I have done some research on upgrading the big three, and have a couple of questions.
1. I am using 8 Gauge wire for power and ground, should I use 8 gauge, or 4 gauge for the big three......I figure I should use 4 gauge, because it is bigger than what is stock on the car.
2. Should I put a fuse inline on the wire from the battery to the amp? If so, what size fuse should I put?
3. Should I ground to the engine block, or the chassis.....I think the chassis would be better, because I have stock motor mounts and they are made of rubber.
Um your alittle confused.
1) 8 gauge is fine, Some people have had problems with the 4-2-1-0 Guages.
2) ~
A] The should always be a fuze between the batt and amp, and it depends on what your pulling.
B] If your talking about the alternator, makesure the battery is disconnected before replacing the wire, and a Fusible link is need. It cost about $1.25 at a local auto store. Look for the caltram display.
3) You should ground to the chassis, and block. Your Stock battery Grounds to the tray underneith which is part of the chassis, and ground to the Tranny as well farther down.
“Facts are meaningless. You could use facts to prove anything that’s even remotely true."
Sorry for my misspellings, It has been a long day.
“Facts are meaningless. You could use facts to prove anything that’s even remotely true."
thanks for the quick response........just to confirm
1. Wire going from Battery to Alternator, with a fuse......
2. Wire going from Battery to Chassis
3. Wire going from Battery to Transmission
4. Wire going from Alternator to Chassis
And I can use 8 Gauge wire.
8 gage is bigger then stock, your are correct, however I would suggest 4.
For the ALT/BATT wire you do not "NEED" a fuse, although some people use them. There is not one on the stock wire. Just remember our alternators are 105 AMPs (unless you have an aftermarket one) so make sure you use a big enough fuse. I recomend 125-150 AMP.
Also, there is no reason to remove the stock wire, unless you really want to. It can be a PITA to try to get it out. Just make sure you still keep it connected because it will still be hot so you dont want it flopping around.
You're reading my line-break, you are a loser. Lurch <3's the c**k.
I wasn't planning on removing the stock wiring.......I guess I will try to find a fuse and fuse holder for the battery to alternator wire.
neo, they dont have a factory fuse, they have a fuseable link, and yes you should fuse the upgraded wire, why would u not? i personaly think it would be retarded not to
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
i had lots of toys when i was young.slinky,etc.but once i found my penis,that was all she wrote
but why would you need to... especially if you are on a tight budget? since there is no fuse on stock, why would you need one once you upgraded? even my upgraded alt can't do anything with stock wires and a stock battery to hurt my system, why would it do it once they are upgraded?
THERE IS A FUSEABLE LINK ON THE STOCK WIRING.
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
i had lots of toys when i was young.slinky,etc.but once i found my penis,that was all she wrote
1Bad02Cav wrote:THERE IS A FUSEABLE LINK ON THE STOCK WIRING.
and the difference between "fuseABLE" and a fuse is what?
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nothing and thats the point im trying to make, hes saying run all the wires with absolutely no fuse anywhere
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
i had lots of toys when i was young.slinky,etc.but once i found my penis,that was all she wrote
1Bad02Cav wrote:nothing and thats the point im trying to make, hes saying run all the wires with absolutely no fuse anywhere
ok..so the stock wire has a fuse? where is it?
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Lets put it this way....If the stock power wire where to ground out and not just burn itself in half (most likely thing to happen), it would end up blowing a fuesable link or regular fuse in the system somewhere. Cars have a fusable link wired to the entire electrical system (I know because I blew it once, and the whole car shut down - took for ever to figure it out), so everything in a car is "fused" some how, even if it's not actually inline with a certain wire.
my understanding is that there is either a fuseable link on that wire, not noticeable like a fuse, or it goes to a fuse in the fuse box by the battery, either way i KNOW there is something
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
i had lots of toys when i was young.slinky,etc.but once i found my penis,that was all she wrote
The stock fusible link is right by the starter(on an 04 ECO)..
I used 1/0awg, with a ANL fuse.
"If life throws you a curve, pop the clutch and drift it!"
