those amps are gonna roast!
and you should NEVER have your volume past 3/4 on a headunit
it WILL distort the signal due to clipping
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those amps are gonna roast!
Nope....plenty, and i mean plenty of room for them to breath. This is where most jeepers put there amps in the WJ.
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and you should NEVER have your volume past 3/4 on a headunit
it WILL distort the signal due to clipping
Care to explain. it sounds crystal clear to me. But im always up to learn something new. Thanks
Does the voltage on that amp say 11.9?? lol
RE Audio
yeah....and? Its not like its a setting
I think what lash was getting at is that 11.9 volts is pretty low, something isn't running right on the car
and the clipping issue is really dependent on the gain setting of the amplifer. if the gain is set low, the signal will stay within the amplifiers specifications and not clip, if the gain is set too high, the inpus signal may go outside the amps parameters and clip. but basically yeah, if your headunit volume is too high, most likely you need to reduce the gain setting on the amp...or turn down the volume
You'll never touch God's hand
You'll never taste God's breath
Because you'll never see the second coming
Life's too short to be focused on insanity
I've seen the ways of God
I'll take the devil any day
Hail Satan
(slayer, skeleton christ, 2006)
Lookin good! I am possibly gonna be getting a system in the near future.
dirty elf wrote:
and you should NEVER have your volume past 3/4 on a headunit
it WILL distort the signal due to clipping
Why would you buy something that you can't turn all the way up? That makes ABSOLUTELY no sense at all. The perfect system is considered to be MAX volume and a clear signal, not 3/4 max. Clipping is the signal that comes from either the head unit (or amp, sometimes) that is too much for the speakers to handle, causing a sine wave to become pure DC.
DC in a speaker = distortion = death to speakers.
Rosario---have fun!
Sam
Ban low-performance cars, not high-performance ones.
mikec2003 wrote:I think what lash was getting at is that 11.9 volts is pretty low, something isn't running right on the car
and the clipping issue is really dependent on the gain setting of the amplifer. if the gain is set low, the signal will stay within the amplifiers specifications and not clip, if the gain is set too high, the inpus signal may go outside the amps parameters and clip. but basically yeah, if your headunit volume is too high, most likely you need to reduce the gain setting on the amp...or turn down the volume
Thanks for the explanation. Right now i belive the gain is set low but im not sure because it sounds so good with the default amp settings. Its all digital.
It sound perfect at full volume though. What happens when it clips?
Well i took that picture with the engine off....so i would guess, that it wouldnt be at full power with the system playing
Check my sticky for setting your gains on the sub amp and your highs amp - for the highs, play a test tone to the lowest frequency that it'll play and set your gains on that. I don't wanna see fires or you posting two weeks from now saying your subs or speakers quit working.
Sam wrote:Lookin good! I am possibly gonna be getting a system in the near future.
dirty elf wrote:
and you should NEVER have your volume past 3/4 on a headunit
it WILL distort the signal due to clipping
Why would you buy something that you can't turn all the way up? That makes ABSOLUTELY no sense at all. The perfect system is considered to be MAX volume and a clear signal, not 3/4 max. Clipping is the signal that comes from either the head unit (or amp, sometimes) that is too much for the speakers to handle, causing a sine wave to become pure DC.
DC in a speaker = distortion = death to speakers.
Rosario---have fun!
Sam
both of those statements are somewhat false. 3/4 volume is generally the setting for headunits because most headunits will start to distort past that point. but on some higher end head units you can get cloers to max power before distortion sets in. the perfect system is not considered to be one that can hit max volume on the headunit. the perfect system is going to be the one that sounds the best to the listener.
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nah man wonderful setup, looks good i got my system installed today as well
sine wave=
/\ /\
/ \ / \
/ \/ \
clipping =
------ ------
/ \ /
/ \/
basically, the signal is so strong that the amp cannot amplify it correctly, so it clips, or sends the DC signal into the speakers. This is bad news for the speakers. Basicially, its the farting a speaker does, I'm sure you've heard it before.
Sam
Ban low-performance cars, not high-performance ones.
13.4V on both amps with the car running.
I like one that can be loud and sound good. Mine, set at full volume sounds crystal clear and very crisp.
