well some of u might remember my output or input on my Hifonics amp was acting funny on me and ive been with no subs for about a month now,well a buddy of mine was sellin a RF 1001.1BD for $220CDN so i had to grab that bitch up :lol: anyways,the manuel says i need a 100 amp fuse under teh hood but i can only find a 150 amp fuse locally,will this matter?also im runnin the amp with a 60 amp fuse until i can find a ANL fuse holder,am i loosing power like this?
and would anyone happen to have a birth sheet for this amp?i jsut wanna get a rough ideal of what they put out
FDP 62MM TB, FFP Performance Chip, FFP Underdrive Pully, WAI, Hi Flow Cat, 2.5" Catback, Functional Ram Air Hood, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch
150 amp would be pleanty, 100 is probably just the minamum # and 150 is a huge fuse.
fuses are so if the amp draws too much current for it to handle, then the fuse will blow, rather than the amp. (thats the idea I got from askin a while back anyway). So, using that rule I dont think a 150 amp would be very good. I, personally have never had a problem (I'm running a 1000 watt amp on a single 20 amp inline fuse, doesnt blow, even at full volume)
As long as the 60A fuse doesnt blow, shouldnt matter, 100A fuse is the recommended.
IF I'm wrong, someone will correct me
well i went and bought teh 150 amp fuse and ANL holder today,damn thing is friggen huge and ill ahve to relocate it tommorow as its jsut sittin on top of my alarm siren,only cost me $25CDN for all of it whihc wasnt to bad
FDP 62MM TB, FFP Performance Chip, FFP Underdrive Pully, WAI, Hi Flow Cat, 2.5" Catback, Functional Ram Air Hood, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch
That looks like 4 gauge wire. If it is you need to change that to a 125 amp fuse. 4 gauge wire will burn if more than 125 amps goes through it. The fuse on the wire is to protect the wire. The fuses on the amp are to protect the amp.
-Chris
Calvin Di Bartolo wrote:I, personally have never had a problem (I'm running a 1000 watt amp on a single 20 amp inline fuse, doesnt blow, even at full volume)
Does someone wanna tell me how his amp can make 1000w , and only draw (less than) 20amps? There is NO way that figure can be rms, unless he's running an alternator that pumps out ALOT more than 14.4V (like 40-50V)?
I know the formulas, and this isn't adding up.
Free your mind - shoot your TV.
nope. The amp is underneath my seat, and it's peak power, not RMS. I've never tested my alt, all I know is its alot better than my cavs because even at full power the lights never dim, fuses never blow. And, believe it or not, it's running on a 10g Scosche power wire from wal-mart. I can take pics if you want, the amp wont be in action as my CD deck was KIA and my sub's lead wires snapped. The amp is fine and I repaired one of my subs lead wires (its a 1000w 6 ohm ultra linear, I'm running two in parallel... or was when it worked)
I had the amp set at 1/2 gain though.
The fuse by the battery is there to protect the power cable and your car, not your amp. The amp has fuses to protect itself.
You need to worry about the sized of your power cable and not what kind of amp(s) you're running.
Generally, you should never increase the size of the fuse unless you increase the size of the cable it feeds. If the cable is rated at 100 amps and you have a 150 amp fuse when it grounds, you'll melt the cable and possibly cause your car to catch on fire.
Find out what the max current rating is for your power cable and make sure the fuse is less than that rating.
hmm well its a 4 gauge orion kit that i bought a couple years ago so im not sure what kinda amps it can handle,and my amp doesnt have a fuse on it,but i guess ill try and find a 100 or 125 fuse to replace it with
FDP 62MM TB, FFP Performance Chip, FFP Underdrive Pully, WAI, Hi Flow Cat, 2.5" Catback, Functional Ram Air Hood, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch
