Ok heres my problems. I installed my turbo this weekend and im having numerous troubles with it. I bought the kit used off a j-body member (Devin M) and altered some things with the kit. Below is a list of what i have.
Hahn internally waste gated turbo
Hahn turbo manifold
Hahn Accel upgraded injectors
Cartech BEGI FMU
2" hot side pipes
2.5" cold side pipes
Custom intercooler
Greddy Type RS BOV
AEM UEGO gauge
Autometer fuel pressure gauge
Autometer boost gauge
The rest can be found in my registry for my car.
Here is the problems...I installed everything correctly to my knowledge. The exhaust is hacked up right now so i have no cat or muffler, just straight downpipe. I start the car and it idles fine but when i rev the engine i hear no turbo spool whatsoever, no BOV nothing. I have all the vac lines hooked up correctly, manifold to the wastegate and then to the turbo, then a seperate line from the manifold to a splitter and then it goes to the BOV and the FMU. This may sound weird but off the wastegate there is the rod that connects to a lever with a cotter pin in it. What function does that serve because i know i had to take it off to attach my oil feed and it kinda shifted to the left and i heard a latching sounds but then i put it back to the vertical position. MY question is, should i be hearing the turbo spooling when in idle and if i cant how can i find out if there is something wrong with the turbo because i know i bought it used but when i got it i was able to spin the fin in the housing by hand so it not seized up from what i could tell. ALL HELP IS APPRECIATED.
Did you actually drive it?
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
well for starters you should of checked because this has been covered berfore
you have nothing to worry about your not creating enough cfm to get the turbo spining. no spin means no pressure no preesure means no bov.
so go ahead and take it for a drive if everything elses seems fine.
btw that rod is your swing arm. its what moves the watsegates diaphram.
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Kick azz is my boost hero!!! 
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oh.... my..... god..................................
LE61T PTE6262 Powered
Ohh....my.......god what????
Also i suppose it is normal for the manifold to smoke pretty bad when I first start it up considering it gets pretty hot. I just being cautious guys, i dont wanna break something that is going to cost me any money.
yah if there is oil on it, it will smoke, make sure you have no vacumm leaks, and don't boost much (or at all) until you get that thing turned, it doesn't take 15 seconds to burn a piston.
HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED
even if it doesn't make boost, the BOV shoudl still open because of manifold vaccuum unless it is leaking vaccuum around the diaphragm. What is your vaccuum reading at idle?
If you don't have the wastegate actuator arm attatched or it isn't adjusted properly (too loose), it wont make boost at all. In order to see possitve pressure you are going to need to put the car under load (ie: drive it) You will have manifold vacuum just revving it though so the BOV should open and some air should blow out (the turbo is spiinning and making pressure even when the engine is seeing less than 0 psi as the sucking of the engine cancels out the possitive pressure UNTIL the throttle is closed.
Check the wastegate actuator if it still isn't making boost when you drive it. Do a vaccuum test on the vacuum port of the BOV and see if it opens.
The smoking when you fire it up first is normal. All of your skin oils, cleaning agents and other things are going to burn off of it.
Cardomain|
Myspace
everything you have described is normal man. my manifold smoked from oil. and i had mine open dp when i first cranked it and i couldnt hear my turbo threw the exhaust for the exact same reason stated above. its gonna be so loud that even if you rev the motor your not going to hear that bov, i have the same bov on my car and its really quite until it actually is letting off a lot of pressure. so you dont have anything to worry about. go out and drive it and have some fun!
M I N I O N - Sinbird wrote:even if it doesn't make boost, the BOV shoudl still open because of manifold vaccuum unless it is leaking vaccuum around the diaphragm. What is your vaccuum reading at idle?
If you don't have the wastegate actuator arm attatched or it isn't adjusted properly (too loose), it wont make boost at all. In order to see possitve pressure you are going to need to put the car under load (ie: drive it) You will have manifold vacuum just revving it though so the BOV should open and some air should blow out (the turbo is spiinning and making pressure even when the engine is seeing less than 0 psi as the sucking of the engine cancels out the possitive pressure UNTIL the throttle is closed.
Check the wastegate actuator if it still isn't making boost when you drive it. Do a vaccuum test on the vacuum port of the BOV and see if it opens.
The smoking when you fire it up first is normal. All of your skin oils, cleaning agents and other things are going to burn off of it.
listen to this crazy nuca he knows his ish
BTW you got off mad easy dood
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Kick azz is my boost hero!!! "
I believe my vacuum is at around 20 or 22 when i start it up. Im going to wire up the exhaust right now then take it for a light spin to see if im making any boost. By the way, how do you do a vacuum test to see if there is a leak. Also i have my AEM UEGO gauge hooked up but it is at the end of where i hacked the exhaust, am i going to get a semi accurate air fuel reading even if i have no backpressure?
