Alright i've been looking for the like...quation for how to determine box tuning and i cant seem to find it...ive seen it before...but i want to know how i would go about figuring out the tuning of a box, because i have to design another one because i am getting a second sub and i want to make sure i do this right...so if anyone can tell me how to determine the tuning freq. or give me a link to a page that will tell me, that would be greatly apreciated
wysiwyg wrote:i would say they bang, they don't really pound so much. but if
you want to bump, then they will bump and hit real hard and a lot good. 
LOL
Fb denotes the frequency that the enclosure is tuned at.
Av denotes the cross-sectional area of the vent, measured in square inches. When using a round vent, Av is determined by using the formula {pi}radius^2. When using a square or rectangular shaped vent, Av is determined by the product of the vent's height and the vent's width.
Lv denotes the effective length of the vent, measured in inches. Do not confuse the physical length of the vent with Lv, as they are often times not the same due to end-correction factor.
Vb denotes the enclosure's net volume, measured in cubic inches. This is the internal useable airspace within the enclosure; the amount of airspace that the subwoofer can "feel" as useable. Net volume is calculated by determining vent displacement, driver displacement, bracing displacement, end-correction displacement, etc and subtracting these values from the enclosure's internal gross volume. (Remember, the airspace within the vent is NOT airspace that the subwoofer can "use". The vent must be thought of as a solid object, and its entire volume must be subtracted in order to properly calculate net volume.)
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hoooleh...thanks man...i got some phat math to do lol
wysiwyg wrote:i would say they bang, they don't really pound so much. but if
you want to bump, then they will bump and hit real hard and a lot good.
LOL
alright i have one last problem...lets say your port bends...how do u get the lenth of the bend, since the distance changes with how far out you measure...like up on one side it would be .75 cuz of the mdf board...but on the other side it would be like ... 4.75... theres like a couple of U bend type things....if you understand wat im asking please help and if not i could send you a picture of the box i was trying to make
wysiwyg wrote:i would say they bang, they don't really pound so much. but if
you want to bump, then they will bump and hit real hard and a lot good.
LOL
example pic
Here’s how to do it (remember- down the middle of the port):
.75(baffle) + 12.75 + 1.75(corner) + .75(MDF) + 12.75 + 1.75(corner) + .75(MDF) +12.75 + 1.75(corner) + .75(MDF) + 8.875 + .875[end correction (half of 1.75)]
All of that come to 56.25” – The effective port length like the diagram states.
Why add 1.75” when turning the corner? Broken down, it is just half of 1.75 up and half of 1.75 over to stay in the middle of the vent. Half and half come back to 1.75”. Knowing this, after the first turn you have another port board of 12.75”, but it is part of the second turn. You know the turn is 1.75” so why not subtract that from the 12.75” board? Well if you subtract 1.75” from 12.75” you’ll just have to add it back up again. 12.75” – 1.75” = 11”. 11” is the length of second board without factoring in the corner. Factor in the corner and you’re back at 12.75”. Just keep it at 12.75” and you’re set.
Just keep reading over this section until it clicks. You’ll eventually get! For first timers there will be a whole lot of confusion, that’s how you learn. [Big Grin]
Also, you can see the physical length inside the box is 55.375” (56.25 - .875). You physically need 55.375” of MDF in the box to get the needed effective length of 56.25.
By knowing how corners inside the box affect the length, you can make your port wrap around inside the box. This will help for bracing and also makes it easier to reach your low tuning frequencies.
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alright i think i get it now...thanks a lot for your help...im really trying hard to learn this stuff
wysiwyg wrote:i would say they bang, they don't really pound so much. but if
you want to bump, then they will bump and hit real hard and a lot good.
LOL
so not to jack here but if there are no wraps, do you measure the port from front of port opening to halfway between end of port and back wall then add the distance from the midline of the port tube to the inside of the box edge of the inner port wall to get overall port length?
huh? ^ lol
Are you refering to an "L" shaped port?
wysiwyg wrote:example pic
I guess eD is good for something eh?
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Scout62 (Heartless Bastard) wrote:
I guess eD is good for something eh?
about the only thing
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bassbox 6.0 lite or pro! youll never have to ask a box question ever again. i have bass box 6 pro, and LOVE it. not to mention it comes in handy/necessary at work!
mecp certified installer#39272
andy czarnecki wrote:bassbox 6.0 lite or pro! youll never have to ask a box question ever again. i have bass box 6 pro, and LOVE it. not to mention it comes in handy/necessary at work!
bassbox won't calculate turns in a slot port. at least mine doesn't.
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Offical dealer for the following-
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PANASONIC
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