I just got an Infinity Basslink setup hooked up. However it slides around alot and i think it looks retarded where its at. Anyone got suggestions on some sort of way to keep it in one spot and make it look good?
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Screw it to the back of one of the seats.
09 HHR LS, Wife's Car
05 Cavalier, Clarion DXZ375MP, Autotek MM8000.5 & 13Kv.2, wife's old car, updates coming soon
Not to spam you, but basslink's are next to worthless. I would sell it to a high school kid who doesn't like to turn a wrench, and buy a real sub with an amp. Build yourself a box to the right spec, and even have the shape of it fit snugly against your back seat.
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Hell hath no fury like a pissed off balloon animal.
"Sup, G?"
"Aren't you white?"
"Only on the outside, craka."
Bloodspiller wrote:Not to spam you, but basslink's are next to worthless.
I will have to go against you on that remark. You have to remember everyone is different. Some people look for a lot of bass whereas others look for a nice full range sound. I also felt the same way about the basslink but not until I heard it in a j body I was impressed. They actually put out some nice sound for what it is. The bass link is awesome for keeping it compact with a good sound.
Bloodspiller wrote:Not to spam you, but basslink's are next to worthless. I would sell it to a high school kid who doesn't like to turn a wrench, and buy a real sub with an amp. Build yourself a box to the right spec, and even have the shape of it fit snugly against your back seat.
The Basslink, is a decent beginers sub.
Its Box is the proper size for the 10" it encloses, with the recommened Amp for it as well.
Hook up is real easy and you have several mounting options.
You can mount it upright, or on its side.
My old one was on its side, screwed into the spare tire cover. And it worked well then.
I bought it off Lundis, one of our Audio Forum Gods.
He installed, and he even said it sounded as good as his (2) 12ers.
“Facts are meaningless. You could use facts to prove anything that’s even remotely
true.
Cannon fodder is my daddy.
Specifications
Dimensions (H x W x D): 14-1/2" x 12-1/2" x 8"
MSRP U.S. $: 499.95
Power Output: 200W
Frequency Response (±3dB): 20Hz - 100Hz
Variable Bass EQ: +3dB to -6dB at 45Hz
Variable Electronic Crossover: 70Hz - 100Hz
Designed to deliver low frequencies in virtually any car audio system, BassLink truly has universal appeal. Small in size but big in output, BassLink requires a mere .75 cubic feet of trunk space yet produces enough bass to wake up the neighborhood.
BassLink consists of a 10-inch subwoofer, 10-inch passive radiator and a 200-watt Class D amplifier housed in a rigid polymer enclosure, all carefully engineered to work together as a unique, integrated system. The extremely versatile BassLink accepts both speaker- and line-level inputs, and it provides an internal low-pass filter, proprietary signal processing and abundant amplification.
The BassLink system features a servo-control circuit that continually monitors the voice coil’s position in the magnetic gap and prevents the distortion that occurs when a conventional woofer is overdriven. By integrating cone-excursion information with the instantaneous demands of the music, BassLink can extract loud and deep bass from an enclosure smaller than any before.
BassLink includes a fixed, 2nd-order, high-pass filter that eliminates the possibility of over-excursion below Fb, the resonant (tuned) frequency of the vented box. This allows the excursion-monitoring circuit to focus on the excursion at the more meaningful frequencies at and above Fb. The result is a significant increase in bass output.
User-adjustable controls allow listeners to set the system’s response to achieve optimum performance based on the vehicle’s cabin gain or transfer function. These controls include: a 0- or 180-degree phase switch; a continuously variable electronic low-pass filter that is adjustable between 70 and 100Hz; variable input sensitivity; and Bass EQ that provides for adjustments between +3 and –6dB. BassLink’s frequency response in a typical vehicle is 20 to 100Hz (±3dB), but this varies according to the vehicle and user adjustments. At maximum gain, the system can accept inputs as low as 250mV.
BassLink can accept up to four channels of input – to provide nonfading bass – either from line-level signals through four RCA jacks or from high-level signals through a pair of Molex connectors, allowing BassLink to be easily connected to OEM systems. If using the speaker-level inputs, an audio-sense circuit will turn on the amplifier whenever a signal is present. If the RCAs are used, a 12-volt, remote-turn-on lead is required. The system has barrier strip connections for power, ground and remote turn-on.
“Facts are meaningless. You could use facts to prove anything that’s even remotely
true.
Cannon fodder is my daddy.
I sell them, hear them, and install them. They sound decent, but for the money you can do a lot better. As for the quality comment, it is not impossible to tune a regular sub setup to be good quality as opposed to just loud. I rank the basslink with the Audiobahn bass tube: Good for what it is, but not for what you pay or what you could have with just a little more effort.
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Hell hath no fury like a pissed off balloon animal.
"Sup, G?"
"Aren't you white?"
