ok so i got the gm flash.. crank the boost up to see how it holds. (most of you saw my other posts with the new engine waiting to go in)
well needless to say i made too many turns on the boost controller... pegged 20psi. (got the video on my cell phone. tryin to find how to load it.)
anyhoo long story short. this is the 2nd coupler iv blow completely off. is there any special clamps or anything that any of you use? i went through and tightened them all again to be sure but im still concerned.
any ideas?
btw for the record.. 18 and 20psi and the stock eco was liking it.
also i guess this might help to add.
i bought the greddy type s from one of my friends about a year ago. he had it set pretty soft so it would blow off with low throttle. i never changed it till today. tightened it 1 full on the hard setting.... my boost went from 10psi in the 1st setting to 15.. then from 15psi in the 2nd setting to.. well. idk.. the boost gauge stops at 20 and it was past.
my ass has never puckered that much before. that huge POP then sudden loss of power scared the @!#$ out of me.
crawled under the car. expected to see a mess.. instead i see the charge pipe hanging about 2 inches off the ground just dangling.
broke the metal clam right off holding the charge pipe to the turbo. it didnt just break off... it broke the cupler then threw the pipe off.yesterday afternoon, i blew the intake elbow right off the throttle body.
keep in mind.. before the reflash it was it was about 8psi in the 1st setting and 12 -13 in the 2nd.
reflash.. then 10 in the 1st and 15 in the 2nd.
then tightened the bov and it was 20 plus
Are you using T-bolt clamps or the worm gear? T-bolt is better for boost
Go with T Bolts, ATP sales them
John H [Cavalierkid wrote:my ass has never puckered that much before.
if I were drinking something while sitting at this computer, you would have owed me a new monitor. ROFL
John, are your chargepipes already painted? What you can do is weld a nice bead around the ends of your chargepipes, and what that will do is give the clamp something to fall back on, and it'll greatly decrease your chance of one letting go. (infact it should fix the problem completely)
also like everyone else said you should be using t-bolt clamps for that much boost. 75% more clamping force then a worm-gear, IIRC.
T Bolt clamps on ebay.
What brand couplers are you using? I hope not cheap ones from a hardware store or something.
And if you havent painted your carge pipes, putting a weld on them like steve said is a good idea.
The HRC pipes already have a nice lip on them. Make sure the clamp is on the outside of that and they are tight. You could also step up from the worm gear clamps to T-Bolt clamps like I'm gonna be doing here soon to be safe.
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thanks guys.
yes the charge pipes are painted black.
guess ill check for some T-Bolt clamps. how much those lil bastards usually run?
Quote:
The HRC pipes already have a nice lip on them. Make sure the clamp is on the outside of that and they are tight.
x2 and did that last night on almost every one except for the ones right on the intercooler.. couldnt get to them with the bumper on.
If you have a Class 8 Truck dealership or repair shop near you they sell T clamps pretty cheap. Also if you keep having this problem. Apply some kind of mild spray on adhesive the tube. Preferably something that is used for gaskets in spray on can form. The last trick has never failed. I just hope you like it the way it is.
napa sells them too................they are about 4 bucks each
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I've seen them on ebay for around 3.50 or W/E but in my city they are like 9 bucks each, but you need them with any type of boost IMO, get those on there and post that video
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we ahve a palce by em called zimmermans... t bolt clamps are like 2 bucks a pop
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QBE (The Boosted One) wrote:we ahve a palce by em called zimmermans... t bolt clamps are like 2 bucks a pop
thats awesome. (and not fair)
as geforcez22 stated, ours locally run for $7-9, but are definately worth the investment.
Any semi-truck exhaust shop generally carries the stuff you need. They even sell v-band clamps and flanges
w00t.
the less joints you have in the system, the fewer chances you'll have of one letting go. (I've only got 5 couplers on my whole system)
If you plan on going in the 20+ psi category with your car, I would advise AGAINST T-clamps and go with constant torque (CT) clamps instead. They have a high pressure spring between the bolt and nut to provide increasing torque as the band attempts to push away from the coupler. You can find these at www.hightempsilicone.com.
Also, if you are ripping couplers, the only way to go with with High Temp Silicone's products. If you can rip one of their couplers in half, they'll send you a brand new one for FREE!!!
Once again: www.hightempsilicone.com
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thanks mr pute. just wondering.. any reason you said "advise AGAINST T-clamps"?
I only advise against due to the fact that they don't have the additional spring that CT clamps do and it also sounds like you don't have beaded tubing. T-clamps are fine with beaded tubes. However, from what I've been told, a CT clamp will hold much more boost on a non-beaded tube versus a t-clamp on a non-beaded tube.
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Also, I'm actually using a mix of CT and T-clamps in my system. I'm not a hater of T-clamps at all.
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