So I completed the Big 3 this morning and upon starting my car I noticed that the head unit was still getting a little dim with the volume starting at around 1/2 - 3/4+.
I thought by having the upgrade it was supposed to eliminate head unit dimming. I also have a thicker wire (i think a 12ga) running straight from the battery to the head unit.
The ground on the head unit is separate as well, not using the wiring harness ground. It is bolted down with a star lock washer as well.
Im not concerned with the wiring on the head unit, but I was a little skeptical of the ground that ran from engine to the chassis of the Big 3 upgrade.
http://s769.photobucket.com/albums/xx340/mooselove8988/
As of now I don't have any amps or anything other than 4 speakers.
I did the upgrade to accommodate:
infinity kappa 6x9 (2 sets)
infinity perfect 6.5's components
4x6 (reference)
1200 watt kappa 4 amps (2x)
1000 watt jl audio slash
jl audio 13w7 woofer
Next pay check I am in the market for a new yellow top and a ho alternator.
Should I move the engine ground?
Advice or criticism is welcome.
Thanks
From looking at the pics, it seems that you didn't grind down the contact point under the ground. Try that and make sure its. Clean bare metal spot and see if that helps
144db@38hz! It hurts so good !
@!#$ty ground from the motor and @!#$ty ground to chassis. Take your motor ground from the alt bracket and grind down the ground on the chassis. Also make sure your terminals are tight.
also not a good spot becaust if you had rubbin gyou could arc out on the fuel rail or lines and thats not very good either i would definatly move that
JBO since July 30, 2001
also reconnect your factory ground its nott gonna hurt anythign and looks half assed with it just dangling there
JBO since July 30, 2001
Okay so I just moved the engine chassis ground to the alternator bracket, or at least the air compressor bracket. I was optimistic about putting it where I did because I wasn't sure if it would be a great metal to metal contact and sure enough I still have a little dimming.
So yet again I will be moving it to a bolt that doesn't share a bracket.
I also sanded the hell out of the contact points to bare shiny metal and used hex head bolts to fasten them down.
For now the car can get me to work so I get to tinker some more tomorrow night.
I will move it tomorrow and post progress.
I will reconnect the factory ground when I get a longer terminal post. Payday only comes so often.
Thanks again for the advice.
This morning I took the bracket off and now the bolt is only occupied by the new ground. I may take off that terminal and put on a new smaller inside diameter one so it bolts down better.
In the pic it looks like I put the nut on backwards, because I actually did. It goes as follows. Bolt-Wire Terminal-Nut-Bracket-Nut on backwards.
There is indeed a nut holding the terminal down, but the reason for the one on the end being backwards is because that was the only way I could get it to fit and it is only needed to hold the bracket there and nothing else.
So my predicament is still eluding me. I still have dimming. I am now possibly doubting my positive connection being as tight as it could be.
I know the grounds are friggin tight. I am thinking that maybe it could be the battery itself not being built to take that sort of demand that an audio system draws.
Could that be a reason it is still dimming? I will be upgrading to a yellow top as soon as cash provides itself. As well as a new ho alt.
I have new pics.
http://s769.photobucket.com/albums/xx340/mooselove8988/
Also some of my new toys should be arriving today and hopefully I will have the 6x9's in and hooked up to the amp by tonight.
I am still waiting on my kick panels.
Let me know what you guys think.
I appreciate it.
Take a DMM and check the resting voltage of your battery. Also use your DMM to test what voltage the alternator is charging at.
