okay, well i have pretty much decided on turboing my car but the guys at the shop i work at are all screaming to just buy a V8 or some new car already fast. that just makes me want to turbo my 2.2 ohv all the more. either way here are some things i know and some questions i have.

for the fuel injector i will be adding an extra one in the intake piping.

will the turbo exhaust manifold from a 2200 bolt up to a '96 2.2?

they also said that i will burn through cat converters so fast it won't even be funny. is this true?

one more thing that i have a ? on right now. Will the ECU or whatever it is called (i work for toyota) go nuts from the extra fuel injectors and the boost and will it throw all kinds of codes? if it does is there a way around this.

I want this car to be my daily driver. The one tech said that if i can turbo my car and get it to run properly then i will get a TON of respect from him and that i will be a better mechanic then he is.

oh and one more question about tuning. after everything is installed and i have the piggy back system installed and stuff i just tune it to get the A/F meter to read about 13.1:1 or close to it basically right? or is there alot more to tuning than getting the A/F meter to read right?

http://www.helpelijah.com

I think 13:1 air/ fuel is a bit lean... Most people suggest around 12:1..

you want to tune it to where you make the best power on a dyno. it could be 14.7:1, 13.5:1 or 11:1.

welll ^ wouldnt u make the most power at a leaner # because it is making a bigger boom......i thought you would want low 12/s across the board thats what i have gathered up form this site.........i d k tho.......better safe then srry....


Thanx Charles

Poundin fire that is the dumbest post ever!!! And this one a close second.

Todd wrote:Poundin fire that is the dumbest post ever!!! And this one a close second.

Why is it dumb? Do you know what tuning is?

Max power is made at the edge of lean. You can lean out the car until you get knock, wherever that is. People say 12:1 because nobody gets knock that rich, but if you put it on a dyno, and we had a way to accurately tune the fuel curve, I can bet there is power to be had by leaning it out. How far you go depends on how far you can push it until you see knock.





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Thanks Shifted. I guess that reply from Todd show how few people know how to really tune. I am by no means an expert in any way, shape or form; but I see too many people thinking that a given AFR is right or that all you need is a XX:1 AFPR. Probably freak people out to find out what I have tuned my cruizing and light throttle AFR to be.....

yeah i figured as much. but i don't have ready access to a dyno so to tune it as a daily driver until i could get to a dyno is what i was wondering about. thanks for the answers on that.

i also have the other three questions:

1. will the turbo exhaust manifold from a 2200 bolt up to a '96 2.2?

2. they also said that i will burn through cat converters so fast it won't even be funny. is this true?

3. one more thing that i have a ? on right now. Will the ECU or whatever it is called (i work for toyota) go nuts from the extra fuel injectors and the boost and will it throw all kinds of codes? if it does is there a way around this.

one thing they are also getting on my case about is saying that i would should be a certified master techian to even attempt to do this myself. i say screw that.

http://www.helpelijah.com

1: I'm pretty sure they do. from what i can tell, they have the exact same manifold from the factory

2: someone that cares about their cat would have to tell you about this. I had mine removed years ago.

3: if you go too rich or lead (from the computers program) it will throw a code for just that. then after about 5 min of driving within proper parameters, the mil light will go out.

thank you for the other answers. either way as for the cat i don't see why it would burn through them i mean like all the stock turbo cars come with cats... blah, blah, blah.

so i just want to be sure i can put this turbo stuff on my car and not throw codes. (after tuning and the such).

i have a new question:

Will i need to get a new wideband O2 sensor? from what i understand i get the apexi safc-2 to adjust the fuel system and just connect up the A/F sensor to the stock sensor to get the readings.

http://www.helpelijah.com

wideband is a great idea. it lets you know what your afr is at all times, in real time. great tool everyone should have one.

2200 manifold from ebay

get at least a high flow cat

and tuning is hard, crappy work, but if you manage to get YOUR cars optimal afr then your car will make the most power it ca, shifted is right............ the brink of lean will net you the most power, but most people will run richer because of less chance in detonation, which is always a good thing for your grocery getter...... it is for me ....

and It actually happened to me,

maybe someone can correct me, my CEL came on the other day after a HARD rip from a dead stop, too rich..... apparently the CEL for too rich sensor 1 only comes on when your in the high 11's AFR, that is TRUELY too rich........ for a stock motor

the AFR will determine the HEAT inside your combustion chamber, 12.1:1 - 12.5:1 is the best for a stock motor, 13.0:1 for a built motor because they can expell heat better.

Lee




JDM Civic Hatch
Status: Parting Out Turbo Kit....
14.224 @ 102.01MPH @ 5.5psi.... 2.3 60'
Next: Civic JDM B16a2 w/GSR LSD Turbo - Goal 300whp 1400lbs...

Quote:

the AFR will determine the HEAT inside your combustion chamber, 12.1:1 - 12.5:1 is the best for a stock motor, 13.0:1 for a built motor because they can expell heat better.

Well... not quite true.

A PROPERLY built motor will be built to expel the heat better and use it to its advantage. Most motors aren't built like this, they are just built to take a ton of pressure on the pistons and rods... many people do not take this factor into consideration.

Heat when properly used will create more power with a turbo setup... that basic principle is the foundation of "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell.

Keeping IN CYLINDER temps down is important... but to do that you must get the heat OUT of the cylinder more efficiently, and quicker. That heat will help spool the turbo better and in turn make more power.

So to say 13.0:1 is proper for a "built" motor is incorrect. It's a better A/F for a properly built and well-thought-out motor. To many people, "built" means forged rods and pistons and a P&P job. This isn't the case.

With all of this said - fuel is math. Spark timing is math. Engines are math - period. You NEED to do the math to figure out whats best...

Figure a power goal, then find your injector size, duty cycle, and figure out an airfuel ratio from there... if you're adding an extra injector then find out what kind of power you will make, then what size injector you need fuel-wise to help the stockers.

It's all math.

Good luck bud.

-Chris-



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