I have a Sony Xplod XM-1652Z pushing my 12' Kicker L7 Solobaric in slot-ported box.
The problem Im having is, evrytime I turn up the volume, the fuses on the amp blow. It was working fine untill a cpl of days ago. The amp has two 30 amp fuses on it and I have an in-line fuse coming from the battery. I have NO clue why the fuses keep blowing. The system used to dim my lights pretty bad, so I went and purchased a 1.0 Farad capacitor. It worked fine for a while but then my ground wire started to get hot and melt the plastic around itself. Im pretty good at wiring systems but this one has me at a stand still. I need as much help as possible and soon cause I need my ride up and running tomorrow for work. My sub is running at a 4 ohm load( dual 2 ohm voice coils). The amp specs state that Maxium output is 380W x 2 (at4ohms) and 1000w (BTL at 4 ohms) Im running the amp in BTL (which is a fancy word for bridge).
ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT!!!
If more info is needed please let me know.
BTW I am running a stock alt and reg battery ( just in case that matters) and my headunit is a Sony Xplod 8805X.
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Anyone????????????????????//
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Today 12:29 PM
Today 12:32 PM
Anyone????????????????????//
dude this isnt chat. someone will get your answer be patient
I Drank 750 Bottles Of Mountain Dew For A XBOX 360.... AND ALL I GOT WAS THIS STUPID HAT.
ANYONE????????????
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Hey guys Im asking for help.......thats all if ya cant help dont mess up my thread.
Im not a newb....save that mess for them.
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1st problem :
Sony Xplod
2nd problem:
380 max
your never going to be able to run the max on an amp without blowing it especially with a 12 solo baric
you need a bigger amp plain and simple. 12 solo's rms at 400 watts your not even giving them the power they need.
thats the reason your ground started melting cause your solo was trying to pull more power than your amp could power.
and heres another hint caps dont do much, your rides not out of comission just because you dont have a system.
I Drank 750 Bottles Of Mountain Dew For A XBOX 360.... AND ALL I GOT WAS THIS STUPID HAT.
I understand what ur saying, but the amp runs 1000w BTL at 4 ohms and that is the way the sub is wired. Does it make a difference? If not, what is a good amp to get to solve my probs without breaking the bank?
I would comment on the caps and "out of comission" thing but lifes too short. LOL
Thanks for the help.
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ive got 2 12 inch solo l7's in my trunk running off a hifonics amp i believe its the brutus series. but anyway they are wires up to a 1 ohm load at 1200 watts. and ive not had a problem yet... knock on wood.
I Drank 750 Bottles Of Mountain Dew For A XBOX 360.... AND ALL I GOT WAS THIS STUPID HAT.
Basically, Sony amps are seriously overrated. What's probably going on, is the amp is straining to push that sub. It overheats, and pops the fuses. I'd recommend a Hifonics amp, I personally like the TX1505D (1500RMS at 1Ohm, $200).
# 1500 Watt Class-D Monoblock Amplifier
# 500 watts x 1 chan. @ 4 ohms
# 1000 watts x 1 chan. @ 2 ohms
# 1500 watts x 1 chan. @ 1 ohm
# MOSFET Outputs
# Complementary High-Speed MOSFET Output Devices
# MOSFET EXVP (Exponential Vari-Power Supply)
# SPC Twin Turbo Torroids with Simpatico Coil Design
# Silver RCA Connectors
# Balanced Line Input with Optional Balanced Line Driver
# Fully Adjustable Accu-Cross Crossover:
# Low-Pass Filter (35 - 250 Hz)
# Subsonic Filter: (15 - 35 Hz, 24 dB/Oct)
# Phase Adjustment: 0° - 180°
# 0 - 18 dB Bass Boost @ 45 Hz
# Adjustable Input Gain Level: 0.2V - 9V
# Power and Protection LEDs
# 1 Pair of RCA Outputs
Is this one good enough to for a 12' L7?
Clicky
(watts peak/RMS) : 1500/750
^^^^specs for 12' L7
Would the 1000w at 1ohm on the amp blow the L7?
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Pretty nice, but there's nothing wrong with going a little over the RMS.
I don't think there's a way to wire 1 Sub down to 1Ohm... someone correct me if I'm wrong. I believe the 1000RMS might do some damage unless the bass boost was turned down.
the Kicker L7 Solobaric 2ohm DVC can be wired in parallel to a 1ohm sub( thats what i have) LOL dont want to blow it but I might not if i keep the bass on the headunit down and the amp half way instead of full power. I hope anyways idk.
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i just looked it up.. wiring like this would put it at 1 ohm with 2 ohm coils.
