K well Ive been boosted for a short time now and Im having problems with the car running perfectly. It idles fine but when I step on the gas it bogs and almost stalls out before taking off. If i get on it slowly it runs fine. I also could not use the SRT Champion plugs, while they were in for 15 miles or so the check engine light came on and this problem was even worse so I had to go back to the factory plugs. The only GM dealership within 65 miles of me that will do the reflash is the one I went to and they know nothing about the procedure they performed so they're no help. Any ideas? Maybe its running rich at idle. I know I need a wideband gauge.
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What was the code when you put the plugs in? Are you sure THEY caused it and didn't just make everything else better and make that more pronounced? GIve us the DTC and I'll look it up and tell you if it was the plugs or something else.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
Hmm... I wish I could help ya... gotta find a GM Performance dealer if you can... the drive will be worth it if you can get them to flash the ecu.
Mine is throwing the 0171 code right now when at idle after driving it - fuel injector lean condition - probably caused buy the FMU being inline... cant wait to take it off !!!!!
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hmm.....i just did the reflash today on a 5-speed and its doin fine.......runnin liek a raped ape.....try and find a gmperformance parts dealer.....
Quote:
the reflash is the one I went to and they know nothing about the procedure they performed so they're no help.
So how do you know they did the reflash? Maybe they didnt cause they didnt knwo how? I dont know. When i called techline for mine today it was super easy....type in a 4 digit nuber into the comp........then it will take you to an archive.....and then you click on the right number then its all good
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** If i write in caps its cause im @ work and i can only write in caps cause the keyboard is a retarded CAPS only keyboard.**
Anyway crappy fuel could be causing it? I had probably 2 gallons of regular in the car and then put 4 gallons of premium in it before I installed the kit. I had my brother pick up that gas and he got it from Quality Dairy, which is known around my area for crappy gas? I wanted to put the smaller pulley I have on but not til I know if its running to lean or not.
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What size injectors are you using?
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
Quoting > Jcavi
LOL
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
I would not suggest ANYONE boost thier cars without a wideband. EVER.
Without one you have no idea what is going on.
a pyrometer is acceptable also.
"Growing old is mandatory. Growing up? Definitely optional."
HE HAS THE SAME REFLASH AS YOU BRANDON
IF ITS THE GM SUPERCHARGER(TWIN CAM OR ECO) OU DONT REALLY NEED ONE
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** If i write in caps its cause im @ work and i can only write in caps cause the keyboard is a retarded CAPS only keyboard.**
K well, the check engine light came back on and it was p0112 I believe, but anyway it said that I have low IAT input. Ive checked the wiring but it all looks fine. Hopefully my TMAP sensor isnt the problem.
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even with the reflash I wouldt go without one.
any aftermarket system should have one still.
"Growing old is mandatory. Growing up? Definitely optional."
its only a 40ish dollar sensor
*************Yea i spell liek wrong get over it*****************
** If i write in caps its cause im @ work and i can only write in caps cause the keyboard is a retarded CAPS only keyboard.**
I have an auto eco. My car surges at idle, too. It should go away after a minute. If it doesn't than that sucks. I have a check engine light on everyday. It comes on, then goes off. I have misfires though. I don't know what to say for you. Try letting it sit two minutes after starting it up. It should go into stoich or rich. You may not be getting enough fuel or your fuel pump is going to go out like my pump did when I first got turbo.
o4Black Fire wrote:K well, the check engine light came back on and it was p0112 I believe, but anyway it said that I have low IAT input. Ive checked the wiring but it all looks fine. Hopefully my TMAP sensor isnt the problem.
Ok lets think about this. Your having a IAT code and you think its a MAP problem? No offense, but your a moron. ITS A IAT CODE FOR A REASON. I bet if you fix the sensor the problem goes away. Not hard to figure out. I wish more people would think about things LOGICALLY.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
^^^ Hahahahahhahaha.
*gasp*
hahahahahhahahhaha.....
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-Sweetness-
-Turbocharged-
Slowly but surely may some day win this race...
Team Vision Racing (aka hypsy) wrote:o4Black Fire wrote:K well, the check engine light came back on and it was p0112 I believe, but anyway it said that I have low IAT input. Ive checked the wiring but it all looks fine. Hopefully my TMAP sensor isnt the problem.
Ok lets think about this. Your having a IAT code and you think its a MAP problem? No offense, but your a moron. ITS A IAT CODE FOR A REASON. I bet if you fix the sensor the problem goes away. Not hard to figure out. I wish more people would think about things LOGICALLY.
Dude, just bite your tongue. (Or play with one of those chinese finger things)
He said TMAP. And for hypsy's clarification, it means Temperature Manifold Absolute Pressure. I'll chalk that up to pure ignorance.
The ecotec's s/c kit come with this sensor that you have to splice in.
teh Sunfires... (Tom) wrote:Team Vision Racing (aka hypsy) wrote:o4Black Fire wrote:K well, the check engine light came back on and it was p0112 I believe, but anyway it said that I have low IAT input. Ive checked the wiring but it all looks fine. Hopefully my TMAP sensor isnt the problem.
Ok lets think about this. Your having a IAT code and you think its a MAP problem? No offense, but your a moron. ITS A IAT CODE FOR A REASON. I bet if you fix the sensor the problem goes away. Not hard to figure out. I wish more people would think about things LOGICALLY.
Dude, just bite your tongue. (Or play with one of those chinese finger things)
He said TMAP. And for hypsy's clarification, it means Temperature Manifold Absolute Pressure. I'll chalk that up to pure ignorance.
The ecotec's s/c kit come with this sensor that you have to splice in.
No don't chalk it up to ignorance. I know exactly what he was refering to. The TMAP is still a PRESSURE sensor. The IAT is a TEMPERATURE sensor. So why don't you just bite your tongue (or cut off your head.) If the code is for the IAT you replace or fix the IAT. Not another sensor. Doesn't take a genius to figure that one...but I'll give you a pass on this one.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
Oh you should feel blessed, almighty hypsy is goign to give you a pass.
Settle down, remember when you had your Sunbird? Yeah, you were a newb at one point too.
Team Vision Racing (aka hypsy) wrote:teh Sunfires... (Tom) wrote:Team Vision Racing (aka hypsy) wrote:o4Black Fire wrote:K well, the check engine light came back on and it was p0112 I believe, but anyway it said that I have low IAT input. Ive checked the wiring but it all looks fine. Hopefully my TMAP sensor isnt the problem.
Ok lets think about this. Your having a IAT code and you think its a MAP problem? No offense, but your a moron. ITS A IAT CODE FOR A REASON. I bet if you fix the sensor the problem goes away. Not hard to figure out. I wish more people would think about things LOGICALLY.
Dude, just bite your tongue. (Or play with one of those chinese finger things)
He said TMAP. And for hypsy's clarification, it means Temperature Manifold Absolute Pressure. I'll chalk that up to pure ignorance.
The ecotec's s/c kit come with this sensor that you have to splice in.
No don't chalk it up to ignorance. I know exactly what he was refering to. The TMAP is still a PRESSURE sensor. The IAT is a TEMPERATURE sensor. So why don't you just bite your tongue (or cut off your head.) If the code is for the IAT you replace or fix the IAT. Not another sensor. Doesn't take a genius to figure that one...but I'll give you a pass on this one.
The 4 wire map sensor replaces the iat and oe map sensor. It has 2 sensors in one. A temperature sensor and a pressure sensor. So.....
And to diagnose your problem, check the resistance between the connectors to make sure everything is snug and not loosing voltage.
HAHAHAHAHA... its a TMAP like everyone is saying, Its 2 sensors in one, when your wrong and make an ass of yourself you procede as though the whole world is stupid and your a god. Once again... slowly this time around... THERE IS NO IAT! The GM S/C kit gets rid of the factory IAT and replaces it with the TMAP. So think about that logically for a while.... Or come over to my place we'll pad my garage so you dont hurt yourself, park my car in it and have you find the IAT for me.
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lets figure this logically then. you give me an IAT code and I tell you its an IAT fault. where is the issue here? Unless GM is too stupid to replace the IAT code with TMAP codes then I correctly told you to check the IAT. But apparently GM is stupid and doesn't change codes like everyone else. Whatever. If I was wrong I apologize for calling you a dumbass but nothing else. Common sense should have told you what sensor to check and not to think it was a pressure sensor, or bad gas for that matter.
Once again, Jay and Tom, just for you two asshats who are apparently perfect when the information given is bad...I'm sorry for calling him a dumbass...but nothing else.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
GM is stupid, he is a dumbass, and I'll bet you had to actually look up what code 112 meant
1989 Turbo Trans Am #82, 2007 Cobalt SS G85
I didn't look it up actually. If I had it would have proved I can do some intelligent troubleshooting like my training has taught me too. I see no issue with that. They make manuals for a reason.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
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