Well, I was trying to install a 2-way starter/alarm, and something bad happened. The wiring all seemed to be good, but when I stepped on the brake during programming the unit, the brake lights stayed on and now they won't shut off. The low fuel lamp and the padlock (anti-theft) lights stay on, and the odometer reads 'error'. I have tried both keys, and it doesn't make a difference.

I have disconnected all of the wiring for the starter/alarm, but the problem remains. The brake lights are still on, and the car won't start.

Is there some way I can reset it? What the heck happened here?

Keep the key turned on for 10 minutes - it'll turn the passlock disable off. Then try to re-do the immoblizer bypass.

I have kept the key turned on for more than 10 minutes, and it makes no difference. I have even tried my spare key as well. The padlock and service lights are still on, and the car turns over but will not fire. It isn't getting any gas at all.

I have disconnected the alarm/starter, so it is back to stock settings, and it still won't work. I have disconnected the battery for 10 minutes as well, to no avail. My brake lights are still on, the padlock and service lights are on steady, the odometer says error.

Looks like I'll be taking a bus to work tomorrow morning.

What year car?
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FAQ in library wrote:96-99 J-car

1. Attempt to start the vehicle, then leave the ignition ON. The THEFT SYSTEM light telltale will flash for 10 minutes.

2. When the THEFT SYSTEM telltale stops flashing, start the vehicle. Once the vehicle is running, the password is learned.

00-05 J-car

1. Turn ON the igniton, with the engine OFF.

2. Attempt to start the engine, then release the key to ON (vehicle will not start).

3. Observe the SECURITY telltale, it will be flashing. After approximately 10 minutes the telltale will turn OFF.

4. Turn OFF the ignition, and wait 5 seconds.

5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 two more times for a total of 3 cycles/30 minutes. The vehicle is now ready to relearn the PASSlock Sensor Data Code and/or passwords, on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK.

IMPORTANT: The vehicle learns the PASSlock Sensor Data Code and/or password on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. You MUST turn the ignition OFF before attempting to start the vehicle.

6. Start the engine. The vehicle has now learned the PASSlock Sensor Data Code and/or password.

7. With a scan tool, clear any DTCs if needed. History DTCs will clear themselves after 100 ignition cycles.

-Seth

It is an 03 Z24.

I am trying the above-noted three cycle procedure, but I really don't think it is going to work. My anti-theft is not flashing, it is a constant light. Even when cranking the engine, it stays on. My service light is on, and my low fuel light is on. Sometimes after cranking the engine my odometer changes from numbers to 'error'.

Looking around at some other things, I did have my instrument cluster disconnected so that I could run the led up to the dash, and I tried to start the car with the instrument cluster not installed. What kind of problems could this have caused? Is the BCM inside the instrument cluster? Is there a way to set the BCM?

Ya, I bet that procedure will work for you. Whenever I've done mine, the light wasn't flashing either.

Also, I dont know about the cluster thing. I do know that in a 96-99, the bcm is in the cluster so idk if it would cause a problem in an 03. This time though, do make sure you try it with the cluster plugged in just to eliminate it being that.

-Seth

Nope. did not work. Same thing. Padlock light, Service light, and error on the odometer.

With the brake lights still being on, I suspect that there is something more going on. Maybe the codes need to be reset, or something? I have tried disconnecting the battery already and that didn't do anything either.

Looks like I will have to tow it to a stealership.

I think you need to check your connections again.
I think somehow you got your connections crossed when you put everything back to stock.
I can't think of any reason why your brake lights would be on unless you hooked up a different wire to right wire. Like if somehow you hooked up the passlock wire to the brake wire or something, idk.

-Seth

argh. man, I cannot tell you how many times I have gone back over the wiring connections. Over and over and over again, but just for you, I went over them one more time (and because that damn brake light problem just didn't make sense).

Uncovering the plastic shield around the brake pedal shows that the switch was loose in the bracket at the top of the pedal (it slides in and turns to lock), so that solved the brake light problem. I should have seen that hours ago, but the switch didn't feel loose, and I didn't dig past the cover.

I cut back a few more inches of loom to expose the wiring harnesses more and really opening things up helped a lot, too. Inside I found a pink and white wire that was cut, and after a bunch of digging, I found the other end of it and spliced a patch in.

BINGO!

Right away the tone sounded different and my gas gauge shot to full. I knew it was going to be good this time, and although it had to turn over a few times (just to scare me?), it fired up.

So... Two days worth of work, I'm tired, cranky, and sore, and still don't have a remote starter.... But at least I can get myself to work tomorrow.

Thanks a bunch for your help! Maybe I'll take another shot at it next weekend.

Yahtzee!!!


Don't worry I did the same thing. Tried installing it and went to go start the car and nothing. I had to go to school in the morning so I ripped it all out and it still wouldn't work. I couldn't get it to work for another day and found out that my car wouldn't start because the negative battery cable was too corroded. I was pissed. Installed it all over again and it worked fine, lol.

Good luck.

-Seth