so on my way to work one day my subs jsut completely turned off,so i folded down the rear seat and the amp was still on and was NOT in protect mod,checked the connenctions from amp-subs and that was good,i measured the ohms on the 2 subs and it read 2.3 i believe,i never opened up the box to check connections as it seems everything is hooked up proper,so i thought maybe my RCAs where screwed,bought new 1s and it still didnt work,tryed switching the RCA cables to rear/front/sub preouts on hte deck and that did nothing either
anyone have any suggestions?
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I had the same problem with a pyramid amp that I used to have. The output channels in the amp went, I did not feel like trying to find the problem so just replaced the amp. That is my experience with the problem you are having. It could be something else but I am not sure. Perhaps, someone else will have other ideas or suggestions, otherwise time for a new amp or a repair on that one.
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Mike Hecimovic wrote:so on my way to work one day my subs jsut completely turned off,so i folded down the rear seat and the amp was still on and was NOT in protect mod,checked the connenctions from amp-subs and that was good,i measured the ohms on the 2 subs and it read 2.3 i believe,i never opened up the box to check connections as it seems everything is hooked up proper,so i thought maybe my RCAs where screwed,bought new 1s and it still didnt work,tryed switching the RCA cables to rear/front/sub preouts on hte deck and that did nothing either
anyone have any suggestions?
OK this is what you do get a 9volt battery a new battery it works better your going to test the subs make sure the wires are hooked to the subs then take the 9volt battery and hold the negative to the negative to the battery then tap on the positive if the subwoofer moves or pops the subwoofer is good then your problem is in the amp let me know if that works or helps or you can email me at jlcaudio1@neo.rr.com i hope that helps
^^^Umm, why?
It sounds like he already tested the resistance on the VC's at 2.3ohms.. Even if that was testing from the speaker wire terminals, if the VC was blown there'd be no resistance at all..
Check your ground to the hifonics amp.. I've had a weird situation where my amp had a bad ground and was grounding itself through the RCA's, still had the power light on but there was no output at all.
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ill check the ground and see if it came loose maybe,i might jsut unscrew the subs and double check everything,only thing htat sucks is i cant remove the box from my car
lol ill let u guys know how it goes
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ok so i took a closer look at it....i disconnected the speaker wires form the amp and tapped it on a 9volt battery and subs moved/made noise,also if i disconnected my remote bass knob thing the subs would make a little noise aswell,my ground is good and with teh car/acc off i was gettin 12.55 volts to the amp(forgot to check wiht car on)
so i have 3 guesses:
1. i bought a defective pair of RCAs
2. i fried the 3 outputs on my Alpine Deck(which i cant see happening as i only use the sub out)
3. the RCA input on my amp is fried
anyonw know if i can check the deck preouts with a volt meter or somehitng to see if there sending a signal?
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ok i dont know if you want to do this or not but does your amp have a high imput as well
only RCAs i believe,mono amps wouldnt come wiht a high input i dont think
its a hifonics BX1000D amp and Alpine CDA-7892 headunit if anyone was curious
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so i took the amp out and opened up the back plate,only thing i noticed was that a zip-tie has broke that holds down 1 of those bronze things in the middle of the amp lol(dont know what there called) anyways could that be my problem?perhaps i should take the board out and take a look at the underside?
here u can see the zip-tie broken and the bronze thing im talkin about
and the RCA input(the white hting on hte left)
and jsut a overal view of it
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ok this is what i would do just go and buy a cheap pair of RCAs and see if that works that would be the next cheapest thing to do also buy a 3 foot pair as well and ill tell you why after you try buying another pair of RCAs for your amp
If you live in London Ontario (Canada) then might I suggest you drop the amp off @ sounder light in Orangeville Ontario if you have no warrenty and you need it fixed up. They had my friends collosus fixed up in a hour after it had a transitor melt itself off its own suadering (mind my spelling). They ended up only charging him for the hours labor = 40 $. If they need parts etc Then you would be looking @ a longer wait. That is only if you feel the amp is worth the repair.
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Jerry cox wrote:ok this is what i would do just go and buy a cheap pair of RCAs and see if that works that would be the next cheapest thing to do also buy a 3 foot pair as well and ill tell you why after you try buying another pair of RCAs for your amp
ill try another pair of RCAs,but why hte 3ft 1?i dont wanna waste my cash if i dont have too lol
also i cant take teh board off cause i need to get a T-10 bit(i didnt even know they went that small) to remove the covers and whatnot
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i tried a 2nd set of RCAs and the subs work but its NOWHERE near waht they used to sound like,they barely hit at all,anyone know why?
