A few of my friends are going to help me get started on a custom turbo setup but I need to get some things clarified.

First, I need to know what sources you recommend for a turbo manifold. I know that most of us around here are running Garrett turbos or at least some sort of T3 style turbo. Since I'm also in the VR4 club, as are most of my friends, it would be fairly easy to get my hands on a Mitsubishi unit. But it's my understanding the flanges would be different. If anyone knows where to get a manifold with a compatible flange, that'd be excellent.

Second is the fuel. I already know that the best bet is to do the top-feed with a 2200 rail and injectors. I've got that part covered, but I have yet to find a machine shop in my area that's willing to modify my manifold. Is this something I can do in my garage? The only local boy I know for a fact has done this was Emry and he's never around here anymore and I haven't seen anything of him on the JBOI site either. I could use some insight on this. I can figure out the plenum spacer but I don't know about the injectors. If I'm correct, I need the rail, injectors, injector harnesses, and the fuel rail. Anything else?

And lastly, by going this way and piecing parts together, what suppliers do you recommend for downpipes and all that? I plan to make all the charge pipes and I'll likely use a DSM or Galant intercooler unless I find something better that isn't terribly expensive.

first get a manifold... their are several places to get a manifold... Then go and get it jet coated.
turbonetics makes a adaptor flange to take a t3 to the mitsu turbo's...
fuel fuel fuel fuel... the most simple and cost effective way to do that would be an extra injector controller... their are many of these around 34efi makes a good oneas well as mega squirt...
If you have any questions I have no problem helping you. I will basicly tell you everything i did the wrong way and you do it the opposit... haha I will also say this... don't rush.. take your time. add fuel... and kep boost down till you have a


horsepower is how hard you hit the wall, Torque is how far you push the wall with you

a lot of the parts i used for my OHV turbo setup came from atpturbo.com. very good site and very fast shipping. i got my turbo manifold from ebay, it was only like $190 shipped. downpipe will have to be custom made, no one makes a downpipe for us. i think the hahn kit for the 2200 might have a downpipe but i'm not sure.

as far as the topfeed goes, you already seem to have a good grasp of whats needed. manifold, fuel rail, injectors and harness and you're good to go. if you are mechanically inclined, i'd say you could do the topfeed conversion on your own. it would save you a good bit of money.

Josh I just checked out your profile and all I can say is... EFFIN YEAH MAN!!!!

Now, when you talk about having an extra injector controller, you're talking about having an extra injector to provide enrichment under boost, correct? I've thought about this, but I have concerns with pooling, backflashes, that sort of thing. I'm leary about putting an injector in front of the TB. I can see things going very badly by doing so.

I will likely be keeping under 8 or 9 psi after I get everything started as this will still be my daily driver and I'm going to be running on a reman'd motor - unless I can rebuild the current one for cheaper, which with all the costs of having the block and head cleaned, all the new parts, etc., a long block might be just as easy to do.

The fuel is something I will definitely be keeping in check. I plan to run a 4.3 Vortec fuel pump and an adjustable fuel reg, and of course if I convert to a 2200 rail that gives me options for injectors. I'm still on the fence with what way to go with tuning. HP seems like the best bet but I could probably get away with a piggyback if I have to. At this point I just want to start getting the parts together.

BTW, I googled "34efi" and the results I got were pretty much useless.

it's not that great man... I have been doing it for about 4 years and really got nowhere till this year... I decided to stop fawking around and get serious... the internals are on their way the internals are on their way...
anyways it was 034efi sorry
send me an e-mail if you have any questions... find a exhaust shop and make friends.


034 efi




horsepower is how hard you hit the wall, Torque is how far you push the wall with you

Cool, thanks, man. I'll be talking to you here pretty quick. I'd love to hear what you've done. Like you said, you've already made some mistakes so you can give me some insight to what works and doesn't.

I also forgot to mention, one of the turbochargers I have access to is an EVO III 16G unit. The specs are (if I'm correct) TD05H turbine, TB03 compressor, capable of flowing 550cfm. I think that's right. Technically it's a "Super" 16G. Also, one of my friends is switching out for an 18B when his new motor gets finished and he'll pretty much jsut give me the stock 14B if it'd work, but we're worried that it'd actually be a bit too small - even though he's getting 15psi out of it right now. If really need be I can run a T3 style turbo but all I know is Mitsu. I'm not too familiar with the Gattett units.

