Your options for the 2.4 is stock. Have it cross drilled, and knife edged, balance and you will be fine. No one with a built 2.4 on boost has broken a crank yet.
FU Tuning
Boardorgohome wrote:sounds like a plan....second qestion....i have a bad rod bearing(s) could i just get this crank machined or is it best to get a new one. Same with the bloick. Im about to buy another block but is it worth the money?
You will have to check the specs on the crank, and depending on how bad it is will depend it it can be polished, and turned. I have had one polished before. As for the block, if the rod did not come through the block it should be fine. Have it hot tanked and check, and start your build.
FU Tuning
I just dropped my 2.4 off at the shop Tuesday, I asked him should I have my crank lightend and he loudly said NOOO lol.. There's no reason to unless your always behind by and inch and need to win at the finish line. So I just had mine hot tanked and balanced with the rods and pistons.
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
ok hopfull Boardorgohome doesnt mind me asking this since i got kind of the same question.. im building up my 2.4L as well but plans are to run 22-25psi into the engine and with the supercharger on there, there will be huge low end torque which is ushaly from what i have seen what helps destroy a crank... so would it be worth my time to get the Forged one from Jbody performance? i mean i know no one has broken one yet but what hp numbers are they pushing.. im looking to shoot for 450whp and i would hate to put this much money and effort into it and have my crank shaft granade me engine...
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
If your stocker looks good, just pay $50 to have it cryotreated. A stock cryotreated crank will handle 450 horse easy. What you REALLY need to worry about is your oiling system and crank bearings, not the crank.
2000 Turbo Z
Josh F wrote:ok hopfull Boardorgohome doesnt mind me asking this since i got kind of the same question.. im building up my 2.4L as well but plans are to run 22-25psi into the engine and with the supercharger on there, there will be huge low end torque which is ushaly from what i have seen what helps destroy a crank... so would it be worth my time to get the Forged one from Jbody performance? i mean i know no one has broken one yet but what hp numbers are they pushing.. im looking to shoot for 450whp and i would hate to put this much money and effort into it and have my crank shaft granade me engine...
No one has ever broken one, there for no one can answer that question.
- 93 mph in the 1/8 mile
Member of J-Body Of Michigan.
well i talked it over with my dad and i think im just going to get a forged one... he told me his run in with his car and the crank shaft going on him... so i dont want to risk my entire engine over a $1200 part...
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
i think Karas was around 410whp (roughly 475bhp) on a cryoed crank and it didnt break... i also know he parted that engine... not sure if he inspected the crank and saw any signes of fatigue though.
Josh F wrote:ok hopfull Boardorgohome doesnt mind me asking this since i got kind of the same question.. im building up my 2.4L as well but plans are to run 22-25psi into the engine and with the supercharger on there, there will be huge low end torque which is ushaly from what i have seen what helps destroy a crank... so would it be worth my time to get the Forged one from Jbody performance? i mean i know no one has broken one yet but what hp numbers are they pushing.. im looking to shoot for 450whp and i would hate to put this much money and effort into it and have my crank shaft granade me engine...
fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
All evidence considered I'd just cryo and move on...
Joshua Dearman wrote:All evidence considered I'd just cryo and move on...
i think he said his was cryo treated... it was back in his police intercepter duster...
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
You don't cryo a crank.
-Chris-
-Sweetness-
-Turbocharged-
Slowly but surely may some day win this race...
I don't know what happened to everything I typed in that post up there^^, but FYI JBP does NOT offer a forged crank for the LD9. The only company I've found willing to build a one-off is Crower, and they quoted me $2500 and 14+weeks.
fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
Notec is right, JBP doesn't offer a forged crank. They're hard to get a hold of... the thing is 99.999% of j-body engine builds don't require them...
-Chris-
-Sweetness-
-Turbocharged-
Slowly but surely may some day win this race...
Josh F wrote:well i talked it over with my dad and i think im just going to get a forged one... he told me his run in with his car and the crank shaft going on him... so i dont want to risk my entire engine over a $1200 part...
A Billet or Forged crank will not run you 1200$ for a 2.4L LD9 engine. As far as I know, no one makes one. If you want to get one made you would need to talk to a manufacture. I really dont think they make runs under 5 when it comes to speical order cranks and it takes 16 weeks min and can take as long as 6 months to get the project completed. Last I checked it was about 4500$ each from Crower but that was 3 years ago.
Also, with a custom crank, you can go with different stroke and along with different combos of how you want the crank built would keep everything stock on the crank just make it out of better matrial or ?
damn i must have read it wrong.. i was also told Mantapart or somthing like that makes them?
karo would you suggest one for my twin charge setup if im shooting for 400-450hp?
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
SunfighterGT wrote:Josh F wrote:damn i must have read it wrong.. i was also told Mantapart or somthing like that makes them?
karo would you suggest one for my twin charge setup if im shooting for 400-450hp?
We have all basically responded with a "no" Josh.
Besides, even if you did "need" one, could you afford to put up the coin to get one? They're stupidly expensive.
-Chris-
i was just seeing what Karo thought...
but yes i could afford it... it would just mean i would have to go with a used R1 or CBR F4i or RR bike rather then a new R1 CRB ect...
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
crank isn't the weak point in the motor...focus really hard on keeping everything oiled, and tuned...and forget the crank...prolly have it cryotreated, and forget about it. no one has ever broken one....meaning it can probably handle more power then our motors will ever produce...cryo it and forget about it.
Well... if you've got the coin and you're interested in it (even for bragging rights) go to town but its really not necessary.
And DTP... as I stated earler: you do not cryotreat a crank.
-Chris-
-Sweetness-
-Turbocharged-
Slowly but surely may some day win this race...