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Check my sticky for setting your gains on the sub amp and your highs amp - for the highs, play a test tone to the lowest frequency that it'll play and set your gains on that. I don't wanna see fires or you posting two weeks from now saying your subs or speakers quit working.
I have a zillion test tones, however, like i said, default settings are good for now. I am going to take it to the professionals and have them set everything up and measure SLP for me.
What electrical upgrades do you have?
You're pushing somewhere between 1000-1400 watts.
RE Audio
None, im planning on the big 3 next weekend as well as optima battery....why, what is wrong with my system? what should my amps be drawing?
Looks pretty good. Definitely get on those electrical upgrades.
Is that 13.4V (car running) with your stereo at full volume? With the stereo at low volume, you should be over 14V with the car running. I'm with the others - 11.9V with the car off is a bit low, as is the 13.4V with the car running. It could be that those voltmeters are off, but I'd look into that if I were you.
The 50-50-90 rule: Anytime you have a 50-50 chance of getting something right, there's a 90% probability you'll get it wrong.
I assume you have each MRD-M1005's hooked up to each Sub...??
If so, hows it sound???
I'm debating if I want to do 2 type-r's and 1 mrd-m1005, 2 mrd-m605's, or 2 mrd-m1005's
-Seth
wizkiddrummer wrote:I assume you have each MRD-M1005's hooked up to each Sub...??
If so, hows it sound???
I'm debating if I want to do 2 type-r's and 1 mrd-m1005, 2 mrd-m605's, or 2 mrd-m1005's
-Seth
No i have a 1005 Powering Both subs. I almost did one for both subs, but i wanted my speakers powered by an amp and i only had room for two. If you go back up to the pictures you can see one is a 4 channel V12.
If you want my advice, the 1005 is plenty power. The subs hit rediculously hard. I cant see out my mirrors because they move so much and the bass isnt even turned up. It is kinda cool at night, because its like a mini light show in your mirrors...lol...
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Looks pretty good. Definitely get on those electrical upgrades.
Is that 13.4V (car running) with your stereo at full volume? With the stereo at low volume, you should be over 14V with the car running. I'm with the others - 11.9V with the car off is a bit low, as is the 13.4V with the car running. It could be that those voltmeters are off, but I'd look into that if I were you.
Yeah thats with the system up quite loud. Im sorry but why is 11.9 low with the car off. I would think my Battery was drained quite a bit from playing with the car just on acc.
Ok I just ran out to pick up the sunday paper and i checked. With the volume turned down, They both fluctuate between 13.8 and 13.9 Is that ok?
Also with everything cranked, i have no dimming at all. Thats good right?
yeah thats good...hell i only got one 10" solobaric on a 600 watt amp and mine dims at idle and with the car off, and thats with an optima battery...guess i should do the big 3 sometime
You'll never touch God's hand
You'll never taste God's breath
Because you'll never see the second coming
Life's too short to be focused on insanity
I've seen the ways of God
I'll take the devil any day
Hail Satan
(slayer, skeleton christ, 2006)
The reason I said that it might be low is that most electrical systems usually pump out 14.3-14.6V with the engine running. 13.8-13.9V is probably fine. My guess would be that the voltmeters on your amps aren't quite accurate.
No dimming with the stereo cranked is definitely a good thing. You may not need a HO alt or a huge battery if you're not getting any dimming, but definitely do a BIG 3 upgrade (it's cheap and can only help your car's electrical).
Looks good!
The 50-50-90 rule: Anytime you have a 50-50 chance of getting something right, there's a 90% probability you'll get it wrong.
Rosario wrote:wizkiddrummer wrote:I assume you have each MRD-M1005's hooked up to each Sub...??
If so, hows it sound???
I'm debating if I want to do 2 type-r's and 1 mrd-m1005, 2 mrd-m605's, or 2 mrd-m1005's
-Seth
No i have a 1005 Powering Both subs. I almost did one for both subs, but i wanted my speakers powered by an amp and i only had room for two. If you go back up to the pictures you can see one is a 4 channel V12.
If you want my advice, the 1005 is plenty power. The subs hit rediculously hard. I cant see out my mirrors because they move so much and the bass isnt even turned up. It is kinda cool at night, because its like a mini light show in your mirrors...lol...
O, ok, i didn't see that 345 in there.
-Seth