A fusable link is an iline fuse thingie. Its a little S shaped piece of wire. If for some reason a extra heavy charge of power comes from the alt, the link breaks prevent damage to the bettery and inturn the Big fuses. That go to the comp, fan, And such.
“Facts are meaningless. You could use facts to prove anything that’s even remotely true."
ok...i'm under my car today..pics to come.
but for now...i'll tell ya the stock wiring runs from the battery...to the starter...then to the alternator.
pics to come...stay tuned.
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ok...here we go. this is a 2003 2.2L ecotec
Here you see the stock wiring at the battery. two wires, one going to the fuse box, and the other to the starter. (starter wire is outlined in RED)
From the battery it runs to the starter...
Here it is right before it stops at the starter..
Now you see the connection at the starter. simply a bolt on a bracket. red outline is from the battery...the new YELLOW outline is going to the alternator. (so far so good..it's a solid run)
I disconnected the stock wire just for this purpose. the stock wire is outlined in YELLOW...while my upgraded wire is outlined in RED. (the upgraded wire runs directly to the battery. )
Also..the stock wire does not have to be hooked up for the car to operate normally. (meaning the alternator does not have to be connected to the starter)
so in conclusion..i ask again. where is a fuse "ABLE" link?? (the word fusable sounds like it's optional, lol)
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i guess i could have missed it? the wire from the alt to the starter is a solid run...
i'm not trying to agrue..or whatever. just throwing the info out there. I fused my wire anyway...just trying to clear this up for those asking.
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Open the Split loom from the starter to the batt. Its in there.
Its been on everycar i have, its on all my parents cars, and all my friends cars.
“Facts are meaningless. You could use facts to prove anything that’s even remotely true."
Lawnmowerracer wrote:Open the Split loom from the starter to the batt. Its in there.
Its been on everycar i have, its on all my parents cars, and all my friends cars.
so that would mean the wire from the starter to the alternator does not have one...correct? or are you saying there are two?
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I got cha wysiwyg. I'll get some pics.. I believe it said fusible link right on it.. It's noticably thicker also..
"If life throws you a curve, pop the clutch and drift it!"
if you search fusible link in google you will come across sites that have this definition:
Description: The traditional fusible link is a short section of wire that has a smaller diameter than the rest of the circuit. When current flow in the circuit exceeds that of the fusible link, the wire melts and interrupts the circuit. This type of fusible link is becoming quickly obsolete, as many carmakers have opted for newer technologies such as the cartridge style fuse element or maxi fuse. When a fuse link “blows”, it must be replaced.
Purpose: Fusible links act as high-current fuses by protecting their circuits from excessive current draw. The capacity of fusible links is usually 30 amps or more-somewhat higher than that of standard fuses. When a fusible link blows, it means that its current-carrying capacity was exceeded and the heat across the link’s conductor caused the link to melt and open the circuit.
Installation and function of a Fusible Link is similar to the “cartridge type,” in-line fuse. But the Fusible Link does not deteriorate or have meltdown problems with constant use in heavy-duty systems, as the cartridge type fuse is famous for. (Chevy began installing Fusible Link wires in the main-power circuits with ’66 models, and of those old cars that are still in use, most of the original Fusible Link wires are still in place. If a Fusible Link burned out then it saved the car!)
Examples of circuits where the Fusible Link wire will be the most reliable short-circuit protection are; *the main power wire to the dash area, *the alternator-to-battery “charging wire,” *power-up wire to electric radiator fans, and other systems where the amount of current flow is a large amount for long periods of time.
that should answer anyones questions about them... it does not mean that the link can be fused, fusible links are a type of fusing method...
Your Alternator couldnt really put out more then 105 Amps anyways. Not to mention all the regulators are built-in to the Alternator, so should a problem occur it would fry itself and wuit working before anything bad would happen anyways. At least the way I see it.
And a fuse, or fusable link, only "blows" from current, not voltage. For your charging system, there is no such thing as "too much current".
You're reading my line-break, you are a loser. Lurch <3's the c**k.
