains. I can now get 26MPG city and 30+MPG highway. Oh and no more rich codes.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
i have the hahn stage 2 and i idle at 14.5 and only throw a catalyst efficiency code..
Ok, so this comes to my second question, i was doing some reading and read that the O2 sensor constantyl takes reading of the air that passes through the exhaust and sends a signal back as to whether to keep the injectors open for longer (morefuel) or shorter spans (less fuel) to correct that air/fuel ratio. so how come my O2 sensor doesnt seem to be doing that?
This is how the fuel system works:
2 modes of operation (actually there are 4, but this is the simplistic view)...
1. Closed loop
This is when the ECU looks at the O2 sensor for feedback and adjusts the fuel accordingly. The adjustments are called trims. There are long term trims and short term trims. If the short term trim is high for a specific period of time, the long term fuel trim is adjusted. The ECU is only in closed loop during warm idle, cruise, and easy accelerations.
2. Open Loop
The ECU ignores the O2 sensor during open loop and calculates fuel based on the VE tables. During acceleration this is called Power Enrich mode, where the ECU tries to use more fuel to create more power, running at an A/F ratio much higher than the stoich 14.7:1. Since the stock O2 sensor is only accurate at stoich, its feedback is ignored and the fuel is calculated from the VE, PE, and a couple other tables. Closed loop is also used during deceleration where the a/f ratio is leaned out to 18:1 or leaner.
Now, you have to remember, those tables in the ECU are calibrated for STOCK injectors, you throw bigger injectors on there and an FMU, and you're bound to hit rich codes. BTW, rich codes are only set during open loop.
4cyltuner.com - Information Source For 4 Cylinder Tuners
Buy stuff from CarCustoms Ebay! Won't be disappointed!
^^^^^^^^^^^^
smart man.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
John H [Cavalierkid wrote:]Quote:
first off, no one told me i would have to lose my windshield washer tank
well not to be a smartass but... where else did u think u would run the charge piping??
Quote:
roughly now 1 1/2 weeks after it seems like the power isnt nearly as much as it used to be. Its not the fact that I am getting used to the power, its the fact that there actually is being power lost somehow, i used to be able to melt the damn tires in second gear when the boost kicked in, now for some reason i will be lucky to chirp them. So i was wondering do any of you have suggestions on what might be the problem? i have retightened all the bolts like the manual recommends, and have rechecked all the couplers and fasteners and they check out ok. so like whats going on?
you have a boost gauge? is your boost dropping? whats your air fuel under boost?
the whole melt the tires thing.. maybe your stock clutch is slowly loosing life? after almost a year on 12-14psi and a stock clutch. i could barly chirp 2nd gear. but it still pulled hard. and if i rolled into it in 2nd or 3rd. it was fine.
the 16g on a stock eco is almost a perfect match. u dont really "feel" the power. its just a smooth pull all the way to redline. compaired to say a larger turbo on a honda. it just "kicks" in at say 4-5k rpms. hence giving that feeling of mass power.
lol if you want wimpy numbers
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