ok. so im looking at two MA audio 15" subs. one is 2000w RMS 4k peak dual 2 ohm(i think) 400oz magnet, the other is 600rms 1200 peak dual 4 ohm 260oz magnet.
can a stock charging system handle 2000 watts? i plan on a yellow top and a cap either way.
Listen F***ers. FASTERTHANAHONDA is a joke because I WORK FOR HONDA. I'll talk @!#$ about Fords to, that doesn't mean I can beat a 12 second mustang.
Hard to say with certainty, given how much difference there is from one amp to another. The pair of amps I'm using have a conservative RMS output of only 600 watts, and yet I can still bring the stock charging system to its knees (and the "big three" upgrade only helped a little bit). I think a better guideline would be to look at the fuses used by the amplifiers. If they total more than 80-100 amps, you're likely going to be able to overdrive the alternator quite easily as it is only good for about 80 amps of output for everything. (My Kicker ZR360 uses 80 amps in fuses on its own, yet is rated only 400 watts RMS mono).
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funny thing is he never said a thing about amps just subs
I can have 10 5000watt subs in my car and without a amp it pulls no power!!! What amps are you going to use>?
steven c. wrote:funny thing is he never said a thing about amps just subs I can have 10 5000watt subs in my car and without a amp it pulls no power!!! What amps are you going to use>?
I gave the benefit of the doubt and assumed amplifiers would eventually be involved. My point was that to produce that sort of RMS wattage, you are going to have to look at how many amps the amplifiers will draw. The stock electrical system certainly has enough power to make a lot of noise, but I don't think you'll approach those sorts of numbers without major sags, clipping, and ultimately sub damage.
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600 watts makes a stock electrical cry? at 100 percent efficiency at 12 volt (i'm trying to be loose on this) you're only pulling 50 amps. Now if you have your air conditioning on and your headlights, yeah, i can see it dimming. Try running 4500+ rms on a stock electrical, THEN it cries.
Lanman31337 - Cavfire wrote:600 watts makes a stock electrical cry? at 100 percent efficiency at 12 volt (i'm trying to be loose on this) you're only pulling 50 amps. Now if you have your air conditioning on and your headlights, yeah, i can see it dimming. Try running 4500+ rms on a stock electrical, THEN it cries.
With my engine running I get a float voltage of about 14 volts, and I can bring that down to about 10.5 with the stereo alone (as observed by volt gauge that leeches from the radio circuit). I'm willing to accept that my alternator may be getting tired, but I do know that the amplifiers have two x 40A fuses (Kicker), and single 30A (Pioneer). I'm not sure how much reserve they would have built into them, but if they are protected for 110A, I suspect they're capable of pulling more than 50A in operation. As I say, I think the Kicker is way under-rated.
Kind of as an aside -- what sort of on-amp fuse capacity do some of the higher-output amplfiers out there have? I'm just trying to get an idea of where my 80A-fused Kicker amp stands, assuming it actually uses most of that power. I'm not convinced it's only doing 400 watts.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Tuesday, November 20, 2007 7:15 AM
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Mine have 3 40 amp fuses on them i think, it's been a while. At 14 volts it'll do 1800 watt @ 1/2 ohm. Now your kicker almost guarenteed is rated at 14 volts as well. If you're dropping that much with just a 10 amp head unit, you've got some serious problems.
Lanman31337 - Cavfire wrote:If you're dropping that much with just a 10 amp head unit, you've got some serious problems.
I did mean stereo -- including amplifiers -- but still agreed. I'm pretty sure I've done all I can from a cable and grounding standpoint (with two runs of 4-gauge to the trunk, and the big-three upgrade). The battery is new, but granted, it is doing everything on it's own.
I've had my doubts about how long my original 10-year-old alternator has left, but until it dies and I consider an upgrade, I can just cope with moderately loud listening volumes.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Tuesday, November 20, 2007 8:05 AM
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You should be fine with around 1000 watt rms with a stock alternator, but I would go with a better battery as well.