I highly recommend the 034efi controller. I myself will be using the extra injector controller on my ln2. I have never head of anyone having problems with pudling when using this system. For the money I belive that this unit is by far the best thing out there.


200 wheelhorse or bust

There was another post a while back about the Importperformanceparts.net turbo kit. It uses a 5th injector with a separate controller - much like this 034efi setup - I just came back from reading a little about it, BTW - and there were some that were concerned with this pooling issue. Have I heard of this actually happening? No. It's something I'm simply concerned with. I've seen this sort of thing happen with NO2 setups - rarely, but it's happened - and much like NO2, I'm sure that in the event that fuel did pool inside the manifold and ignite, we're talking about a lot of damage here.

But, moving on... For fuel it seems my two best options are either convert to topfeed and tune with HP software, or use this EFI controller with a slave injector. Hmm... Now the way I understood the description on the website, this controller comes with software to tune the extra injectors, and it only controls the extra injectors by using the MAP and RPM to adjust, while the factory ECU operates as normal. Right? So if that's the case, then first, how do I keep the AFRs in check if the two ECUs are running independent from each other? Wouldn't there need to be some sort of link between the two? Or is this COMPLETELY different from a piggyback unit? And second, where would be the optimum place to add the injector(s)? If I have to add them to the manifold, it'd almost be just as easy to go ahead and do the topfeed conversion.


Edited 2 time(s). Last edited Thursday, September 07, 2006 2:25 PM

as far as your concern about fuel pooling... their should not be much fuel to pool on your setup... we have a metal manifold that is preaty simple and just 4 runners... 1 not plastic and could withstand a small detonation. 2 does not curl to leave a low spot for fuel to pool.

as far as a efi and jtunners. jtunners is a great program it will allow you to do a lot... it will take a little more tunning on your behalf. but the suplemental injector that you will use will be able to let your stock injectors run at a lower duty cycle...

the 034 efi has a great user interface that allows fuel enrichment tables of 20 rpm's or so i think.
My sugestion would be to use the 034 efi before you get j tunners... jet that running real good and then use j tunners to mess with timming.

As far as me and my mistakes... it all came from the charge piping... it is a pain in the arse to get someone to weld this for you... so I took autozone crush bent crap and welded it myself... it was complete garbage the difference between that and what i have now... Night and day difference...

a nother thing is fuel for some strange reason my 96 pcm and huge cadalac fuel pump have a big fluctuation because of ambient air temperature and fuel level...

i can drive at a full tank and a 70 degree day and be pig rich all day... but if it gets 80+ or my fuel gets low i'm red red red on my a/f..

next comes manifolds... I told you to get yours jet coated because it will crack... now that i'm on my 3rd manifold this one has made it a wile and should be good...


oh yeah and my big problem by fawking car fell on me 4 days before the st. lewis bash durring the turbo install that sucked balls


horsepower is how hard you hit the wall, Torque is how far you push the wall with you

I have a lot of his ^^^ old parts lol (If you want them back just let me know, since I don't need a lot of them )

Manifold: if you have some welding capabilities, check out the old 2.0L conversion. I plan on reusing mine on the new motor. It costs ~$30 if you have to buy a flange This also allows you to use any flange you want.
If you don't know how to weld...learn , or make friends

fuel: you could also go with the rebic extra injector controller, I think it may have a few more options with the add-ons. Personally, I don't like the 5th injector concept either because of the chance of puddling in the charge pipe.
From Emry: "Since the body of the injector goes in the manifold i just used a diegrinder to make the original bungs work, i didnt worry about getting it to big or not considering on all gms, and ford they only support the nozzle and the feed section on the injector. Then i took a 17/32" bit to make the hole the right size where the nozzle goes into. There's no way the injectors going to leak doing it this way, it press' in tight where you can pick the manifold up by the injector lol, but it doesnt push in so tight that it will ruin the oring." He did his top-feed with basic power hand tools. I'm going to try one this way and see how it goes.

