i'm going to start off with all the electrical stuff i have in my car

a 1000watt 4 channel amp for my speakers
a 300watt mono amp for my sub
underglow
various other electronics in the car...


this summer i am planing on putting in 2 type-r subs at 500watts a piece...



ok

so thats that


right now my car has some electrical problem...not sure exactly what it is...but there is a problem for sure....i'm guessing its eather the alternator, or the battery...

tonight i'm going to head over to autozone and have them test my car out and see what the problem is....

if it is just the battery i was going to get a optima red 75-25 ($155)..

if it is just the alternator i was going to get a Gold-Duralast alternator with 105amps ($145)...

if its both, i dont have enough money for both the battery and alternator, so i was just going to get the same alternator as above, but get a Gold-Duralast battery for ($75)..

what do you guys think of this....i have $285 in pocket right now...and thats all i'll have for a while...


do you guys have any opinions on these products...



Gold-Duralast / Alternator
for a 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier

About this product:
Part Number: DLG1643-15-2
Weight: 12.25 lbs.
Warranty: LLT
Note: 105 Amp
Designed for maximum durability 100 % new
Pricing:
Unit Price: $132.99
*Core Value: $10.00
Total Price: $142.99

Gold-Duralast / Battery
for a 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier

About this product:
Part Number: 75-DLG
Weight: 32.9 lbs.
Warranty: 8 YR
Note: *** 720 cold cranking Amps (900 cranking Amps) *** -> 3 year free replacement <-
Pricing:
Unit Price: $69.99
*Core Value: $5.00
Total Price: $74.99

Optima Battery / Battery
for a 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier


About this product:
Part Number: 75-25
Weight: 33.1 lbs.
Warranty: 7 YR
Note: *** 720 cold cranking Amps (910 cranking Amps) *** -> 3 Year free replacement <-
Pricing:
Unit Price: $149.99
*Core Value: $5.00
Total Price: $154.99


and thats the info from autozone.....so....comments seguestions....

i would like to get this taken care of today


thanks again guys!!!

Think you shouldnt by anything from Autozone as their parts suck


- 2004 Cavalier - 124k, owned since new

is there a difference then getting them at advance auto parts?....cuz the AAP near me doesnt have their battery/alternator/starter tester working...so im going to have to head to autozone for that, and i dont know if my car is going to start going to auto zone, and then to AAP

dude save your money do it right the first time. buy one and then save til you can get both. i understand if you are in a pinch but if you can work it just do it the way you intend to right off the bat.

my question to you is why the hell are you drawing so much power with those big amps? im sure they are a little overkill.



1997 RedR - ZedR

its not really overkill...

the sub i have is 300rms and 600 peak...and the amp is 300 peak...

and the 4 channel amp for my speakers isnt really overkill...the rms and peak powers match my speakers pretty well...

the amp is 111rms to each channel and my speakers are just a little below that, not quite sure off the top of my head...



and i have to see what is wrong first....i'm not sure its even the battery and the alternator, or one of them....but i'm just asking in case it is, so i can buy what i need.

thanks again guys

You can buy my 200A iraggi alt if you want. 220 shipped.

whitegoose( RedR-ZedR) wrote:my question to you is why the hell are you drawing so much power with those big amps? im sure they are a little overkill.

1000 watts and 300 watts arent really that much, in my opinion...... my amp is 1600 watt and subs are 1800 watts a piece and im running them straight off of the battery ( no power cap) and it really doesn't draw that much power however the headlights do dim a little if im just sitting there. and what kind of electrical problem is it like whats gone wrong?



click sig for my car audio videos

the problem is basically, my car isn't starting everytime...when i charge the battery, it will start right away, and then slowly have problems starting....also, something is draining the battery, or something....

i charged the battery all the way up, and then unpluged the charger from the battery and just let it sit for a day, the next day i came back, and the battery was totally drained....i thought maybe it is the sound system, so i pulled the fuse, and recharged, and let it sit again, and it still drained over night.....


last time i drove it after a full charge, the first time it started fine, the second time it had a bit of trouble, and the third time, it refused to start, and after i let it sit for 20min, it started, and i havent used it since..


thanks again guys

Shiba wrote:

i charged the battery all the way up, and then unpluged the charger from the battery and just let it sit for a day, the next day i came back, and the battery was totally drained....

Check your wiring for a current draw when shut off. Something is drawing when it shouldn't. It doesn't get much more basic than that...

ok...lil news update..

i took my batteries to get checked out, both came up as bad....so i baught a optima red top...i've wanted to get one for a while, so its not that big of a deal...


got home installed it...and it still didnt work....

i'm convinced its a bigger problem, because some of the lights were flashing in the instrument cluster, i dont really remember.....but i was making a video to show you guys, and then it started, and after 2 seconds, just shut off...and every time since then it didnt do the same thing....


so i had it towed to tires plus, and they are going to figure out whats wrong with it, and call me back.....

wish my car luck guys, i dont really wanna spend alot of money on it...


thanks again for all your input!!

I had some major problems with my car when I had a shop install the stereo. There were relays and what not getting fried. The windheild wiper motor fried, the wires to the ac compressor got too hot and melted causing a short, and I was going through batteries (several stock batteries and 2 Rockford Deep cycles) like crazy, probably 1 every three months. I would jump the car, run it hard around the block a few times to charge the battery, and ten miuntes later I would have to jump the car to get it to start again.

As soon as I went with a yellow top, and a high output alternator (only 160amps is what I have at the time), upgraded to larger wires, the problems ceased. It has now been well over a year and no problems at all. The lights still dim when the stereo hits hard when the car is at idle though. The large stereos drain the battery and ruin the cells so that they do not hold a charge. The alternator chrges the battery (duh) and if the battery is draining too fast for the alternator to keep it full then problems occur.

I was told by several places that there is too much of a strain on the factory ecu and components when a large aftermarket stereo is installed. I guess the stereo draws the power away from these parts. What everyone else is saying... Do it right the first time, spend the money. Customizing a car cannot be done cheaply. The stereo components are not cheap, so neither should the charging system be cheap.


I am only giving this advice because I had been through many of the same situations that you are having. Do it right and get a new chraging system, High output alternator, deep cycle battery, possibly asecond battery and/or a 2 farad or larger capacitor, and a volt meter to monitor your voltage drain (which may come on a digital capacitor). Hope this helps you out. I know how frustrating it is.