In my 92' Cav i made the mistake of doing my audio half assed the first time.....and spent 2wice as much when stuff broke or blew.
Im going to do my 00' cav right the first time. Im going to make a custom box and amp rack, and carpet them to match the trunk. But i had a few questions.
Will Dynamat be a good investment?
Are any 'alternative' options (on ebay for instance) worth buying?
I don't want to spend more than 100-125 to sound deaden, is that realistic?
ALSO, How many sq Feet about? 50? 100?? Im reading people do multiple layers?
unless you are going crazy bass set up, get the system running and just dynamat as needed. completely dynamatint just adds 20-60lbs to a car, now if you want to save i had a friend use accumat from walmart in his turbo sundance and it kept the hatch from rattling.
yikes! So if i had a trunk rattle do the lid, or if i had a rattle underneath the car do the floor, and do the back deck?
just so you know something will rattle. always. you do the trunk lid something else will. do that something else will then something else. if you want an impressive car audio setup do the entire thing. or just go loud enough that unless its concrete it wont make a difference.
i used eDead V1 from Elemental Designs. i used 100 sq.ft. and with our forum discount it cost about 100 shipped. worked great and did my whole car.
i just used peel and seal from lowes. works great. havent had one problem yet. and for the price you cant beat it. $50 for 125 sq feet. i believe its alot im trying to find place to apply it now just so i can get rid of it.
theres only turbo shadows, shelby shadows, but NO turbo sundance's.
Jeff Krabec wrote:unless you are going crazy bass set up, get the system running and just dynamat as needed. completely dynamatint just adds 20-60lbs to a car, now if you want to save i had a friend use accumat from walmart in his turbo sundance and it kept the hatch from rattling.
Just replying to this statement.
Wojo wrote:i used eDead V1 from Elemental Designs. i used 100 sq.ft. and with our forum discount it cost about 100 shipped. worked great and did my whole car.
Yep, that's the stuff to use IMO too. I bought like 80 sq.ft. of V1 and then 10 sq.ft. V1SE2 for my trunk.
Check them out:
Elemental Designs eDead
-Seth
there were turbo sundances, two that i know of
CrAzY Z24 wrote:Jeff Krabec wrote:unless you are going crazy bass set up, get the system running and just dynamat as needed. completely dynamatint just adds 20-60lbs to a car, now if you want to save i had a friend use accumat from walmart in his turbo sundance and it kept the hatch from rattling.
Just replying to this statement.
yea your reply really had something to do with this thread and you helped Mark decide on what kinda of sound deadner to use by tellin us what cars came turbo.... thanks for the useless info.
i've been told that 100 sq ft would be enough to do the trunk twice. I've talked to different people that have used different products. Stuff like Brown Bread, Dynamat, Spray on deadner from Autozone and walmart, Home Improvement stuff, stuff from ED. The deadner from ED seems to be the fav, around here. I;ve never used it tho so i cant tell you from experience.
I bought the 100sq ft pack of dynamat and did most of my trunk. It came in 9 sheets and I did the trunck lid, the bottom and side of the trunck, and the back deck. Keep in mind that when doing the trunk you have to account for the curves and bends in the body that will make you use more of the sheet to cover less space.
After I put it in there was a noticable difference in the deepness of the bass and the rattle. Im pushing 2 Kicker Comp VR 12's on a 1000watt rms Alpine.... so I had some major ratling back there.
cost be like $120 I belive.... over chraged
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"Laying in bed one night, I said "Where did I go worng?". Then I heard a voice say "This is going to take a while..."
[quote=DrÃkÉ]i just used peel and seal from lowes. works great. havent had one problem yet. and for the price you cant beat it. $50 for 125 sq feet. i believe its alot im trying to find place to apply it now just so i can get rid of it.
OK, I guess I will use my last post of the month for this.
1. Peel and Seel is NOT MADE FOR DEADENING CARS. It is not butyl based, it might stand up to the temperaturs, but I can almost garuntee it will get messy. It does not have an Aluminum backing to help with sound reflection. It is over all not built for it. Otherwise, you would see sound deadening companies selling it with their names on it. There is a reason sound deadener cost more and is made differently. It is purpose built and specificaly designed for that one purpose.
