Ok Im boosted now, but im having a few problems:
#1- Where Do I connect the Boost controller, It DOES go to a pressure side so that it opens the wastegate right(just to make shure im not retarded) If So, one of the lines on the TB connects to the top side of the Butterfly so when I Tee into it I should get pressure right? Well im not....
#2 Where EXACTLY do I connect the Boost guage, I had it inline with the feed line to the boost controler and its showing no boost...at all
#3 Shouldent My wastegate be sligly open at Idle?
#4- Tbolts and Silicone couplers, why is it that I floor it witht he boost controller set to 0 that they keep blowing apart?
#5- Is 6PSI Safe for an Intercooled 2200 with stock fuel.
#6- What should I set my FPR to for 6PSI?
nd stuff I would just like to say:
The ENTIRE oil system on the 2200 is RETARDED! The Pressure censor ALMOST required taking of the WHOLE intake manifold!
The Return line from the turbo is ALSO retarded, I had a wastegate pipe, exaust pipe, Charge Piping, and a BIG arse wirign harness in my way!!!
I hate anyone who did this easier than me!!!
Im ordering a little tuning software for some rouch tuning in the garrage friday so that will lead more into fixing everything
well chazz let me tbe the first to say you suck for being boosted before me.
any way i have no clue about any of that stuff so make sure you learn all you can so you can help me next
for sale pm me or e-mail me for details
the only pic I have cause my cam is dead as he11
1) can't help you on this one, i've never used a boost controller
2) i had my boost gauge connected to a vacuum line that ran from the manifold to the map sensor, i also had a check valve on there so that the map sensor would not see boost
3) not sure about that one either
4)i'm not sure why you're blowing the connectors off. i had that problem initially when i was using worm gear clamps, but once i switched to tbolt clamps it never happened again.
5) stock fuel system plus 6 psi is a bad idea. if you are running larger injectors you should be fine, but stock injectors will clip at 4 psi i think
6) your fpr should be set to whatever psi you calculate using the formula in the fuel faq. since you said you were using your stock fuel system/injectors, that fpr isn't much help. the fpr is for turning down the idle psi for larger than stock injectors. if you are using stock injectors, set it to the stock psi
and yes, the oil system is retarded. its so much easier to get all that stuff done if you remove the intake manifold.
my oil return line dumped into the oil dipstick tube, that was easier than dropping the pan and tapping it
My return is also In the Dipstick tube, I was planning to put it on the pan...till i looked at it lol
The Map sensor is next to the oil press sensor isint it? thats what Line I had the controller and guage connected to, saw NO boost there or vacume, dunno what that line was?
Ill have to read the Fuel FAQ again its been a while, then ill have to check into injectors...
I dont see any sort of rising rate fuel pressure regulator there. What are you doing to deliver more fuel under boost?
You said you were ordering tuning software, so I dont believe you have any yet.
That Adjustable FPR is only good for idle pressures, and WOT, but nothing in boost.
Is it at least boost referenced 1:1? Cause if not, your fuel pressure will actually drop as boost increases, though you wont see it on the gauge.
Why you're not building boost? You probably have a big air leak somewhere in the system. Check ALL your connections.
Also, as good as T-Bolt clamps are, I think it would help if you weld a nice bead on the end of every chargepipe. I've been running 9lbs for 2 months now, and not once have I had a blow out. It gives the clamp something to fall back on. Remember the more connections you have with silicone couplers the higher chance of one popping off.
If you're not seeing boost on your gauge, you have it hooked up incorrectly. I tapped mine right onto my manifold, but thats because its aluminum.
I know Lee made a 'vacuum/boost manifold' of several T's so he could run whatever he needed off of those.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Sunday, August 20, 2006 6:48 AM
If you keep blowing connections off get hair spray and constant torque clamps. As far as the boost controller it should be inline with your wastegate actuator line. The boost contoller is just a restriction so that the wastegate won't see the correct amount of pressure.
#1- Where Do I connect the Boost controller, It DOES go to a pressure side so that it opens the wastegate right(just to make shure im not retarded) If So, one of the lines on the TB connects to the top side of the Butterfly so when I Tee into it I should get pressure right? Well im not....
no idea, sorry
#2 Where EXACTLY do I connect the Boost guage, I had it inline with the feed line to the boost controler and its showing no boost...at all
tap manifold or look for a port... my eco plastic manifold had a port... t it and run it to your map sensor, bov, and your boost gauge... all of those things need to see VACCUM AND BOOST....
#3 Shouldent My wastegate be sligly open at Idle?
