Lately I have been planning on doing some sort of custom set up in my trunk of my 97 Cavalier. I would like to do 2 12's and a mono amp and a 4 channel amp. I have talked to some guys who have done false floors and some that have done fiberglass. I just would like to see some set ups in a Cavalier trunk and then get some more ideas from the pros. Thanks.
It's all up to you man. Use your imagination. Everyone's taste and style is different. I daily drive my car and use it a lot, so I opted to mount everything hidden and just use a basic, easily removable sub box. Some people want to go nuts and don't ever use the trunk space.
But on a slightly different topic that concerns me more than the look of your trunk setup lol, you said you want to do a pair of 12" subs with a mono amp, and a 4 channel amp, but made no mention of what you were doing to upgrade your front speakers? I'm sure that's just because you're asking about trunk set up layouts, but just clarifying... definitely don't just pop subs in and amp some bummy old coaxials
(tabs) wrote:z yaaaa wrote:its not much fun trying to argue with a wall.
oh, trust us, we know
I already got all my speakers upgraded to the Infinity Reference. First thing I did. Currently I am running two Kicker Comp 12's With a Kenwood 2-channel amp with a Sony deck. After My trunk is all said and done I also plan on putting 6.5's in the doors and adding tweeters just to get the full sound and not just go boom.
As far as the trunk goes I was thinking about doing a lifter false floor to put amps under and than just do a basic box. What do you think?
That's how I would do it, if I did anything different than what I have lol. I was actually considering the false floor idea, but I found a way more convenient place for my amp as well as my crossovers that didn't take any space at all.
As for upgrading the speakers and such, it's not as simple as replacing factory speakers and adding tweeters to get the full range. A good simple way to do it right would be to get a 6.5" component set. A component set has 6.5" mids to play all the mid range frequencies, usually 1" tweeters to play the high frequencies, and a passive crossover setup to make sure each frequency goes to the right speaker and at the right volume relative to each other.
I would consider higher end equipment than Sony, Comp's, and Kenwood(aside from their Excelon stuff). but if you're happy with your equipment, I can't say otherwise, they're your ears lol. I also know not everyone's budget allows the ability to have the nicer stuff lol.
(tabs) wrote:z yaaaa wrote:its not much fun trying to argue with a wall.
oh, trust us, we know
Don't worry. I am upgrading my eqipment with my new setup. That was my first system and I was just in a hurry to get bummin. Now I am looking at Memphis M-Class 12's or the Memphis PR 12's for the subs. And than might do the Focal 6.5 components.
As far as the false floor what do you think would be safe. Maybe a 2 inch raise with the mass of it made from MDF? Or possibly plexiglass to add the showy feature to it? Or a combination and just have plexi over the amps? I see that you are fairly experienced in audio so I would really like to get your opinions on this before I start throwing out huge wads of cash. I mean after all, I'm 16 and a part time cook at a chinese restaruant. Haha.
Well you and I can talk later about equipment specifically. If you are looking into Memphis and Focal, I would love to show you how to get above Memphis and on Focal's level cheaper and maybe even better
But that's for later lol.
As for the false floor, the way I was going to do it (in my car my entire audio system is running off a single 4 channel amp), I was going to make an amp rack in the spare tire well and basically just make an MDF copy of the spare tire cover with a plexi window over the amp. If you want to actually do a raised false floor to accommodate more amps and such, I would make the floor out of half inch MDF and all the risers out of MDF scraps or 2x4 pieces. Make them as tall as needed to clear the amps and give room for air flow. Just remember, to inlay a piece of plexi into the MDF floor, you will want a router. That way you could simply cut the hole about 1/2" to an inch small in each direction, use a router the depth of whatever the thickness of plexi you use to get the exact size right, so now you have the plexi flush with the floor, use good adhesive to hold it in, and if you want, what I would do is paint a 1" black border around the perimiter of the plexi to hide the glue/joint.
That's my opinion anyway
I like things clean, simple, sleek, and as hidden as possible.
Refer here to what kind of install I prefer on a car that I will be driving daily lol:
http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=4&i=170117&t=170117
(tabs) wrote:z yaaaa wrote:its not much fun trying to argue with a wall.
oh, trust us, we know
Alright sounds good. I will keep looking into some things in the near future. If all goes right I would like it done before the Spring. Thanks for the advice thus far though!
Not a problem. There are a few of us here in the Audio forum that enjoy giving advice to people who ask for it and need it. Also, when it comes time to talk in detail about your audio goals and upgrade ideas, I'll be here.
(tabs) wrote:z yaaaa wrote:its not much fun trying to argue with a wall.
oh, trust us, we know
I got started today if you wanna check out my progress thread.
