I am about to take mine apart to have it polished. Is there anything I need to know before doing this. Also how do you refill the oil when assembling it. And what type of oil is it and where can I buy it. Thanks in advance Wade
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gm sells the oil , you can also get it off ebay from the s/c rebuilders , for the gtp s/c's
there is a plug in the snout cover for oil fill , but you have to do it off the car
The snout bolts are removed and it will not budge. I need to remove the pulley before I can pull off the snout, correct??
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OKay, here is what i learned when I did mine.
1) the snout bolts maybe off, but you will need to use a dead blow to break the snout loose from the rotor housing.
2) The SC comes apart in three pieces: The snout, the rotor drive and carrier, the rotor housing.
3) I called and talked to a SC rebuild guy. he said that when refilling, fill it on the car, and fill it to the bottom of the hole (was very tricky, ended up using a syringe and some small tubing).
4) When doing it it will be much easier if you disassemble the snout removing all the drive mechanism, and the have it reassembled after proper cleaning. You get fluff and fuzz from the polishing wheels in there and can actually damage the internal bearings if not careful.
5) Lots and Lots of cleaning prior to reassembling. Carb cleaner works best and does not leave a residue.
6) Everyone will tell you not to, but a clear powdercoat would be nice to maintain your shine. I used high temp clear and am having issue on the snout, but no where else.
7) GM also sells a sealant in a little tube about the size of your finger. This needs to be used when reassmebling the SC. Apparently the material is made from some deriviative of Gold as it costs of $7.50 for a little bitty tube the size of your index finer, but is also enough to do the entire unit.
8) Torque on the snout bolts is only like 17 ft lbs when reassembling the unit as well.
As much as I love my sc being polished, I would seriously evaluate doing it again. Lots of work to do it, and lots of praise given for it, but overall it is questionable. I could have used the polishing money for something better.
Any other questions, please let me know
When refilling it I could just do it out of the car and hold it the position it would be mounted in the car right?
Also do I need to remove the pulley or not?
Thanks for the torque spec on the snout bolts
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the s/c doesnt sit flat , so your either gonna put to much or to little in it
which is why i said out of the car so it sits flat and you can fill it properly
^^Which is still wrong, if you sit it flat you won't have enough oil in it. Use a small funnel and small tube, and slowly fill it like I did. Get it to the threads at the bottom of the fill hole, and you will be fine.
I tried filling it sitting flat, didn't have nearly enough fluid and made a lot of noise.. added more fluid, problem resolved, car was quieter, and sounded like my buddies SC eco.....
Ok so fill it all the way on the car. Does the pulley have to come off in order to remove the snout?
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OK so I answered my own ? The pulley does not have to come off to get the snout off. You just need to gently work you way around the snout with a rubber mallet.
Next ? How exactly are you supposed to remove the pulley and the stuff inside the snout?
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^^That is one to be hadnled by the experts at a rebuild shop. The place I called about it wanted $75 for the dissassembly adn reasembly. I did lost of masking, and then follow-up cleaning and haven't had any issues, but I am also only 3K since the install......
So if I am correct all you did was remove the snout. How does the pulley itself come off?
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You pull it off. If you haven't noticed there are several threads about pulley changing/removal.
14.330 @ 96.37mph