Maybe I missunderstand what you guys are saying, but a subwoofer doesn't pull power from the amp. The amp supplies power and the coil absorbs power from the voltage being passed through it. You could a 1000watt sub on a 25watt amp, as long as the ohms and gains are matches and set right it will power it for years(just not very loud).
The main problem you have here is: (a) that amp is a POS, plain and simple, (b) I bet your gains are set for maximum clippage.
After reading your last post that says you had the amp at full power further compels be to believe that the amp blowing is user error, not the amp. Get some quality equipment and have it installed by someone who knows what they are doing.
What size are your power and ground wires? They should be the same size. It sounds like your ground wire is too small, which would cause it to melt the insulation when it tries to pass more current than it can handle.
The bass on your headunit should always be set at zero. Turning it up at the headunit can easily cause distortion going to the amp. Too much distortion = dead solobaric.
The gain is NOT a "power" or volume knob. If your gain is turned up too high that will cause problems for you. Not having your gain set right is another easy way to feed your sub distortion.
Does the amp blow it's fuses right away? It could simply be getting too hot. Check your wiring to make sure there isn't any kind of short anywhere also.
-Chris
My guess is that you've got the gain cranked to all hell.
Sandmanx : thanks for the help but unless u went to college on amp wiring, i suggest u take ur "user error" stuff to the newb section. BTW my gains arent set for maxium.
I said............
"the Kicker L7 Solobaric 2ohm DVC can be wired in parallel to a 1ohm sub( thats what i have) LOL dont want to blow it but I might not if i keep the bass on the headunit down and the amp half way instead of full power. I hope anyways idk"
never said anything about the gains being on maxium.
Besse : My wires are all the same gauge. The fuses didnt start blowing untill today when I unhooked the cap. I re-ran the wires and came up with one conclusion.......time for a BETTER amp. LOL Thanks for the input.
LOL I think I have learned my lesson on Sony Xplod amps
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Only one problem, that amp isn't one ohm stable. Infact if you have the channels bridged, and are running a 1 ohm load to a 4ohm stable, no wonder it is toasting. And btw either learn to elaborate on what you mean by "running the amp at full power". I stand by my user error conclusion.
Lash wrote:My guess is that you've got the gain cranked to all hell.
yea, the gain knob is not a volume control
that amp is overrated
dont go cheap get a quality amp go hifonics
I Drank 750 Bottles Of Mountain Dew For A XBOX 360.... AND ALL I GOT WAS THIS STUPID HAT.
sandmanx: (1) take time and fill out ur registry before u try and sound like an expert.
(2) If you knew anything about 2ohm DVC then you would know that 2ohm DVC wired in a series makes a 4ohm sub. Parallel makes it a 1 ohm sub. I didnt say anywhere on this post that i had my sub wired to 1 ohm. Yet again your young age got the best of you. If you read my first post then you would know the way i wired my sub. Its funny how everyone knew but you ..hmmmmm.... interesting. So that patented "user error" stills belongs elsewhere.
Have a great day!
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Drake what Hifonics do u have?
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sonys just suck. dont bridge and you should be good to go.
____________________
1991 Honda CRX si mini me swapped
You had 4 posts in the first 22 minutes, which shows me that you have no patience. If you want your stereo to work properly and want the experts here (wysiwyg, sndsgood etc) to help, I urge you to take a deep breath and relax. Those here who have been around car audio for quite some time will help when they have time, but you're impatience does not help your cause.
I'm with Besse on this one. There is something seriously wrong with either the size of your power and ground wire, or you're shorting out something, or your amp is defective. Whatever the case may be, don't turn the damn thing on until you either find the problem or take your car/amp in and get someone who knows what their doing to test it. It looks like you've put alot of time and money into your car, and having it burn up because of the wrong "quick fix" just because you want road-tunes for the trip to work would truly suck.
There are a few things that would certainly help us to help you out. If I can't help you out, at least the pros can read your answers. First off - what gauge are your power and ground wires? Where are you grounded to, and how long is the ground? .
When did your problems first start happening (by that I mean was there a specific event that possibly coincided with your problems)? My brother's PG XS300 had the circuit board crack just by hitting a road crater. Crap happens.
How exactly did you set your gains?
Do things work fine while listening at low (read: NORMAL) volume? How loud does it have to be before the fuses pop? Do they pop instantly, or just above a certain volume?
Do you notice your amp getting hotter than usual?
It sounds like you've got the sub wired properly, which under any other circumstances should be fine. If I was you, I would unplug your amp entirely (in case it is defective - you don't want fires) and take it into a shop to have it checked out after you get off work. I would guess that it is the amp, but it might not be - get it checked to make sure.
The 50-50-90 rule: Anytime you have a 50-50 chance of getting something right, there's a 90% probability you'll get it wrong.