No.... run a vaccum hose from nipple on your charge pipes (t 'ed) and run it to your wastegate and your afpr.... wastegate should only open under near full boost... it knows what full boost... to change "full boost" put a boost controller between the charge pipes and the wastegate... i dont know how they work but you put it between and turn the nossle and it turns up the boost, i think it has to do with modulateing the air that is getting to the wastegate.... thats a manual boost controller i have no idea about a electric one because i havent gotten one yet 
#4- Tbolts and Silicone couplers, why is it that I floor it witht he boost controller set to 0 that they keep blowing apart?
If your boost controller is not hooked up yet then you dont know how much boost you are running, which means you shouldnt floor it... if you dont have a line going to the wastegate then you are running some serious boost... and you would also probably have blown your motor by now so i doubt you dont have it there yet... but get your boost gauge installed and find out when this happens... make sure you tighten the t-bolt clamps very well and hair spray will help for grip, but you shouldnt need it...
#5- Is 6PSI Safe for an Intercooled 2200 with stock fuel.
no boost is safe on stock fuel. get injectors, afpr, and something that can add fuel per boost.... hptuners, fmu, ms, something, anything
no boost is safe on any stock fuel system... why would GM give you bigger injectors then what is needed to run your stock NA car? just incase you want to turbo it? lol, get a fuel system on there!!! AND GET A WIDEBAND!!!
#6- What should I set my FPR to for 6PSI?
you set your fuel pressure regulator to something dependant on what injectors you have... if you have stock set it to what the stock pressure is, if you have bigger injectors then set it lower... i have bosch 440's green tops, and my fuel pressure is set to 40psi right now
i hope this helped...
if anyone sees a mistake in what i said, please correct me... i have an ecotec so any differences would be a mistake, but, i think most of the stuff i wrote is universal stuff... good luck man!! congrats on the boost!!
|Forged 8.9:1 Wiseco Pistons|Forged Eagle Rods|HPTuners|60trim|Tial Wastegate|
|Precision Intercooler|2.5" Exhaust|2.5" Charge Pipes|630CC Mototron Injectors|
|Stock: Fuel Pump, Transmission, Manifold, TB, Head, Head Gasket, Ignition, Suspension...|
- Boost controller... there will be a line that goes from the turbo to the wastegate actuator. It goes inbetween this connection... the in side comes from the turbo, out side goes to the wastegate actuator.
- Get a signal from the manifold... not the turbo. You want to know what your boost is AFTER the entire system, not before.... boost will drop across the system.
- Your wastegate should be 100% shut at idle. Adjust the rod so the flapper is 100% shut at idle... remember boost is pressure and it cannot build pressure if you have the wastegate cracked open... a wastegate is a controlled bleeding of boost... a turbo might be able to make 30 psi but if you want it to only make 5 psi you're bleeding off the other 25, if that makes sense. If you have it partially open at idle that means the turbo's gonna have to work it's butt off to make boost and it will lag due to this.... then when the gate opens at what it thinks is 5 psi it's really opening at say 2 so you're now bleeding ALL boost. If that makes sense. Readjust it so it's closed snug at idle.
- Your couplers must be too big, you greased the hell out of them (lol) or you haven't tighened things down. Having a beat at the end of all connections is a fantastic idea, but I don't have them and I have T-bolts and Vibrant couplers and I NEVER blew one off at 15psi of boost so.... something is up.
- As said no boost is safe on stock injectors. They're 19#... they're tiny. You need better injectors and a way to raise fuel with boost... how you do that is up to you but don't boost it until it's ready.
- 6 psi intercooled is safe, just ensure you don't detonate.
Ensure you're running a restrictor to the turbo on the oil line, and don't hesitate to always check the bolts on the turbo... they tend to want to back out due to the heat, even with lock washers in place. Mine would start to back out within 3 weeks so I constantly had to check them every now and then to ensure everything was good to go. Exhaust leaks suck.
Good luck and congrats.
-Chris-
-Sweetness-
-Turbocharged-
Slowly but surely may some day win this race...
i have a cartech fmu FOR SALE, i emailed you about it.
anyways, ya take the posted advice and all should be good.
good luck.
Ok so reading all this I egt that my Boostcontroler and Wastegate should be connected to My
Charge Piping and my
Manifold?!?! So which is it? I have my BOV tapped into the Vacume line that goes to the brake booster, works perfect!
And then I read that the Boost Guage is sopesed to be tapped into my Intake manifold right? Makes sence because thats where the vacume and the boost go?
Right now I have a 1/4" line run to the turbo for oil supply and a 1/2" return line, is this restricted enough? if Not should I just add in a small ball valve on the turbo so slow the flow down even more?
