While I was driving home today my subs (2 MTX Thunder 4500's in sledgehammer enclosure) just went off
. I figured my ground came out so no biggie but I checked anyway and pulled the seat down and I could still see the LED power indicator on the amp (Kenwood KAC-7201) so that kina put me a bad mood b/c now sumthin is broke/disconnected/fried and i don't know what. The amp is still getting power, I checked it when i got home and it was cool so it didn't overheat. The RCA's look fine and the speaker wire doesn't look burned fuses on amp are fine as well. Does anyone know what else it could be (yes everything is hooked up)? . If all else fails I still have a warranty on the subs to fall back on but don't want to look stupid by going in there and having it be bad wiring or something.
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Try pulling the deck to see if the RCA's are still plugged in also pull the subs out of t he box and make sure the wires are still hooked up
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Did you check for a loose battery connection?
Fact 1:
“Facts are meaningless. You could use facts to prove anything that’s even remotely
true.
MY friend had the same amps and fried them easily...the protect light would always stay on. Check your inline fuse, see if you can push the cone in a tad without any reluctance (if it is stiff you blew a voice coil). If i had to bet on 2 things itd either be the amp has gone bad or the coil blew.
Clean and Shaven
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That Kenwood amp cant power two MTX 4500 subs. My thought is the amp was trying to put out too much power and it over heated. That’s just me though. There are several things to check with the symptoms you gave us.
First of all it won't be a fuse or a loose battery connection or else he wouldn't get any power. Second, pressing on the cone of a thunder4500 isn't efficient to actually tell if the coil is melted. (Yea some times you can tell but others you cant.) My best advice is to go out to sears and buy a multi meter for $20. (If you are into car stereos this will be your best buddy.) Set the multi meter to OHM and check the voice coil. It should read right around 4 OHMs (If it is a 4 OHM SVC). If that is fine switch it over to the AC or VAC position and check for signal on your RCA connections. If that passes there are only two other options. Test the speaker out puts on the amp with another speaker and substitute the source unit with a known good one. If all that fails and you still don’t know what the problem is you are out of luck.....
the amp should power them.. i had it bridged at 4 ohms X 1 which is 450RMS and the subs recommend 225 rms a piece so that should be good. After taking apart the box it I guess both coils are fried?? I can't push in on either speaker. I have one out of the box but I don't know what to look for for a definite answer. What should it look like?
<img src="http://registry.gmenthusiast.com/images/xonic/jbodysigx.jpg">
I'm doubting it but does anyone think the warranty will cover it?
P.S I'm officially a dumbass when I sat here to type this I put the sub on the computer desk and spent 5 minutes trying to figure out why the colors on my monitor were all @!#$ up and then I look at the magnet on the sub
<img src="http://registry.gmenthusiast.com/images/xonic/jbodysigx.jpg">
yea it should u pushed almost 2000watts to a apline type S a 900 watt max speaker because it was dinged up so i could take it back and all they did was look at the receipt and they toke it back
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