Hey guys,

Im wondering how to hook up two amps. I just bought the MTX 342 2 channel amp for my two 6x9's and two 6 1/2's from MTX that i just bought. I currently have the 502 d amp from mtx and theyre mx series sub. im just wondering how to hok both amps up to my battery and stuff thanks a lot!


"Boost tuning"....... have you had your 8 PSI today?

future name of the winter shop!!!

You have a choice: run two wires from your battery to each amp, or buy a distribution block. I'd recommend a fused dist block for the power and a non-fused one for the grounds. This way, you only need one wire from the battery into the car/trunk, and you will have more control over splicing to smaller wires

thanks alot man!!!! i forgot about those thingys


"Boost tuning"....... have you had your 8 PSI today?

future name of the winter shop!!!

they're like $10 at walmart. Thats the one I used for my 1000 total watt setup in my old cav. (400w 4-channel kenwood, 600 watt X-treme 2-channel amp).

save wire, relocate your batteries to your trunk :-)


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^^ I would if i knew how does anybody feel like telling me how to relocate my battery?


"Boost tuning"....... have you had your 8 PSI today?

future name of the winter shop!!!

You'll still eat up wire by moving the battery to the trunk. Just run a heavy gauge wire back and run a distro block.


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^^ yeah. or he could buy an additional battery and put that in the trunk, but that would take a lil bit more wiring to do (and probably a stronger alt) but I think that'd be a good thing as your lights shouldnt dim as much if at all.

I ran an 8 gauge wire to the trunk into a 4/8g fused dist block from walmart and ran both amps off of it. The cap ruined my entire setup... the bass dissapated whenever the car came to a stop, the RPM had to be at least 2000 before the sub amp would kick back in. Sorry about the off topic, but I really dont recommend buyin the caps from wally world... otherwise, their smaller accessories (battery terminals, distro blocks, and wiring) are decent unless you want hardcore brand-name stuff. (the 10g wire I use in my camry for the 1000 watt amp was in the schosche 225W MAX wiring kit )

stereo components...KENWOOD amps... FROM WALL MART, running an amp off 10 guage power wire...i think the best advice you have given in this thread is "dont do what i do"


On the other hand....you have other fingers.

i had lots of toys when i was young.slinky,etc.but once i found my penis,that was all she wrote

who said I got the kenwood from walmart? I got the kenwood from an authorized dealer here in town. The gauge doesnt have to be as big if it doesnt have to go as far. Remember my amp is mounted under the drivers seat, which was only like 4-6 feet of wire. 1000 watts runs perfectly on a 20A fuse, 10g wire doesnt burn, no fuses blow. I can actually show up my brothers 4000 watt stereo w/ 2 CV subs with my 1000 watt stereo and 2 10" Ultra Linear subs. best part is, I do it constantly.

Just stating what is options are. If it aint broken, dont fix it. A friend of mine doesnt even use a distribution block, he just ran two 12g wires spliced off a 4g for two amps, 4 12" Sony Explodes, and the only problem is the amps draw too much power for the 12g wire (thats what we think anyway because when the amps gains are turned a little bit up the subs vibrate randomly)

so dont be sad because my stereo setup was cheaper than yours

$20 for the wiring kit @ wally world
$180 for 1000w MA Audio amp and subs @ a garage sale
$150 for a now dead HU made by panasonic & purchased at canadian tire

a $350 stereo that makes the screws on my liscense plate come out... good no?

PS. We really need an edit button

Calvin Di Bartolo wrote: Remember my amp is mounted under the drivers seat, which was only like 4-6 feet of wire. 1000 watts runs perfectly on a 20A fuse, 10g wire doesnt burn

an actuall 1000 watts at 13.8 volts is 72 amps of current draw...there is no way that kenwood is pushing anywhere near 1000 watts through a 20 amp fuse.



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"$180 for 1000w MA Audio amp and subs @ a garage sale"

its not a kenwood. The kenwood I DID have was a 400 watt 4-channel in my cavalier. I ran it in a dual setup with an X-treme 600 watt amp, totalling 1000 watts. Kenwood was for the interior speakers, and the x-treme was the sub amp.

