i really need some help with this one cause it happens any time i have to work on my car.
the problem
every time i disconnect the battery the bypass module for my alarm/starter combo blows up
it is the compustar 2 way pager kit
i have replaced this module 4 times already and its barely been a year and a half since i got it in there (first one installed didnt even work). fortunately my alarm guy gets all this stuff under warranty so there is no cost to me but hes getting really tired of seeing me.
any help is always appreciated
Whats up people?
ok guys really needing some help here
Whats up people?
hello anyone got any ideas ? ? ?
Whats up people?
resistance isnt set correct? wut the hell is an alarm bypass anyway and why would u want to bypass an alarm lol
^^^^ the alarm bypass will bypass the factory alarm and the ignition passlock so that the car will stay running after the starter starts it otherwise it just dies
Whats up people?
ok there is a module that goes between the alarm / starter and the cars wiring so it looks like this
alarm module --> factory bypass module --> car interface
it is supposed to disable the factory passlock (which is supposed to only run the car when the correct key is used otherwise it cuts the gas)
Whats up people?
What brand/model of bypass?
I am not sure
Im in class right now so i cant go check but ill have that answer for you in a couple hours when i go for lunch
this has really got me thinking though cause its either stop working on my car (definitely not an option!!!) or find the cause / solution
as far as i can find there is no shorts in the alarm wiring, no shorts in any of my lights or stereo wiring, and i dont throw any codes so the wiring is good
my alarm shop guy said it could be because of all the lights and stereo equipment but i cant see how that stuff would cause this because i put all of that stuff on new wires straight to the battery with an inline fuse of course (dads an electritian so he checked it all out and all my connections are soddered and heat shrunk)
and i dont see how me wiring up some simple neons and replacing stereo components (all factory wiring is gone I replaced the power ground and all the speaker wire going into the deck) is gonna blow up my module
Any thoughts would be awesome Lenko (as long as it isnt stop working on my car
)
Whats up people?
ummm, is it fused? not on a big fuse for all your goodies, is it individually fused?
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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
hmmmm i have everything fused properly and i dont think the module needs to be because it is already fused at the alarm end. right ? ? ? or should i fuse both ends ? ? ?
Whats up people?
well, if its not fused individually, and you're blowing the module everytime you reconnect the battery because of a power surge, what do you think you should try?
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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
this is the brand/model of bypass kit that is in there
clicky
i will look tomorrow if i can and see if it is fused everywhere there is a direct battery connection
Whats up people?
Looking at that thing... I don't know WTF it is... but it goes everywhere EXCEPT the passlock wires... which makes absolutely no sense to me. I've never even heard of this brand, nor anyone with any module that needs to be hooked up to those wires.
Why did the shop use that particular *thing* instead of a simple Passlock bypass module, say, the DEI one? Even my "Car and Driver" universal hunk of crap I bought for $20 at Target worked perfectly every time, without issues...
^^^^^^ hmmmmm not sure why he used it just that he did
if it makes a difference i have the compustar 2wfmr remote/starter combo
what do recomend cause at this point im F#$ed the next time i want to work on my car so maybe ill try ure solution
Whats up people?
yes you still need by pass.. its not for a chip its for resistance it just tells that "a key" is in the ignition if you dont bypass it tehc ar will start then die.. im learning slowly althought i still cant get my stupid ass remote start to work for nothing
There's no chip in the key. The key is what tells the PassLock if it can start the car or not. There is a certain amount of resistance in the key, and if a key of the wrong resistance is used, the car is dead for like 10-15 minutes.
For some stupid gh3y a$$ reason, my PassLock wouldn't let me start the car yesterday after I was working most of the day on gutting it. I had the Acc on for the radio, and when I tried to start it so I could get outta the garage, the PassLock kept disabling my f'n car
I was using my regular, every-day key, not some other one. So then I charged the battery just in case (3 hours of radio w/o running the engine ain't too great), and tried my spare key after awhile, and it started up. Then after I got back to work from lunch today, I tried my regular key again, and of course it worked just like normal!
OK, end post-jacking.
Javis, just ask the installer to replace it w/ a different unit altogether, and make sure there's a fuse on the power wire of the by-pass just in case.
^^^^^^^^^^^^ will do
i think i have a solution though just pull unhook the module everytime i work on it so its not connected to the battery and definitely fuse
would have checked the fusing but ive had a really heavy course load lately and dont want to get into the car again till i have a couple days i can devote to painting stuff
Whats up people?
You could dis-connect just the unit, but that'd be a pain IMO. When you're futzing around w/ it you should throw an in-line on it just to be sure that it has it's own fuse, than if you want extra insurance when hooking your battery back up you just pull the fuse out and the unit will be isolated.
Better just to unhook the module. Think about it. If it draws so much aperage everytime he connects the battery what would a fuse do? Nothing. He will just be spending money on fuses. It's cheaper to just unplug the module form both ends before disconnecting the battery. Then reconnect the battery, then the module.
I'm saying that when he plans on working on the car, he would pull out the fuse for *extra protection* ... so how would the fuse be blown when he hooks the battery back up if it's sitting on a seat/table/etc??
Here's a better idea... just leave the battery connected.
The only time I ever disconnect my battery is when it's in the way.... ie... removing the motor.
I don't even disable the airbags anymore.
^^^^^^ thanks lenko if you dont pull it anymore im not gonna either
all I have to do to disconnect the module is reach under the dash and unclip it like you would the power lock connector on the door panel
Whats up people?
if you dont care about the THEFT LIGHT on the dash coming on start the car.. cut the yellow passloc wire turn the car off and its disabled.. cheapest way to bypass it