Sound deadener has 2 parts. The Aluminum or Mylar backing and the BUTYL BASED ABSORPTION LAYER.
These do 2 different things.. the Butyl based deadener deadens the pannel, adds mass to it, and absorbs virbation.
the aluminum or mylar backing helps reflect noise from traveling through the pannel.
PEEL AND SEEL IS NOT DESIGNED TO DO EITHER OF THESE TASKS.
www.sounddeadenershowdown.com
go there, learn something.
NOW, as far as brands that I would recomend..
Elemental Designs V1se2 is very nice and definately worth the price, far thicker than their plain V1 and only a tad bit more per sq foot.
also check out SecondSkinAudio.com they are highly reguarded in the audio world for having the absolute best deadeners available, and have been tested to prove such claims.
I have heard people rave about raammat at well, but have no personal experience with it.
I CAN'T STAND MISINFORMING PEOPLE!
I'm not saying anyone is intentionaly misinforming anybody here. But there are good reasons for price differences between peel and seel, edead and secondskin. its R&D, composition, and quality for the reason they are made.
Peel and Seel is not butyl based, it is asphault based and the fumes can be harmfull to you, especialy in a small encloser area like a car. Remember, that crap is designed to go under shingles, not 2 feet under you in an enclosed area.
Summary: look into eD if you want some realy good deadener for a good price, and if you wanna spend more and go a tad more extreme, check out Second Skin.
As far as how much and where to start. A realy good starting point would be 80-100 sq ft. and start with your doors. finding a good solid way to cover as many access holes in the door frame as possible, and deadening every inch you can, once the doors are amply covered, move to the trunk lid and trunk floor. left over can then be used where necesary, i suggest rear deck next.
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
KevinP (Stabby McShankyou) wrote:not funny... i just can't find that funny... not with 2 copies of the Candyland board game on your shelf.
believe everything this man just said/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
eDead as well here.... except I didn't know bout the forum discount, so I purchased at retail
i got stuff from my sponser, www.jlcaudio.net i only have one layer down in my trunk (i got 100 sq feet) and this week i will be laying another layer down. and it is decently priced i believe 100 feet for like 100 bucks but dont quote me on it.
Well.....Im probably going to check out ed and get some of that, its reasonable in price and i can order what i need. Thanks for all the replies i really apreciate it.....
Now its time to get some bass..... yeah!
say what you will but for the non competition, everyday user, peal and seal works great for me. it may not be made for this or that, but it does help.
if you want cheap, half ass, dont really care - peal and seal
if you want competition grade, pro stuff - go name brand
i just wanted to spend as little as possible and get it done quick, didnt want to wait or pay for shipping, got a discount at lowes. all in all i spent a grand total of $35 for 130 sq ft of p&s...
works for me.
www.b-quiet.com
cheaper, lighter, better
1989 Turbo Trans Am #82, 2007 Cobalt SS G85
Lighter isn't always better for sound deadening applications, It all depends on the specifics of the products.
With a mass loading product, such as a mat deadener, weight is the goal, that is how it reduces vibrations and resonance. The added weight takes vibrations and transfers it into heat. The more mass the better job of reducing vibrations. The law of diminishing returns does come into play once you go beyond a certain thickness.
The next method of deadening is with a liquid sound deadener. Which does act as a mass loader, but typically the weight is much less. When comparing eDead products, a gallon of V3 comes in around 10lbs, which covers roughly 40-50square feet depending on thickness. While the V1SE^2 is around .5lb per square foot. The same square footage would run you around 20-25lbs, or double the weight. The liquid is effective because it not only adds weight, but acts as a constraining layer. It prevents the panel from flexing and moving, much like adding a layer of fiberglass would.
Elemental Designs
Performance.Mobile.Audio.
alexl@edesignaudio.com
Warehouse Manager
and the fact that someone said "b-quiet is cheaper, lighter and better" makes me giggle. I would love to hear the explanation as to how a lighter mass loading material is also a superior one.
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
KevinP (Stabby McShankyou) wrote:not funny... i just can't find that funny... not with 2 copies of the Candyland board game on your shelf.