Sorry, I just realized I made it sound like the kenwood was running 1000 watts, the only kenwood I've ever had was 400 watts... it was great though. Brand new, and made out of something that was solid as a rock (literally, I had 200 lb people jumpin on it and it still ran like it just came outta the box)

And just to clarify, the 1000 watt amp I run in my camry is set to just below half gain. Still pounds really hard. I never max the gain anymore because thats partially what killed the first of the two X-treme 600 watt amps.

Calvin Di Bartolo wrote:who said I got the kenwood from walmart? I got the kenwood from an authorized dealer here in town. The gauge doesnt have to be as big if it doesnt have to go as far. Remember my amp is mounted under the drivers seat, which was only like 4-6 feet of wire. 1000 watts runs perfectly on a 20A fuse, 10g wire doesnt burn, no fuses blow. I can actually show up my brothers 4000 watt stereo w/ 2 CV subs with my 1000 watt stereo and 2 10" Ultra Linear subs. best part is, I do it constantly.

Just stating what is options are. If it aint broken, dont fix it. A friend of mine doesnt even use a distribution block, he just ran two 12g wires spliced off a 4g for two amps, 4 12" Sony Explodes, and the only problem is the amps draw too much power for the 12g wire (thats what we think anyway because when the amps gains are turned a little bit up the subs vibrate randomly)

Nothing wrong with saving money, but when it comes to electronics ultra-cheap isn't necessarily a good thing. For future reference, anything worth buying is rated using it's rms value. Peak wattage is really only useful for SPLers who are looking to squeeze every watt out of their system.
I'm curious about your brother's system. Having personally run Cerwin for the past 7 years (12" and 15" Vega series and both 15" and 18" Strokers), unless his subs are installed COMPLETELY wrong (like freeair or port-tuned to 200hz or his 4000watts is really only 25watts rms), or he's running 2-8s or 6.5s (or really low-end CV), there is no way in hell your ULs would even touch them for SPL (especially if you don't fry a 20amp fuse). My Vegas were exceptional at SQ (VERY low and really accurate) as well. When it comes to SQ anything's possible, but you aren't even in the same league when it comes to SPL (which I'm assuming you're referring to when you say "show up my brother"). Please correct me if I'm wrong, but something doesn't sound right here.




Free your mind - shoot your TV.

Well... They're a pair of Cerwin Vega 10" subs. Not sure what the power rating on them is, nor what kind they are (they were silver, and looked new), and they were in an alpine pre-fab box. Not sure what the dimensions were, it was perfectly square though. It being in a ford explorer probably doesnt help the SPL much either.

He had it cranked up so loud you could hear the voice through the window, yet you couldnt feel it outside, maybe its just well insulated, but it didnt sound very impressive.

As for me, yes cheaper isnt always better, such as my dead HU from canadian tire. But running a wal-mart brand 10g wire w/ 20 amp fuse on a 1000 watt amp that shakes the hell out of the car, I'd think that's pretty good (it feels like you got an 8 inch sub inside the front seats, no idea how it feels in the back).

Walmart isnt the best for stuff, its the best for cheap crap that will do until you can either get better stuff (which was what I was hoping for with the HU) or for stuff you wont push too hard. My HU got hot quite often, but thats because I've usually got it cranked up to volume 28 out of 40 for extended periods of time. (the only reason its dead is because of my mistake of touching the amps speaker wire to a speaker that was still connected to the HU... oops) But hey, the distrib blocks, wiring and other small stuff actually seems pretty good. Just NO CAPS! CAPS BAD!! lol... sorry

Those CV's that you described sound like the IT series ones. i almost bought a set of those but decided against it because if i wanted CV i would want the best (strokers from what i hear). BUT, putting together a stereo system (new everything) on a budget isnt too easy, so i went with audiobahn 12's with 700 RMS DVC's into a ported box.. lol. i am gonna look into all the new stuff when i go back to the states in december, as i am in japan. might get a deck out here though and buy an FM modulator..hehe. Anyone got any ideas on some kick ass subs for around 200-300 bucks each sub, and some decent amps????

