I'm thinking about getting rid of my 12" JL W3's (sealed box 1.25ft^3) for 4 RE8's in a ported box probably at around 200 watts each.
Would I better off sticking with the JL's? How would the 4 8's compare to the 2 12's?
check my profile, it should answer your question. Stick with JL, if you like sound as well as loudness.
Well i would say the oposite. RE has some of the best products out there. I would take the 4 8"s over 2 12w3s. It would be louder in the right box and the SQ would be amazeing. I currently am running a single 8" W1 but im gonna trade to the 8" RE. But thats must my opinion.
Jeremy
I didn't think RE's were for SQ. I'm just asking, not saying anything about them. I'm truely unsure.
schembo2000 wrote:I didn't think RE's were for SQ. I'm just asking, not saying anything about them. I'm truely unsure.
lol...they have pretty good sound quality
.
You're going to be losing surface area going from 2-12s to 4-8s, and likely low-bass extension unless you tune your 8s low. I really doubt that you're going to notice very much difference in SQ between the two (I hope I don't start something here - the argument over whether 8/10s sound better than 12/15s has been beaten to death). There's nothing wrong with RE (except that I can't find any dealers in Calgary), but the JL 12W3s are quite well known for going really loud and retaining excellent SQ even at high SPL levels.
I say keep the 12W3s and put that money into something else. Do you have the room to build a ported box for your W3s? The old W6s and W3s truly shine in ported enclosures tuned really low (26-30Hz). Port your 12s, tune it low, and you'll love them!
Chamillionaire wrote:
I'm being who I am, not what you want me to be...
I was actually just thinking about that today. I have plenty of room to port the 12's (extended cab's kick ass
)....but I'd probably go with a little bit biger amp then.
Decisions...
Go with the 4 8's
I had 2 P3 12 in the car, and the sound waves could not finish, It Sounded like Crap.
The box was smaller than the specs told me to build and I I could hear was Air.
I could not hear Boom at all Except for Everyone Else Outside the Car.
So I sold them and I'm going with 2 10's instead.
Our Cars Cannot take anything Bigger than Tens in order to Finish the Sound waves.
Go with the 4 8's
I had 2 P3 12 in the car, and the sound waves could not finish, It Sounded like Crap.
The box was smaller than the specs told me to build and I I could hear was Air.
I could not hear Boom at all Except for Everyone Else Outside the Car.
So I sold them and I'm going with 2 10's instead.
Our Cars Cannot take anything Bigger than Tens in order to Finish the Sound waves.
Sorry for the Double Post. My comp is Screwed up.
Nope...I think I'm gonna stick with the W3's and build a pretty good sized ported box tuned to around 32 hz and give them each about 150-200watts more than I'm running now. I've done alot of reading and supposedly these subs really begin to shine in a ported enclose.
Canadian Sunfire wrote:Go with the 4 8's
I had 2 P3 12 in the car, and the sound waves could not finish, It Sounded like Crap.
The box was smaller than the specs told me to build and I I could hear was Air.
I could not hear Boom at all Except for Everyone Else Outside the Car.
So I sold them and I'm going with 2 10's instead.
Our Cars Cannot take anything Bigger than Tens in order to Finish the Sound waves.
Sound waves could not finish???
You'll have to explain to me what you meant by "sound waves could not finish", because it makes no sense to me. Something must have been seriously wrong with your install, because I've heard 12, 15, and 18" subs sound amazing in the trunks of cavaliers.
Our cars can absolutely take subwoofers larger than 10s. I personally have an 18 inch Cerwin Vega Stroker in the trunk of my Cavalier, and it sounds pretty damn good (for an 18 that is). It's tuned pretty low for a stroker (33 Hz), but still hits 150db with tones. My best friend has put multiple 15s in his cavalier with no problems.
The biggest hurdles we Cav/SF guys have are the small size of our trunk openings and limited trunk volume (NB for us SPL guys). 15-inch subwoofers will fit without having to get creative, but 18s are difficult, due to the fact that our trunk opening is only 17 inches high. Since Lash's subwoofer box is going into an extended cab truck, and not a cavalier, he doesn't have to deal with any of the same space issues we have.
Keep the W3s and build a ported box for them. I had 2 - 12W6s in a 5cu ft (net) ported box tuned to 26Hz, running off a Mmats D100 (so ~250wrms a sub) and it was orgasmic. They played flat to 20Hz, the SQ was amazing, and they still hit in the low 140s. Your W3s will play louder than the W6s and are just as accurate.
The 50-50-90 rule: Anytime you have a 50-50 chance of getting something right, there's a 90% probability you'll get it wrong.
Quote:
Your W3s will play louder than the W6s and are just as accurate.
Thats seems to be the general consensus. I'm thinking 4 ft^3 tuned to around 30hz. Still gotta figure out dimensions and port size. Debating on slot or round port too.
Canadian Sunfire wrote:Go with the 4 8's
I had 2 P3 12 in the car, and the sound waves could not finish, It Sounded like Crap.
The box was smaller than the specs told me to build and I I could hear was Air.
I could not hear Boom at all Except for Everyone Else Outside the Car.
So I sold them and I'm going with 2 10's instead.
Our Cars Cannot take anything Bigger than Tens in order to Finish the Sound waves.
sounds like you had some installation issues as well as enclosure size issues, you can run 12's and 15's finein our cars
i'd stck with what you have i really dont think your going to gain anything by switching
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James (ROLN19S) (JuicyJ) wrote:I was saying go with 4 JL 8's
Check my profile.
LOL... If I could only afford them. I'm not paying almost $300 for 1 fawking 8" sub.
I'm in the process of building a box 3.5ft^3 slot ported tuned to 30 hz.