Blue Splash wrote:I believe my vacuum is at around 20 or 22 when i start it up. Im going to wire up the exhaust right now then take it for a light spin to see if im making any boost. By the way, how do you do a vacuum test to see if there is a leak. Also i have my AEM UEGO gauge hooked up but it is at the end of where i hacked the exhaust, am i going to get a semi accurate air fuel reading even if i have no backpressure?
Per AEM: "Must be mounted atleast 36 inches or more downstream ..................Before Cat........etc................... Also should have 10degree incline to prevent collections of liquids during cold start phase........"
Hope this helps.....
P&P Tuning
420.5whp / 359.8wtq
Ok i just took it for a ride and wow is that cunt loud. But anyways i mounted the AEm sensor atleast 3 feet downstream and at the angle. I hit 4 psi (which i have my boost controller set at) and my a/f ration was arounf like 12.5 which i know is too rich. Im not going to go crazy with the tuning till i have some back pressure from the exhaust when i get it all hooked up. At idle the car is at around 16.5 and the car idles nice at about where factory is idle is. I cant monitor my fuel pressure because i broke the autometer sensor yesterday but i ordered a new one which will be here this week. Im getting the 2.5" exhaust done tomorrow probably and then upgrading to 3" soon. I have my boost controller set at 4 psi for stage 1 and 8 psi for stage 2 but im not putting it on stage 2 till i get the sensor hooked up for the fuel pressure, the exhaust, and the back sensor from the cat which is unhooked. I hit 4 psi at about 3500 rpm. I can hear the BOV and the turbo spool but the exhaust overtakes the sounds and muffles it. Let me know about what everyone thinks and ill post pics this week.
Now is not having the cat sensor hooked up and nno back pressure going to affect how the car runs alot and the turbo because shes rough right now?
Blue Splash wrote:Now is not having the cat sensor hooked up and nno back pressure going to affect how the car runs alot and the turbo because shes rough right now?
No as far as the 2nd sensor goes.
Having no backpressure will spool the turbo faster though...
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
It should spool pretty quick cinsidering i only have 2" pipe coming off the turbo to the intercooler. Just as soon as i get everything ill bump the boost and tune it alot better. I might go with the HP tuners route soon so till then i BEGI will have to do. Did you ever get your megasquirt hooked up NJHK?
ok im confused
people are saying bigger piping means quick spooling
now your saying 2" will be great for spooling
some one clarify
QBE (The Boosted One) wrote:oh.... my..... god..................................
x2
that little "rod with a cotter pin in it" is the actuator arm for your wastegate...
I think its time to hand over the keys maybe? or park the car until you know whats what.
some people think 2" will spool lower in the rpm, and 3" will take longer to spool but come on harder when it does. I have never seen actual proof.... just people saying, I drove in this and then drove in that, etc. etc. but both seem to make good dyno numbers, lol
HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED
Why the hell would i park the car till i knew what was what. I have it all installed and it goes fine. Read above...damn people cant just like post on here without someone being a dick all the time.
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damn people cant just like post on here without someone being a dick all the time.
well if you sift through it, we are basically saying, "please be careful, because if you haven't done research and understand what stuff does, it would suck to wreck something instead of finding out from our mistakes, plenty of older stuff of what you have gone through, and what might be ahead.... and you don't want some of the things that were talked about."
that's what we are saying with more, dumbass, f#$ker, stupid sh4t, etc etc,
HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED
Blue Splash wrote:Why the hell would i park the car till i knew what was what. I have it all installed and it goes fine. Read above...damn people cant just like post on here without someone being a dick all the time.
you're a moron.
my car isn't turbo and I knew what you were talking about. The wastegate only works because of that arm that you're talking about. It opens a trap door thus allowing exhaust gases to bypass the turbine and in turn control boost.
I'll be a dick all I want, you're the tool who did modifications to your car and you don't know wtf @!#$ is.
Everyone on this website and especially in this forum is a dumbass, which is why I hardly post in here anymore. This forum should go the way of versus.
Anyone in her who does know whats up doesn't post here.. gee, I wonder why.
M-tay (White Rice) wrote:ok im confused
people are saying bigger piping means quick spooling
now your saying 2" will be great for spooling
some one clarify
They're talking about two different types of piping. Intercooler piping and exhaust tubing.
Larger exhaust= quicker spooling
smaller intercooler= quicker spooling
