I got my Innovative LM-1 wideband today. I should have it all hooked up and calibrated soon. After doing some searching on others' AFR setups, I just wanted to make sure I'm looking for the correct ranges.
Idle: 14.2-14.7 or 15+ ??? I have seen both and was wondering which is better to shoot for.
Normal driving: 14.4-15.2
WOT: 12.0 This is what Hahn had recommended to me.
Any advice or experiences would be great. Thanks for the help!
"If you aren't shifting, then you certainly aren't driving!"
Don't worry about your idle A/F, just get it to idle decently. It will bounce around.
Normal driving should bounce around between 13-15.5. Again, as long as you are getting a decent driving car, don't worry about the off-boost a/f ratio.
Yes, WOT should be around 12:1.
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Just to clarify, when I am reviewing my data from the wideband, the maximum number I should see is 12.0. It shouldn't go below 12.0 anywhere? What I'm trying to say is as the rpm and boost increases, the numbers will vary. Should I only look at what the maximum value over this period?
"If you aren't shifting, then you certainly aren't driving!"
quick question, I've never really looked into "calibration" of a wideband, what is all included? I searched on AEM, innovative, and couldn't find the info, I bet it was right under my nose,
HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED
Duh, gotcha Shifted. Thanks.
"If you aren't shifting, then you certainly aren't driving!"
Ok I just got back after trying it out. I made a few runs and I'm looking at the playback. From looking at the readout when driving, the AFR kept going below 12 to about 10.something. I adjusted the bleed screw on the FMU out quite a ways. It still was in the 10's range at WOT. I'm not sure how much farther I can keep going with the bleed screw, maybe another turn or two. I would see 12's during WOT to a point, but then it proceeded to 10's AFR. I'm just wondering what to do if I run out of adjustment on the bleed screw.
"If you aren't shifting, then you certainly aren't driving!"
My air fuel in my Innoavtive is being goofy because when I floor it, it doesnt read my air/fuel correctly until after I let off on it, and then its hitting like 12.1
As for the open air calibration, I imagine as long as you dont have any exhaust gasses in the exhaust you wont need to take the sensor itself out, just hit the button 3 times, and then again once more.
Is it normal to get huge spikes on the playback data? My best guess is that I let off the throttle or shifted here, but they are way way bigger spikes than anything else on the chart.
"If you aren't shifting, then you certainly aren't driving!"
Any ideas as to why my LC-1 wont read under WOT? It wont read until after I let off the throttle...Or stays put at what my idle air/fuel was at...
I have heard on the Innovative Forums that if the sensor is located to close to the turbo where excessive heat is located, the sensor acts crazy...any truth to this?
I figured I could do the free air cal. as long as I let it sit overnight or even 2 days so there was nothing in there, I havent pulled the actually o2 out once yet to do the open air cal.
Wonder if I should try doing that....
Ill prolly just try pulling it out, but I think I am going to make a heat sink for it with some copper as recommended in the manual, if that doesnt work I will get a new sensor and move the sensor even further down....
how far is your sensor from your turbo charger? I know bosch sensors recommend about 36" from the engine.
HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED
I believe I read on the Innovate instruction manual that you can calibrate the sensor in the exhaust as long as the car has sat for 6-8 hours, in other words, not run a long time. You should be fine calibrating within the exhaust then.
Another question about the variation I'm seeing. If I don't hit exactly 12.0 AFR, should I go slightly above 12 or below? My guess says to aim for high 11's, but what do you guys think works best?
"If you aren't shifting, then you certainly aren't driving!"
I did some more tuning today with the new wideband. Problem was I couldn't get the AFR at WOT and high rpm to be close to 12. It kept going to about 10.8. That was as far out as I could adjust the needle valve. I got the idle to look good AFR wise, but it seemed a bit lumpy sounding. So I'm not sure I want to take the base pressure down much. Basically, it seems that no matter how I try, under boost I always see about 10.8 AFR. Any suggestions or something I'm missing?
"If you aren't shifting, then you certainly aren't driving!"
Turn up the boost and lean it out that way
