like the title states I have a choice of going with a orion 2500d or the jl 1000/1, can anyone help me decide on what is better, pros and cons, I dont know much bout the 2500d
orion2.5x the power rated realistically will do more power
can run down to .5 ohm daily.
bulletproof
but dont i need to upgrade the alternator HUGE!!, plus the orion takes double power and ground?
really i was told it draws 300 amps
It says it the manual it does not have a fuse. which i thought was weird. but i would guess it pulls between 150-190 amps. The 1200d has a 120amp fuse rating (40x3) so i would guess double power pull.
but i found the owners manual if you want to take a look:
MANUAL
no fuse? well thats kinda scary isnt it?
We stopped carrying Orion, the amps and Subs came back WAY TOO often. Same goes for the Viper Amps (same thing)
You need to ask yourself these questions, How much power do you need? Do you want Music or just loud noise? Do you want it to last? Does it really matter that a amp can put out X amount of power if it is Dirty power? Is the amp Regulated? Meaning your 2,500watts at 14.4 volt on a sunny beatiful day in wonderland, how much actual clean power will it produce under a load and only having 11.5-13volts like most do in the real world. Do you want quality? Ask yourself those questions, do some research and you'll have your answer.
You can get a Orion 2500D on eBay for $300, so that should tell you something. 2,500 watts divided by $300 = $0.12 per watt of power.
soooo your sayin dont lol
I don't wanna say that on here, I'll get flamed for sayin it and owning JL Audio.
But it is all I could afford at the time.
I've had great results with the Orion 2400D
My old Precision Power PowerClass amps, WOW! $789.99 for a PC2150
specs were
150x2@4ohms
300x2@2ohms
600x1@4ohms
WHAT A BEAUTIFUL SOUNDING AMP!
$789.99 divided by 600watts = $1.30 per watt, so I guess you get what you pay for.
And the guy who designed the PowerClass amps in Arizona, well he is the same who designed the Slash series amps for JL AUDIO in Arizona.
the orion is a vary good amp they can handle 1/2 ohm and lower and can put out around 3000-3500 watt's. most bigger amps don't have a fuse you put an inline fuse by the amp. the reason they cost 300 on ebay is because they are used and they have a new line out. i read something when they came out with the hcca-5000 that it is a 2500D but in a new case.
i had a viper 2500D and i loved it but i had to many volts on the rca's and it went up in smoke. i talked to kb audio (they fix blown amps) and they said thats a problem they had with alot of them and other then that they are great amps.
at full open tilt the orion will pull 290 amps currently my high output alt is out and the stocker is in with 2 orions. and it does ok. I have a second battery though. it has dual power and ground. runa distrobution block as far as a fuse you run an external fuse holder. I would take the bigger power any day.
james those powerclass amps were awesome and were so expensive due to the different technology used. The Class D technology makes things much cheaper while provided almost equal sound quality. I wish i could have found some orions on ebay for 300 though.
I own four orions. (anyone want to call my bluff) And have never had a problem. ran them to so low a voltage my car shut off. Fired right back up. .5 ohm took it. sent it into thermal protect in the summer. and they keep ticking. Not to mention the fact that they make about 3500 at .5 ohms and it is pretty easy for my choice
I use my amps for extended periods of time, not just for Burping at dbDrags. With that being said, what would you need 3,500watts of power for? Listening purposes?
James (ROLN19S) (JuicyJ) wrote:I use my amps for extended periods of time, not just for Burping at dbDrags. With that being said, what would you need 3,500watts of power for? Listening purposes?
I've been running my orion 2500 for two years for "listening purposes".
I don't compete, and i don't burp my car.
As for which amp you should choose, it depends on your power needs. If you only need 1,000 watts to run whatever setup you have, then don't get the 2500.
On the other hand, if you are looking for 2,000+ watts, the JL won't give you that. These two amps really aren't even comparable, I can't think of many reasons why you would be choosing between the two.
And james, power is cheap these days. back in the day, paying a dollar or more per watt was the norm. But now-a-days power is cheap to make, and cheap to buy. Just because you pay 10 cents more per watt, doesn't make any amplifier better then the next. (that's like trying to compare thd ratings on the box, lol)
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ok sorry i havent mentioned this yet but im planning on putting a Fi 18" btl sub in a wall in my cav and need a amp to run it, but, i already own the jl 1000/1, but someone wants to trade me their orio 2500d for it, so my question now is which amp do i use?
megatron wrote:ok sorry i havent mentioned this yet but im planning on putting a Fi 18" btl sub in a wall in my cav and need a amp to run it, but, i already own the jl 1000/1, but someone wants to trade me their orio 2500d for it, so my question now is which amp do i use?
you will want to run the 2500....hell i'd run two of them to that BTL, but that's me, lol.
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thank you for your input I just may trade my jl then
I've had great results with the JL product line, especially the 1000/1.
Sam
3,500 is a sexy number. That's why.
wysiwyg wrote:i would say they bang, they don't really pound so much. but if
you want to bump, then they will bump and hit real hard and a lot good. 
LOL
megatron wrote:thank you for your input I just may trade my jl then
Your btl will thank you for that
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Offical dealer for the following-
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