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anyone??
the subs work but it seems like there only gettin like a 100watts,they barely even move,is it possibly that my amp is @!#$?or maybe my RCA preouts have a VERY weak signal?
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well make sure all your settings are up and i dont know about the RCAs you got if there good or cheap but also that might be a problem as well but 1st check your settings on you deck
its a alpine CDA-7892 and the sub is turned on and at 15+,amp is up to about 3/4s aswell and they barely move,i jsut dont get it i mgiht try and grab a amp off a friend and see if its any different
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those bronze things are inductive coils. I don't think they would have anything to do with your prob though...it actually looks like that zip tie was broken for a long time maybe at the factory. If you broke it I would expect it to be burnt off...if too much amperage passes through a coil it will get really hot. This looks to be a MOSFET amp...and therefore I agree with Alphawolf. you cooked an output stage by the sound of it. if you did you have to replace one or more of those black chips (the 8 pin ones more than likely) on the board. they are hard to troubleshoot the only way to do it properly is remove them from the board and test them in a test circuit. this could cost as much as a new amp. or could cost you as little as one hour labour and the cost of the part....$1.00 to like $30. its your call...I'd at least have it looked at....but I am curious and I could do it my self.
well ive changed a couple mosfet transistors before but i knew which 1s where bad cause it was all bl;ack and burnt to @!#$ lol but i removed the covers to hte transistors and they looked fine but ill have to doulbe check
also i find this is weird,while driving if i hit a bump or gave it some gas and made the car jolt the subs would sometimes kick in for a second but then turn right back off again
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you have a ground problem you might think you dont but if it kicks on then off you have a ground problem check your grounds
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like jerry said, even if you think it's having a good contact, it really may not be. if the metal's painted, i'd imagine you already sanded it off, if it's gloss coated, make sure you sanded it down to bare metal, and use as much surface area for the ground cable as you can, it may not have enough contact right now.
What size is the ground wire for the amp? It sounds like you burned up the outputs, but if the ground is too small you'll do it again when everyone tells you to get a new amp. My advice is to replace the entire stereo. J/k Have the amp looked at by a qualified tech if you want to keep it, or just replace it. Amps are too cheap now to try and fix them, unless you compete and want them to match and stuff like that.
You may have also burnt a board trace. Flip the board over and look for burnt traces.
if its jumping...this could also be your prob. I have also blown the connection to my fuse before. Thought I screwed my amp for a sec. Than I checked my fuse and one of the leads fell out. LOL sometimes its the simple stuff that you forget....I felt really dumb.
i double check the grounds again,but i went down to bare metal and ive been runnin 4guage wire for teh past 3 years in my car wiht no problems,could the ground form hte deck be casuing anyhting?cause my deck dims like crazy when no toher lights dim,but i ahve all my connections on the deck soldiered and teh ground on the deck is behind the dash on a peaice of medal
also someone told me this
"hey, i know uve probably checked your fuse, but replace it anyways. The fuses sometimes break at the end covered by the brass or gold plated end.
everyone just looks at the fuse, and thinks its ok.
you said its getting some power, cuz it may still be allowing a small amount of current thru, which is why ur amp is still on, and reading 12 volts, but not enough current to play music."
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so i took the board out adn the only ting i noticed was taht there was no electrical grease underneath the mosfet transistors,everything else looked fine and there where no burn marks or any smell coming from the amp,i have a feelin it might be my decks preouts
also i checked the ground for the amp with my ohm meter and it read 1.5ohms which i beleive is normal?
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1.5 ohms is perfect with 4 gauge.
I have just about exhausted my theories. Unless I had it here I can't really tell you anymore.
I'd say try it on someone elses subs...or your subs on someones amp..just to prove what is actually gone. you could also check your amp outputs by switching to ac on your meter and looking for signals. they will be very small (mV)...but they will be there. Also you can check all the diodes on the board. If I were you I would have it checked by a Qualified tech and see what they say after you check check and make sure it is your amp. I blew a sub before and it still read 4 ohms. Your just reading the resistance of the V/C...an inductive coil. Unless you burnt the coil off, its resistance may not change.
Also another stupid suggestion...I've overlooked this before...check the fuses in the side of the amp.