"Only on the outside, craka."
Now granted the MSRP is $500, but i can buy the Basslink T's for $250, and the original Basslink, new for $75.
After all the basslink has been around for alot of years.
“Facts are meaningless. You could use facts to prove anything that’s even remotely
true.
Cannon fodder is my daddy.
Well i'll tell you what...i bought mine for 150...and for a guy who only listens to rock....its perfect. See i don't just wanna screw it to the back seat cuz it looks cheesy. I doubt there is anything else i can do with it though. Oh well thanks for backing me up. I have the money to go with a big setup....but i'm in a rock band and i don't listen to much rap so i don't need the huge setup. I've heard alot of setups that sound worse. And the sub hits alot harder than some of the other 10's i've heard and even a few 12's.
If I wanted opinion on whether they were good to buy or what people thought of them I woulda posted "What do you think of Infinity Basslink?" like every other newbie would. And for someone who doesn't even have an aftermarket head unit you got balls to talk Bloodspiller.
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Put some velcro on the bottom of it Just the Plastic part not the softer part of the velcro and it shouldnt budge
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84 Fiero
That's actually a pretty good idea. I don't know if the feet will give me enough area to adhere to. I'll have to check that out.
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which basslink did you get the single 10 single resonator or the single 10 double resonator? cuz i had the bigger 200w one and it sounded clean and hit mildly hard but i burnt the thing up after like 23.5 hours and got so fed up with infinity that i got my money back. but that is just me. if you baby them then you will be ok. in other words don't turn it up very loud.
04silvercavy wrote:which basslink did you get the single 10 single resonator or the single 10 double resonator? cuz i had the bigger 200w one and it sounded clean and hit mildly hard but i burnt the thing up after like 23.5 hours and got so fed up with infinity that i got my money back. but that is just me. if you baby them then you will be ok. in other words don't turn it up very loud.
Umm, The basslink has 1 10" sub and 1 10" Passive radiator.
They are all 200W Class D powered except the new BasslinkT's.
Ive had no problems turning my volume to max, and everything rattle in the car.
Let me guess, you had the gain all the way up, the db level all the way up, and the crossover maxed too.
Because if you read the warning labal, it said not to do that.
“Facts are meaningless. You could use facts to prove anything that’s even remotely
true.
Cannon fodder is my daddy.
i had the basslink "t" and no i didnt have the stuff all the way up
it has 1 10" sub and 2 10" passive radiators and a class D 200w amp
the regular basslink has 1 10" and 1 10" passive radiator and is only rated at 150w
i worked at circuit city and dealt with them everyday i think i know.
check the specs
my bad 200w for the regular one and 250w for the "t" big difference in resonance actually. sound sweet inside the cavy but for people who like spl they suck.
best way to attach them is to use velcro. trust me it works and i haul ass and the thing never moved.
04silvercavy wrote:my bad 200w for the regular one and 250w for the "t" big difference in resonance actually. sound sweet inside the cavy but for people who like spl they suck.
best way to attach them is to use velcro. trust me it works and i haul ass and the thing never moved.
I guess you missed the part about:
Quote:
and for a guy who only listens to rock....its perfect.
I dont think he had any intentions of going into an SPL competion.
And as for the Basslink T, Considering they only have been out for 6 months, im surprised you base your assumptions on free air tests.
Basslink T's are meant for the small confines of truck interiors, Not wide open buildings.
I currenty have 2 Basslink T's im my trunk, and i have yet to hear a bad comment about them, or even a bad comment with the old Basslink.
I usually let people sit inside and guess whats in the trunk. Ive heard everything from 2 12's, to 2 15's. And when i open the trunk, they are quite amazed that such a little box has such great bass reproduction.
And besides, Everyone knows Infinity is Better used for SQ then SPL, after all, when was the last time you heard an Infinity Distort even when heavily overpowered?
Oh and 04silvercavy, you may have worked for a generic electronic company, but ive been working for Avenue Sound for 2 years. They sell some of the most high end products here, and some of the best installs around. I do most of there Promotions manager.
www.avenuesound.com
“Facts are meaningless. You could use facts to prove anything that’s even remotely
true.
Cannon fodder is my daddy.
I had a basslink "t" in my trunk for approximately 23.5 hours before the thing broke. and infinity has the worst customer service ive ever encountered. So it might have just been my bad luck but i will never mess with infinity car audio again.
Man....what did i start
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Ive never had a problem with Infinity's CS, and ive dealt with them for the last 10 years.
And if it broke, it gets replaced for free, you dont even pay S&h charges.
But if it broke you most likely did something wrong. Either Mounted improperly, bad ground, bad connections, or you messed up something on the settings.
You do know there is a "break in" period for them, so they will perform properly.
“Facts are meaningless. You could use facts to prove anything that’s even remotely
true.
Cannon fodder is my daddy.
