well once again im having troubles with boost gauges again, this time i redid all my vac lines and stuff and the vac at idle reads 21 which is where its supposed to be and when i turn my car off i notice the vac needle always stops at -2 so this tells me the boost is also off 2 psi you think? Im still readding 0 psi on WOT but the car is doing its job and pulling like a raped ape with and without the alky injection. *sigh* damn autometer gauges suck.
May just be your gauge. I have the same gauge. I will sell it for $30.00. When you have the have the 2.8 pulley like me and you only boost 4.5 pounds it is not very impressive.
FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!
Yup I have the same problem with my autometer gauge. I have had it replaced three times and they all do something similar. My final solution was to just get a digital gauge.
damn I have never had a problem.. that is weird...
LE61T PTE6262 Powered 
Wade Jarvis wrote:May just be your gauge. I have the same gauge. I will sell it for $30.00. When you have the have the 2.8 pulley like me and you only boost 4.5 pounds it is not very impressive.
does it work fine though, like vac goes to 0 when engines off and such, i dont know why the hell im having trouble with these damn things, i dont know if i should sell it or what because vac works fine just not boost it seems.
Dunno man I never hooked it up. I am not really sure how you hook up a tiny vaccum line to a the back of the gauge. The fitting on the gauge looks more like a something I would plug cable TV into than a vaccum line. As far as the outside it looks like new so I can not see a reson it would not work. But I dont know that might not mean anything.
FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!
you got the boost gauge tapped into the FPR line?
my autometer does that sometimes when i turn it off. but it reads right at 5psi at WOT. (well not more more/ check classifieds).
good luck
My autometer sits at 0 , havent had a problem either.
Hmph ...
heres the vac/boost line setup, boost line taps to the charger reading boost, then it goes to a T fitting on the FPR then from there it goes to another T fitting that goes to the meth injection boost switch and then to the gauge, simple as that i think im gonna call autometer and see if they can do anything about it if im lucky
does it stay like that even after time?
well i just called them and they said to send it in and ill get a new gauge
, said its out of calibration somehow so hell yeah.
Screw Autometer. Try a Stewart Warner gauge....I GUARANTEE it will be calibrated correctly. Mine has sat at 0 when off for almost 1.5 years now. None of my SWP gauges have even hinted at reading wrong.
Gimme a call if you want an accurate gauge.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
sounds like a altitude or climate thing. as baro pressure changes my gauge will go from +/- 1.. that is why the zero thinger is approx 2 points... 0.02
HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED
The reason Autometer's zero point is so big is BECAUSE THEY CAN'T CALIBRATE THEIR GAUGES FOR @!#$. I've taken my SWP gauge across the country (literally) and no matter where I am the gauge sits at 0 when off. It's called proper calibration. Autometer STILL can't do it...and they apparently never will be able to.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
My Autometer gauges all work fine for me.......... I think between the 2 cars I have 2 of each (phantom series) gauges.
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
My gauge is not hooked up and the needle is not even in the box. The needle is half the way out of the box pointing towards the boost side.
FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!
I've had the same problem with 2 different gauges, one autometer and one spw. Both were inaccurate when you shut the car off. One read 1 lb of pressure and the other read in vacuum slightly. So I may have to look at a digital one.
............super 60 on its way
i personally have never had a issue with my autometer gauges, they have always been within a half pound of boost to what im seeing through my datalogger.
if it sits at -2 in the off position its def off calibration. no ifs and sor buts.
i had a set of cyberdyne digital guages, but they are super busy to look at and very confusing. plus there super pricey.
if i had a choice of baller equipment id score some defi guages
Never had an issue with my Autometer mech. boost gauge.
14.330 @ 96.37mph
electronic gauges can self-calibrate when powered on, so yes they can be more accurate. but i hate the look of digital so I'll just use my analog autometer.
