I just wanted to get some opinions of how some of u would break in a built 2200. pistons rods bearings ported cylinderhead stainless valves.


DRIVE HARD OR DONT DRIVE AT ALL!!!

I just had my engine built, but with a 2.4.. Its in the car and I was told to drive it how your gonna drive it later on.. If your gonna drive it hard, then break it in hard(not exessivly) because the piston rings and seals need to be seated properly... Maybe other people can give a bit more insite on this..











~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

break it in boosted. take it out and beat the crap out of it. accelerate hard in 3rd, and then allow the car to decel hard, do that a few times. th rings are usually seated after the first heat cycle anyhow.

personaly when i got my built 2200 motor back in i drove it carefully for the first 3,000 miles simple reasoning is that i just spent $4,000 on the new engine and i wanted to make sure everything was properly lubricated and in working order befor i went and beat the heck out of it. I mean after all i am going to be running boost on it i wanted it to prove to me that daily driving was successful with out complications. And yes after that i really opened the car up and allowed it to do what it was built for. Driving Hard!

yea the last way is the way i think im gonna go


DRIVE HARD OR DONT DRIVE AT ALL!!!

^^Cool man, good luck











~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

yup, beat the @!#$ hit out of it right out of the box, if its assembled incorrectly, its gonna @!#$ the bed no matter how you drive it.

Another suggestion. Take the valve cover off and poor your oil from the top of the rockers and let it drain downwards. I used Lucas oil the second i had her back in my engine bay. Thick stuff but really allows all of the moving parts to get saturated. Remember a bone dry part in the engine can cause failure and you don't want your brand new engine to fail. The main thing is that most machine shops don't warranty a engine build for the simple fact that they cannot control how you drive your car thats why they always tell you to take things slow and in steps. I ran my car for like 4 hours in my shop before i even put it on the street. I sat there and watched for any hhiccupsor mmisfires Sounds excessive but if your like me and don't have an arss load of cash to do this weekly then i would suggest being over-cautious then under. Hey good luck man and enjoy i know i am enjoying mine.

Quick question did you drop the compression ratio at all? I dropped mine down to 8.5:1. I hope you got away cheaper than i did on my engine build because 2 years ago when mine was started and finished i pretty much had no luck finding parts so i had to get everything custom made which sucked not only because it was super expensive but it took weeks and even sometimes months to get the new parts in the mail.

Josh G. wrote:hick stuff but really allows all of the moving parts to get saturated. Remember a bone dry part in the engine can cause failure and you don't want your brand new engine to fail..

The machine shop should use some kind of assembly lube on most moving parts.

I have assembled and installed few Mustang GT (4.6 liter SOHC) and Cobra (4.6 liter DOHC) motors. After the install, I usually let the engine run for a few minutes to watch the oil pressure, check for leaks, coolant temp, and check for codes. Once all of that is done, the car usually goes straight on the dyno for some wide open throttle tuning . We do the same thing on our race car that has a 4.6 liter DOHC 4 valve motor that makes over 1200hp.....let it idle to check for leaks, oil pressure, and any weird noises. And then it goes straight on the dyno.




275hp & 306tq - 1999 2.2 ohv
13.2 @ 108 mph
-1996 2.4 liter + Turbo + Built motor + Torco + More boost = Lots o' Power
-2000 Mustang GT + 2004 Cobra motor, Whipple 2.3 supercharger,
built rear-end,Dodge Viper spec T56 6 speed, bolt-ons = wheelies at the track!!!!!