Ok here is where I'm at.
1. I have the EP27 LED flasher.
2. I have the LED rear and works fine (flasher and light).
3. I have the front where the flasher works fine, but the parking lights are VERY dim. I remove the front side marker light, and now the front works perfect.
As you can see I share the side marker with the front parking lights.
Now my LED bulbs uses a shared negative and that to me is what is not making the parking LEDs work correctly.
Load resistors will not work because of the schematics of the car.
So my questions are how could I make them work, and does anybody know where I can get a LED that has separate negatives that work independently?
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-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
Hi kind sir. So here's the good word. Your side marker lights, ground them separately. There's a few places that are fairly close to the wiring that you could extend slightly and get yourself a pretty good ground. Also, get a meter out. Are you mixing LED and incandescent bulbs? Check voltages with the grounds all together, i bet you're dropping voltage to the side markers.
Your car may do 13 sec @ 103 mph, but my car does 146db @ 35 hz.
I'm running LEDs on the front and side. If I put a filament bulb on the side marker, then the filament bulb is very dim along with the front LED. If I place a LED on the side marker, the led is bright, but the front LED is still dim.
So you're suggesting to ground the side marker lights?
Thanks for the help btw.
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-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
Looks like i will need to use load resistors?
Does any one know how do they work? I'm looking at a 25 Ohm, 25 Watt resistors. Does that mean that I will be consuming 25 watts on each corner to run LEDs?
My main reason to get LEDs is for lower power consumption.
Maybe someone can shine some light on this, no pun intended.
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-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
They're rated for 25 watts, not that they'll consume that much wattage. Do your flashers blink super quick?
Your car may do 13 sec @ 103 mph, but my car does 146db @ 35 hz.
OK, so now the weird part comes in. Let me know what voltages look like when your marker lights are on. The load resistor is usually needed when you do away with the front marker, or do a different style of marker. With the electronic flasher, it shouldn't make a difference what lights you use because it doesn't blink based off of resistance. The marker filament doesn't matter, point in case I used some lights that I got at Central Tractor as front marker lights, they were a 194 bulb, and there wasn't any dimming. The headlights are a negative switch, but the markers and turn signals are a positive switch. Let me know if voltages look low, and we'll do some more trouble shooting.
Your car may do 13 sec @ 103 mph, but my car does 146db @ 35 hz.
I really have no way to check that.^^
I think from what I am seeing on the these LEDs, the parking and turn signal share the ground, instead of a free for all like on a filament bulb. So what I'm getting the bulb internals does not give enough juice to light up. Which why I think resistors won't work.
I thought of running the lights in parallel, instead of sequence, but the bulb will still not function correctly.
Running out of ideas, and I'm about 90% in thinking of returning it.
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-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
You can always try grounding the 3357 sockets to another spot. The load is only for turn signals, which the flasher doesn't affect the brightness or voltage to the markers. Both the side marker and the front marker see 12 volts all the time. ONLY other thing I can think of is a bad set of LEDs. Try grounding the front marker/flasher socket elsewhere, see what that does. If not, send those LEDs back. The only other thing it could be is a bad stalk inside not getting a good connection to the bulbs, but if incandescent works, then it's going to be pointing at those particular LED bulbs. I'm thinking out loud, putting it all down... If the fronts are real dim, there's a voltage drop, and shouldn't be, because LEDs will put less of a load than an incandescent bulb. I'm going to start to put money on the front set of LED bulbs, the ones that go into the 3357 socket.
Your car may do 13 sec @ 103 mph, but my car does 146db @ 35 hz.
I'm going see on this^^
Sorry if my last post was confusing, so I drew up a quick diagram of what is happening.
I bought a white/amber led; the one with 4 prongs. 3 prongs one were as iffy too. They work fine when I connect to a battery charger.
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-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
#3 could work, but eventually they all get grounded to the body, and then to the battery anyways. Now do your LED lights have a built in diode in them? For a good laugh, toss them in the back and see if it does the same thing for the brake/turn signal back there. If it's the same scenario, you have bad LED bulbs. Sounds like a bad load resistor in the bulbs, if they're not 12 volt LEDs.
Your car may do 13 sec @ 103 mph, but my car does 146db @ 35 hz.
Yhea, it looks like the only way these lights will work if the bulb's ground is independent, or if the car's turn signal works in parallel instead of in sequence. These LED (actually all LED) bulbs are still to universal and not designed to work with our style of electrical. It looks like I will have to return these, and hope in the future some company comes out with another internal bulb design, one that does not share the ground for parking and turn signal.
Thanks a million Lanman for your help.
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-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
You're welcome brother. What brand are those, so other people know not to get them?
Your car may do 13 sec @ 103 mph, but my car does 146db @ 35 hz.
^Good idea it will avoid some headaches.
The company are VLEDS.com,
http://store.ijdmtoy.com/ and ebay's seller virtualvillage-au-alpha all sell the same bulb just different names/sellers. And until they have bulb like in that diagram above with independent grounds, it will not work properly.
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-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
Mr.Goodwrench-G.T. wrote:^Good idea it will avoid some headaches.
The company are VLEDS.com, http://store.ijdmtoy.com/ and ebay's seller virtualvillage-au-alpha all sell the same bulb just different names/sellers. And until they have bulb like in that diagram above with independent grounds, it will not work properly.
I personally have used V-LEDS before. They are bright but depending on what bulb you got is the real key. Most people I have come across have gotten the SMT style led bulbs. The more leds it has the brighter it will be. Also what color are you putting in? The color of the leds should also match the lens it goes under otherwise most of the light will not pass through.
From the looks of it, they all use the same bulbs from china, so they are universal and they can not run in sequence. It can have one led, to one thousand leds, if your turn signal upfront takes turns flashing, LEDs will not correctly, just because the they share the ground and in the end, it is to much resistance.
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-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