Charge pipes: large radiator hoses work...really (just get some decent clamps)

If you want a Mitsu turbo and want a manufactured manifold, contact Hahn since they use the Mitsus. I'm sure he'll sell you a mani seperately.
Personally, I think my SVO/XR4ti turbo was very well-matched to the motor, and they're very cheap and easy to find. Also, with a log mani and the factory Ford O2 housing, half the downpipe is already done

As far as an intercooler is concerned, I really liked Tony G's top-mount Saab setup, but you have to cut up your hood for that.



fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.

OHV notec wrote:
fuel: you could also go with the rebic extra injector controller, I think it may have a few more options with the add-ons. Personally, I don't like the 5th injector concept either because of the chance of puddling in the charge pipe.
From Emry: "Since the body of the injector goes in the manifold i just used a diegrinder to make the original bungs work, i didnt worry about getting it to big or not considering on all gms, and ford they only support the nozzle and the feed section on the injector. Then i took a 17/32" bit to make the hole the right size where the nozzle goes into. There's no way the injectors going to leak doing it this way, it press' in tight where you can pick the manifold up by the injector lol, but it doesnt push in so tight that it will ruin the oring." He did his top-feed with basic power hand tools. I'm going to try one this way and see how it goes.

thats exactly how i did my topfeed conversion

Yeah I can kind of weld but nothing spectacular. It's something I learned in high school, and ten years later it's just something I use when I have no alternative. On the upside, one of my closest friends happens to have some sick welding skills so I have that option.

I really would prefer to do a top-feed, just because I know it works, I don't have to worry about whether the extra injector is working right or if it's atomizing properly or whatever - and it's been done enough times that there's examples to refer to. And I'd find it much easier to tune one set of injectors rather than two. The ONLY thing I don't like about doing a top-feed is the need for a plenum spacer, mostly because it's one more thing I have to make or have made. Even still, I'm willing to bet it'd be cheaper - but I could be wrong about that.

The charge pipes will be aluminum, if only for a cleaner install. Most likely I'll do a layout similar to how Josh did his. I just like the way it's all out in his profile. For the intercooler I'm considering a side-mount Galant VR4 unit, we have a few laying around from doing front-mount conversions. I could mount it so that it's behind the grill opening but still allows plenty of air to reach the radiator. For the little amount of boost I'm planning on, it'd be plenty big enough.

extea injector should be about 6" from the tb... no pooling in charge piping should occur...

the injectors for our car sit in the fuel rail wich is cast to our intake manifold... I really would be more scared of a injector o ring leaking because of my crappy dremel job...i don't know i doo need more fuel though..... haha



horsepower is how hard you hit the wall, Torque is how far you push the wall with you

Josh Csepegi (CUYOTE) wrote:the injectors for our car sit in the fuel rail wich is cast to our intake manifold... I really would be more scared of a injector o ring leaking because of my crappy dremel job...i don't know i doo need more fuel though..... haha

Yeah, why they integrated the fuel rail into the manifold I'll never understand. Makes zero sense, even from a maintanance standpoint...

But I did a little more research and here's a question. If I run one of these EIC units and a 5th injector, do I still need an FMU and adjustable pressure reg, or will this eliminate the need since the injector will run independent from the factory system?

I would use something to bump up base fuel pressure up just a bit... since you are driving 5 injector's instead of just 4.


horsepower is how hard you hit the wall, Torque is how far you push the wall with you

See, that's what I was thinking too. I figured if I run the Vortec fuel pump as planned, I could do an adjustable reg and do it that way. The brain from the injector kit IS the FMU in this case... ...right?

Im working on my top feed conversion right now and i just used a die grinder and some carbide burrs to make the holes bigger for the injectors... easy as pie if you ask me...


http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2090440

ok so mine wasn't easy to do, but so far I've not had ANY problems at all.. no leaks, and the car purrs like a kitten.

it did also cost me 14-16 hours of labour (my own labour)

I love the fact that I can't do these conversions anymore, since I got a new job and can't do car stuff there