Mine are rated at 2500 watts at 1 ohm. do a few hundred more. around 2800 ish or so and pull around 300 amps. .5 ohm and the draw is like 400 amps. They are not fused. that is up to you to do. I ran 2 of those amps at 1 ohm on a stock alt with two yellow tops . I could stall the car out at idle if I let it rip. thats bringing your electrical to its knees lol.
He speaks the truth. My kidneys still bleed. You aint' got nothing until you turn your stereo up, your car stalls, and batteries all die instantaneously
thats insane....so with about 1000watts rms i should be ok...cuz i plan on pushing that much
yes you should. Do the big 3 upgrade get a better battery and i dont see too many issues.
watts = amps x volts
stock alt, 105 amps?
alt voltage, 14.4
1512 watts
but what will happen long before that is the voltage will drop and the battery will kick in the additional current to drive your system. i doubt the stock alt makes 105 amps at idle
14.82 @ 97 mph
thanks guys....usefull info!!
Jasonoshawaz24 wrote:watts = amps x volts
stock alt, 105 amps?
alt voltage, 14.4
1512 watts
105 is what i found but 1500W seemed like to much, not to mention spark, lights, and i know my heater fan can kill my battery in 15 minutes flat. im thinking a voltmeter is going to be included in my audio set-up. cant be a bad idea.
sorry about not mentioning the amp. its all in my profile if you look but as for the larger sub i hadnt matched an amp to it yet..
Listen F***ers. FASTERTHANAHONDA is a joke because I WORK FOR HONDA. I'll talk @!#$ about Fords to, that doesn't mean I can beat a 12 second mustang.
Jasonoshawaz24 wrote:watts = amps x volts
stock alt, 105 amps?
alt voltage, 14.4
1512 watts
but what will happen long before that is the voltage will drop and the battery will kick in the additional current to drive your system. i doubt the stock alt makes 105 amps at idle
You also need amperage to keep other things going like turn signals, headlights, heat, air, windows, etc... plus just keeping the motor running uses amperage. Also, your alt. voltage guarenteed doesn't put out 14.4, more closer to 13.6 or less, which gives you around 1428, and that's leaving you with say 30 more amps of pull. Turn on your air, kiss it goodbye.
Quote:
You also need amperage to keep other things going like turn signals, headlights, heat, air, windows, etc... plus just keeping the motor running uses amperage
thats what i mentioned in my last post. all that and it occured to me; the speakers to! lol theres another 200w. i went with the smaller one. its a drag car, not an SPL car. i didnt need a 60 pound sub, plus bigger alt, extra battery, etc. thanks ya'll
Listen F***ers. FASTERTHANAHONDA is a joke because I WORK FOR HONDA. I'll talk @!#$ about Fords to, that doesn't mean I can beat a 12 second mustang.
Lanman31337 - Cavfire wrote:Jasonoshawaz24 wrote:watts = amps x volts
stock alt, 105 amps?
alt voltage, 14.4
1512 watts
but what will happen long before that is the voltage will drop and the battery will kick in the additional current to drive your system. i doubt the stock alt makes 105 amps at idle
You also need amperage to keep other things going like turn signals, headlights, heat, air, windows, etc... plus just keeping the motor running uses amperage. Also, your alt. voltage guarenteed doesn't put out 14.4, more closer to 13.6 or less, which gives you around 1428, and that's leaving you with say 30 more amps of pull. Turn on your air, kiss it goodbye.
Even at full tilt he's not going to be pulling 1000 watts all the time anyway.
wysiwyg wrote:i would say they bang, they don't really pound so much. but if
you want to bump, then they will bump and hit real hard and a lot good.
LOL
me= 5kw+ on stock alt with dual batts...for a few years, lol. never asploded nutting!!
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As a follow up from me, my earlier comparisons may be cast into doubt since I'm almost certain that my stock alternator is on its way out. Now that Winter has come, I've noticed my voltage is erratic on an idle if there are any loads at all. I can send the regulator into a seizure (jumps between 11-13 volts) by using the headlights, rear defroster and blower fan at the same time.
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