im sorry but just splicing 12g wires into 4 and running 2 amps off it is stupid, Kenwood is complete crap, your not SAFELY running a 1000Watt amp off 10g, and your not running a 1000Watt amp off 20amp fuse, period, end of story, i happen to sell and install audio and have been around this crap my whole life dont talk town to me, your a tool


On the other hand....you have other fingers.

i had lots of toys when i was young.slinky,etc.but once i found my penis,that was all she wrote

^^^ I told my friend to use a distribution block, but hey, whatever works.
I told ya I could take pics of my 1000 watt amp running on a 20A fuse. Unfortunately, pics dont really do it very well because in between I could change the components, and its hard to tell if its even running. And if I'm such a tool, at least I'm sharper than you are.

you are sharper than me? yet your claiming that your amp is putting out 1000 Watts off your car electrical system with a 20 amp fuse that has already been proven wrong, wysiwyg even did all the math out for you. and your sharper than me saying that running 2 amps off of 12 guage wire spliced into a 4 guage wire.... im sorry sir, but im not normaly a jerk, check any of my posts on the org, im usualy nice, try to help where i can, and just dont start stupid internet fights, witch is NOT what im trying to do here.. but i will not talked down to by someone who A. obviously claims to know more than he actualy knows about this stuff and B. does not do this for a living as i actualy do. im trying to help, and your saying im wrong, and normaly i can debate things and accept that im wrong when i am, but im sorry... IM NOT!


On the other hand....you have other fingers.

i had lots of toys when i was young.slinky,etc.but once i found my penis,that was all she wrote

Calvin Di Bartolo wrote:
if I'm such a tool, at least I'm sharper than you are.

LOL! I'll have to remember that one!
In Calvin's defense, he told me in another post that the "1000 watts" was not an rms value, and that his gains were turned way down. I definitely don't approve of his wiring setup, either - it's an accident waiting to happen if he doesn't get it fixed right.

01cavZ24 wrote:Those CV's that you described sound like the IT series ones. i almost bought a set of those but decided against it because if i wanted CV i would want the best (strokers from what i hear). BUT, putting together a stereo system (new everything) on a budget isnt too easy, so i went with audiobahn 12's with 700 RMS DVC's into a ported box.. lol. i am gonna look into all the new stuff when i go back to the states in december, as i am in japan. might get a deck out here though and buy an FM modulator..hehe. Anyone got any ideas on some kick ass subs for around 200-300 bucks each sub, and some decent amps????

If you ever decide on CV, be warned that the strokers perform best in huge (bigger=better) ported enclosures, and to get the most out of them you will almost certainly lose your trunk. Also, you would be much better off going with a single 15" (or even 1-2 12s) than an 18" like I have (MUCH easier to design an enclosure for, and the enclosures don't have to quite as huge). I've seen a few used 15s go for <$200US on Ebay, which is pretty cheap for what you get (especially since it's pretty hard to fry them). Finding an cheap amplifier to make them really move will be the hard part. The Vega series are much more SQ-oriented (they go MUCH lower than my stroker, but don't compare in SPL), handle decent power, and don't need terribly large boxes to perform well. That's just my take on the Vegas and Strokers - there are many other great subs out there for $200-300 each (RE SXs?, Alpine Type-Rs, IDQs, Adire (Shivas, used Brahmas), ...well the list keeps going. Same thing for amps - it all depends on how much power you want and how much you want to spend.




Free your mind - shoot your TV.

Calvin Di Bartolo wrote:^^^ I told my friend to use a distribution block, but hey, whatever works.
I told ya I could take pics of my 1000 watt amp running on a 20A fuse. Unfortunately, pics dont really do it very well because in between I could change the components, and its hard to tell if its even running. And if I'm such a tool, at least I'm sharper than you are.

hmm..less then 20 amps of current draw. your getting about 200-250 watts or so. that is a CRAPPY 1000 watt amp!!!


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but wysiwyg, it SAYS 1000Watts so thats all that matters right? lol. sorta like sony's philosophy, "lets sell a '5000 watt' amp for 60 bucks..if it blows in a week and only puts out 100 watts, it still says 5000 watts, customer satisfied!"


On the other hand....you have other fingers.

i had lots of toys when i was young.slinky,etc.but once i found my penis,that was all she wrote