So I need:
Bigger injectors
Rising rate FMU? 1:10 would you say?
As for the piping I think it was blowing apart because I was overboosting because the boost controller and wastegate were hooked up wrong. All the Tbolts werre TIGHT and eerythhing was clean when i connected them(no oil or greese on them)
the ratio you listed is wrong.
it is 10-1.
basically fuel pressure raises 10 psi PER 1 pound of boost. = 10:1
(fmu i have is adjustable, from 1:1 to 10:1 with a turn of a knob.
i would tap the boost guage into the line coming from your manifold to your stock fuel pressure regulator. that is a good boost source.
buy that FMU off of Jake, thats exactly what you need.
Charge pipe:
Wastegate
--> when you have this line connected, cut it and put one side into one port on the boost controller and the other on the other end... this is for a manual boost controller... i have no idea how to hook up an electric
AFPR
Manifold:
BOV
<- i wouldnt mess with such an important part of your car... if the bov fails then you have a vaccum leak and no brakes....
Map Sensor
Boost Gauge --> yes, because thats where you can read vaccum and boost
----
About the oil question:
You cant cause enough restriction with the hose, you need this
http://www.034motorsport.com/product_info.php?products_id=74
its a oil restrictor... that goes on the feed, on the turbo....
as for the return, 1/2 inch is perfect, you want no restriction on that return
----
Quote:
So I need:
Bigger injectors
Rising rate FMU? 1:10 would you say?
As for the piping I think it was blowing apart because I was overboosting because the boost controller and wastegate were hooked up wrong. All the Tbolts werre TIGHT and eerythhing was clean when i connected them(no oil or greese on them)
yea you need bigger injectors... fmu, or hptuners
.
you must have been boost some serious numbers with that line missing!! lol, dont blow your engine!!!
good luck
|Forged 8.9:1 Wiseco Pistons|Forged Eagle Rods|HPTuners|60trim|Tial Wastegate|
|Precision Intercooler|2.5" Exhaust|2.5" Charge Pipes|630CC Mototron Injectors|
|Stock: Fuel Pump, Transmission, Manifold, TB, Head, Head Gasket, Ignition, Suspension...|
Call me a moron but anyone got pics of the vac lines and connections on a 2200, because I just ran a line from the TB where the stock FPR connected, to a T to the boost controller and the FPR, then ran that to the boost guage, reved it a little and Never ot boost from that line so i pulled that line off and felt it, even during a rev there was still a vacume but no boost.
you essentially wont build boost while just revving it.. maybe a little, but I know with my turbo I dont build any.
Boost=pressure
if the BOV is blowing off loud as hell that would =boost right?
And wouldent the needle at least twich?
1. Your wastegate hose should connect to the nipple off the side of your compressor housing...the boost controller should connect between the nipple on the compressor housing and the wastegate. If its a manual boost controller the hose from the turbo connects to the bootom of the controller(in line with the adjustment screw).
2. Make sure you connect your boost gauge to the hose running to your wastegate BEFORE the boost controller.
3. The wastegate will only open when it reads the necessary amount of boost pressure to open the valve to keep the turbo from making any additional boost. So no, it shouldnt be open.
4. Make sure there isnt any grease on those pipes and if need be i guess you could scuff up the surface where the couplers attach to give the silicone a better surface to "grab" on.
5. NO
6. Im not real sure on FMUs...i dont even try to deal with them, we tune hondas with uberdata
2007 GM Tuner Bash...HELL YEA
PA,MD,NJ,DE,NY and all states north caravan
Isnt it not supose to make boost unless there is a load on the engine? ( So unless your driving .... )
Well if I understand right, It makes more boost under a load, but should so some lowamount 1-2PSI by reving....
SRT4s and supras make boost, but some of my friend's honda's dont.
And ive heard different things on here ... Rich's ( Exterminators ) Cavalier made some in neutral .
Just looking for a solid answer
.
it depends on the size of the turbo versus the size of your engine, and also where you want to make your power.
you'll run out of top end with a turbo that goes into boost in neutral......(flamesuit is on)
.JerseyKid. wrote:SRT4s and supras make boost, but some of my friend's honda's dont.
And ive heard different things on here ... Rich's ( Exterminators ) Cavalier made some in neutral .
Just looking for a solid answer .
tiny turbos take less exhaust flow to make boost....therefore the infamous blow off in neutral
2007 GM Tuner Bash...HELL YEA
PA,MD,NJ,DE,NY and all states north caravan
You are running an automatic... you should be able to make boost by power stalling the car. The torque/stall convertor should be able to put enough load against the engine to create boost.
